User ID

But honesty and accuracy are not the same thing. The only *displayed* f/stops that are trustworthy are at minimum and maximum FLs.

Orphoto Loc: Oregon

Grahame. You are correct. But does it get messed up as you zoom in aperture priority? Im not sure.

Grahame Loc: Fiji

I'm not sure either as it's something I have never bothered to investigate. My awareness of the difference between the apertures indicated (reading viewed) between Nikon and Canon came about in discussions regarding macro magnifications and diffraction some years ago.

Grahame Loc: Fiji

Accuracy is a different ball-game. A 1 stop readout inaccuracy between two lenses of the same manufacturer seems a bit excessive, but always possible.

Hence, the best test is a controlled one using the same lens, same settings on both cameras. Then investigate any differences if found, checking Exif as well.

RKL349 Loc: Connecticut

Just tossing something out here but I am quite the novice compared to others on this site. The Z6II has in body image stabilization and the Z50 does not. Could that have any effect on how the camera interprets the information?

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

No.

jcwall396 Loc: Roswell, GA

Hey guys - all GREAT responses, thanks so much for the ideas and suggestions. I'm working on several of the suggestions this morning to see if I can pinpoint any differences, specifically using the same lens on both cameras in a more controlled environment (shooting a blank wall). I'm also going to take a look at the fine tuning of exposure (I've never used it before). I'll post any results today....

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

Unedited JPEGs will be needed, with original EXIF in-tact, and files stored for download.

jcwall396 Loc: Roswell, GA

Just finished a quick test using the same lenses on both cameras. I tested the Z24-70mm as well as the Z14-30mm inside my house shooting a desk (I don't really have a good blank way I can use). And you guys were spot on - the results were IDENTICAL. I tested in Aperture priority, f/8.0, ISO 100, and shutter speed was the same using both cameras. I then set Auto ISO up to 2500 and again, results were IDENTICAL - shutter speed was the same using both cameras. So everything is working perfectly, it was just a difference in the lenses between the 24-70mm f/2.8 and the 16-50mm kit lens.

As lamiaceae pointed out, he has many lenses and they can each be a little different, as can the cameras. So I need to learn the best settings for each camera and lens combination.

Really appreciate the input here!

lamiaceae Loc: San Luis Obispo County, CA

Great you got it figured out and you are satisfied. We probably all learned a little by thinking about your question.

R.G. Loc: Scotland

The answer is to get more control over the shutter speed. Instead of shooting in A mode, my suggestion is to shoot in M+AutoISO mode, which both of your cameras should be capable of. Despite the fact that you're using M mode, the modus operandi couldn't be much simpler, as follows:-

Assess the scene to determine if exposure compensation (EC) is needed, and if so, dial it in.

Choose a suitable focus point and aperture combination that will give you the DOF coverage that you want. Dial in the aperture value.

That's the trickiest bits dealt with. Now all you need to do is play off shutter speed and ISO against each other.

Just watch out for ISO bottoming out - the camera probably won't warn you when that happens (none of my Nikons do). My safeguard is to aim for a value just above native ISO (probably 100) and be aware when you're hitting the bottom value of ISO. When you're using M+AutoISO you'll see ISO change automatically as you change the shutter speed. If your ISO has bottomed out you won't see it change as you adjust the shutter speed. A static ISO is easy to spot if you're looking out for it. If that happens and you carry on dialling in a slower and slower shutter speed you'll get severe overexposure - but the camera won't warn you it's happening.

Assessing the scene to determine if EC is needed is something you'll have to learn. The need for EC depends on the metering mode that you're using. My recommendation is to get used to matrix metering and learn to spot when it's likely to be caught out - e.g. if the scene is predominantly dark but there are small highlights that you don't want blown. Alternatively the scene may be predominantly bright but you don't want the shadows crushed - snow on a bright day will create that situation. The most common scenario between those two is that you'll be looking to save vulnerable highlights, in which case you'll need a negative value of EC.

To arrive quickly at an optimum set of exposure settings just remember that you're looking for the widest aperture that still gives you the DOF coverage that you want (i.e. not too wide) and the slowest shutter speed that will still be fast enough to prevent motion blur or camera shake.

If shutter speed is not critical (e.g. tripod mounted camera and static subject/s) you have the luxury of being able to choose your ISO, in which case your best choice is the native value - typically (but not always) 100. ISO is the most compromisable setting but as a general rule you don't want it to be any higher than it needs to be.

jcwall396 Loc: Roswell, GA

All good points, thanks! I do want to start shooting more in Manual mode to have more control over the camera, so your comments are very timely.

R.G. Loc: Scotland

PHRubin Loc: Nashville TN USA

Mystery solved!

BebuLamar

So the 2 lenses have their t/stop difference of about 1/2 stop. Lenses rarely have the t/stop faster than the f/stop so do you have any filter on the 24-70 lens? It seems rather exessive light loss on such an expensive lens,