Sunsetpar wrote:
Hi friends. I enjoy my daily dose of Ugly Hedgehog, and value the expertise, opinions, and humor I find here. I have a dilemma, and would appreciate your thoughts. Bottom line...am I too old (age 70) to learn, use, and benefit from Lightroom? Put another way, should I shoot RAW + JPEG or just JPEG on my upcoming (mid-August 2023) trip to Brazil to shoot wildlife? A little background-- following a less than stellar photography performance on a trip to Costa Rica this past February, I vowed to improve my skills, and equipment, in an attempt to better deal with low-light (and other light challenges) photography in the wild. To this end, I acquired a Nikon D500 and a 500mm prime lens (the cheap one!) and have been practicing every day to shoot in manual mode, especially in low light. I feel that I am making progress, so I started looking ahead to my trip to Brazil, and the nuts and bolts of shooting and processing the photos I anticipate taking. As I sit here this morning, I am overwhelmed at the prospect of learning Lightroom (or some other PP program) prior to my trip, and am starting to question whether I should even try. After several hours of research (including in the post-processing forum) my mind is boggled. Heck, I am not even sure if I should try to use the Classic version or the cloud version. Right now my gut feeling is that JPEG images are more than sufficient for my needs (I have a website/blog that I created and maintain for my grandchildren and other friends who are interested in archaeology and birds), and I should devote my time to just taking the best JPEG images that I can at point of capture. I feel that I still have most of my wits about me, but I find myself doubting that I have sufficient gray matter to shoot and process RAW. What do you think this old man should do? (PS- attached is a "practice" photo I took a few days ago at a local park on a cloudy day)
Hi friends. I enjoy my daily dose of Ugly Hedgeho... (
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First of all, that's a wonderful shot! There isn't a lot that can be done to improve it. In other words, you really "nailed" it.
However, like ANY image, there is ALWAYS something that a little post-processing can add. In this case, selective sharpening and a little increased contrast on the bird really makes it pop. Some might also play around with lightening the background slightly or adding a mild vignette in the corners. These are the sort of things that are done "to taste".
Any post-processing is best done working on a RAW image. This is because the RAW has the full data captured initially and the maximum bit depth. Interpolated as 16 bit by the post-processing software, working from a RAW file will make for smoother transitions, avoiding possible "banding" that can occur when JPEGs are post-processed. Your sample image is a poor example for this, simply because it doesn't need much adjustment! But, be honest... how often do you achieve near perfect exposures like this? Especially shooting wildlife where circumstances can change rapidly... the subjects quickly appear or move from one lighting condition to another. Even shooting RAW with as much care as possible, there can be shots that are just unusable. But when shooting JPEGs and not doing any post-processing, I would be that "keepers" are pretty far and few between!
Just to illustrate the difference between RAW and JPEG, do a little experiment. Set your camera to shoot both RAW and JPEG. Take a few shots that way. Download them to your computer and then inspect the file properties. See how the RAW file is larger? That's because a lot of data was "thrown away" when the camera made the JPEG. There is no getting that back. It's gone.
Another comparison... a JPEG is an 8 bit file. This means that the 0s and 1s that make up individual colors comprise 2 x 2 x 2 x 2 x 2 x 2 x 2 x 2 or 256 tonalities per color channel. There are three color channels (red, blue, green) and to make an image tonalities from each channel can be mixed with tonalities from the others. 256 x 256 x 256 equals more than 16.7 million possible. That's A LOT of possible colors, isn't it?
However, 16 bit has 65,536 tonalities per color channel (2 to the 16th power). 65,536 x 65,536 x 65,536 gives a 16 bit file a palette of 281
trillion possible colors! Precise color is MUCH more possible and gradations can be MUCH smoother with roughly 16,800 times as many colors to work with!
Note: Most digital don't actually shoot 16 bit RAW files... Most shoot 14 bit or 12 bit (or in some cases can be set to shoot one or the other). Don't worry about it. These files are "interpolated" as 16 bit by any image editing software.
You may not be aware... You're actually already shooting RAW files. In fact, every digital camera initially takes a RAW shot. When you set the camera to RAW... it simply saves the entire file. When you set the camera to JPEG, it quickly post-processes that "16 bit" RAW according to the settings of the camera, saving what it thinks is needed and throwing away the rest. Again, the settings of your camera... contrast, saturation, sharpening, white balance (color temp and tint), etc.... are all applied to the JPEG. Those
are not applied to the RAW file, though they are recorded along with it for later use, if wanted.
Your camera probably came with some RAW conversion/post-processing software. Camera makers' own proprietary software usually has an "as shot" conversion option, where the software will make a JPEG from a RAW file
EXACTLY the same way the camera would have done. In other words, so long as you have your camera maker's RAW conversion software, you can ALWAYS make a JPEG from it with a single click that will be at least as good as if you had set the camera to JPEG. However, since you still have the RAW file, you also have option of changing many of the settings that were recorded by the camera. The biggest of these is probably the white balance. Have you ever set it incorrectly and had your JPEGs end up with a strange tint? If you had shot RAW you can easily correct the white balance. You also have a lot more latitude to brighten up a dark image or lighten one that's over-exposed.
3rd party RAW conversion software like Lightroom doesn't have that "as shot" option, but Lightroom and most of them do have a "one click" that can be used to get pretty close. Lightroom and other, similar 3rd party software often is a lot faster and has many more features than the camera maker's software. For example, Lightroom has a ton of organization tools. It also "meshes" very well with Photoshop for more intensive image editing, when needed.
It's up to you, whether to shoot RAW or JPEG, as well as whether to post-process your images or not. Personally I think EVERY image needs some post-processing. Sometimes it's very little. Other times it's a lot. I tend to post-process for a realistic look and often that means very subtle adjustments.
If you want to give it a try, you might consider Adobe Photoshop "Elements" instead of Lightroom. Elements can do a lot and, like Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop, is well supported. Elements is NOT a subscription. It's a perpetual license and costs about $100 (if you also shoot videos, Premiere Elements can be bought in bundle with Photoshop Elements for $150... saving $50).
Lightroom is good, though. I use it along with Photoshop. Mine are older versions of it, though. Today's subscription versions have some new features I'm not familiar with.
I hope you don't mind, to illustrate what I mean by subtle post-processing I took your image into Photoshop did some very selective adjustments of contrast, saturation and sharpening, then slightly lightened the background. See what you think, below. Especially look at the bird's eye, bill and legs detail. At higher magnifications there is a little noise showing up, but by limiting the sharpening to the bird that will be hidden in the feather textures in any print that were made from this image. Again, this image is simply "too good"... it doesn't need much in the way of post-processing!