Chessysailor Loc: Southport, NC

I was recently asked to take some photos at a high-school baseball game. Starting at 7 PM, shooting at 1/1000th to capture some action initial shots were satisfactory. It quickly became apparent that this wasn't going to do the trick. Increased the ASA to 800 and slowed the speed to 1/500. By 8:00 PM (sunset was at 8:30 overcast sky) I am out of gas. I can only take pictures of the team mascot, who was stuffed and didn't move. The field was lit but not like Yankee Stadium. Pictures were unsat. Grainy. Any suggestions for action photos in low light?

therwol Loc: USA

Post some pictures, upload the originals so we can see the EXIF data. I don't know what camera you're using, but modern cameras have some headroom above ISO 800 without much degradation of image quality. 1/500 should be fine for basketball, but perhaps you've run out of apertures in your lens to make for proper exposure at ISO 800 in low light.

ricardo00

You don't say what camera or lens you are using? First, you can use higher ISO and noise suppression software. Second, you can use faster lenses. And third, one can shoot video, since video is shot at lower shutter speeds and the motion blur becomes less visible since one is shooting sequences of events. Or focus on less rapid action and shoot slower?
I run into this when out photographing owls. Below is a photo of a barn owl shot at ISO 22,800 (it was shot almost in the dark, about 9:15PM)!

(Download)

Chessysailor Loc: Southport, NC

Camera: Canon EOS Rebel XTi; Lens: Canon 18-55mm 3.5 and Canon EF 75-300mm 4-5.6.

ricardo00

You won't like this solution, but a f/2.8 lens will let in 4 times the light of a f/5.6 lens. So get a 70-200mm f/2.8? Probably can find used ones for not that much? Looks like it can go higher in ISO so use Topaz DeNoise?

Gilkar

1. Most cameras these days can produce good results at high ISO's. I shot a lacrosse game between 7:30 and 8:30 on Wednesday in pouring rain and no artificial lighting. My D850 has a high range ISO option. I shot at H2 and H3 with noise smoothing enabled. I got acceptable results with the shots were about 1/3 to 1 stop underexposed. Easily corrected in Lightroom. Underexposure is more easy to correct than overexposure, usually.
Do not be afraid to push your camera to its limits. If you don't like the result you can always delete the image.
2. There is currently a thread being discussed on this forum about this very subject. You can likely get several tips and more opinions there. Take time to read through it.
3. What camera? My more up to date mirrorless Z6's do a better job in low light than any camera I have owned to date. I currently have to shoot with the FTZ adapter in order to use my existing lenses, (the price for new glass at this juncture is quite high), but I will be replacing them as more manufacturers jump onto the bandwagon and, (hopefully), prices start to drop. When that happens I will stop using the 850, buy the new glass, and go completely mirrorless.
4. I would not worry about the graininess of the resulting images. As creators we look for perfection. My clients are happy to see themselves in action and don't mind the graininess.

ricardo00

Maybe you can post a link to this thread? (a quick search didn't find it)

ELNikkor

My friend shot night soccer with a Canon 70D and a 70-200 2.8 zoom. His photos were excellent! I shot hockey at ISO 3200 f4 1/500sec and the photos also turned out fine.

JRiepe Loc: Southern Illinois

👍👍👍 A faster lens is needed for shooting sports especially in low light.

therwol Loc: USA

ISO on this camera only goes to 1600. Better than 800 for low light, but probably inadequate for the lenses you have. People often say that you should invest in lenses before investing in a new camera, but in your case, if you're going to take pictures like this on a regular basis, you should really look into buying a new camera with much higher ISO capability.

R.G. Loc: Scotland

https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-745497-1.html

Not exactly the same, but similar.

The OP's camera and lenses are a long way from being optimal for low light, fast action. The usual recommendations would be to use a recent full frame camera and a fast prime or primes. That and learn how to process noisy images. Use continuous shutter release and try to time the shots to capture the "decisive moment" of the action. Having a selection of shots to choose from will help with that plus any motion blur will be less in some than in others. And make sure you're shooting the well lit side of the subjects rather than their shadow side.

picsman Loc: Scotland

I shoot mountain bike races sometimes in woods and use a Nikon D780 and f4 lens with ISO up to 3200. Yes it is grainy but using DXO really removes the noise. Normally I don't even do that and just process in Capture One instead. It does not always work if the woods are very dark but generally it works fine.

rcarol

Go to Jarid Polin's web site and sign up. He will then allow you to download his electronic book on photographing in low light.

John Matthews Loc: Wasilla, Alaska

Normally the answer would be to a get a lens with a larger aperture however your camera sensor technology is 16 years old.
This is the rare time upgrading to a new camera body really can make a huge difference in the image quality for your shooting situation.

wireloose

The beauty of having a 16 year old camera is that one 5 years old will be a huge upgrade. Look on KEH and MPB, you might be surprised what you can get for relatively little money, eg a T6 is around $200, and a lot more options if you have more to spend.