CO

You mentioned that you need to shoot from a distance. The difference between the SB-700 and SB-5000 may not be enough to make a significant difference. You may have to go with a strobe. I have two Paul C. Buff DB-800 strobes. Paul C. Buff also makes their Vagabond portable power supply. I have used it before. I have the strobe on a light stand and the Vagabond portable power attached to the light stand. I trigger the strobe with PocketWizard radios. You can use a wide variety of light modifiers.

Paul C. Buff Vagabond portable power supply


CSXCV Transceiver


CST3 Trigger Transmitter

PHRubin Loc: Nashville TN USA

I was going to suggest Godox but you beat me to it.

cjc2 Loc: Hellertown PA

I have and use the SB700, SB900 and SB5000. They rise in price and power in that order. Here, in the USA, an SB5000 is $ 600. The SB 910 is the replacement for the SB900 as the SB900 is very prone to overheating, For a big hall, I would be using my Elinchrom Ones, which are more powerful, and more expensive. In that situation you would have only a smallish device to control the lights in your hot shoe. There are many more, less expensive brands of the latter, but it sounds like you may be ready for Off Camera Flash (OCF). Best of luck.

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

Specificslly the AD200 for off-camera use.
Only slightly bigger than a big speedlight and 1.5 stops more power..

https://godox.eu/product/godox-ad200/

I love mine.
Portable, versatile. Li-Ion battery lasts forever.Get the accessory reflector for the bare-bulb that comes with it. You’ll need a transmitter for your specific camera brand. The flash works with all the major camera makers.

Nicholas J DeSciose

He’s a higher ISO There isn’t any noise at 800 or even 1200. Another option is to buy a real off-camera flash

cjc2 Loc: Hellertown PA

Please use "Quote Reply" so we know who you're responding to. This makes absolutely no sense without that! Best of luck.

Arca

SW2002

Are you familiar with the line of products known as 'MadMod'? They offer many flash attachments and I have several of them, one of which is named, 'MagMod MagBeam Wildlife Kit'. This attaches to the front of the flash via magnets in a housing (which is included in the kit). Depending on how far you pull the 'snoot' the telephoto lens magnifies your flash 2-3 stops. This would give you the additional 'reach' you desire without spending $$$ on a new flash. This product alternatively allows you to decrease the ISO for lower noise and increase the shutter speed if that is important to you. The flash pattern does become more focused or smaller however, and that is something to keep in mind. This kit now sells for $145.00 USD and you can probably find a better price if you look for it.

I take many photographs at 'Rotary' meetings and conferences and use the 'MagMod' diffuser exclusively, as one never knows if the venue has high ceilings or whether the ceilings are white or black or somewhere in between. Last week, the venue was a distillery and the ceiling was black industrial looking and about 20 feet high. Bounce flash off of the ceiling would be impossible. The walls were not useful for bounce flash either, as they were lined with many very large barrels, not a flat wall of any color. Some events are held outdoors and obviously there is nothing to bounce flash off of. Direct flash with a diffuser is the only way I know of to make good photographs in such an environment. The products are not cheap but they are quality made. I have used my 'MagMod' diffuser for these types of events, for approximately four years now. There is virtually no signs of wear. BTW I do not work for 'MagMod' but am very happy with their products. Maybe this product would work for you.

Just in case you want to know, my current camera is a bridge camera, 'Lumix FZ1000' with both the 'Lumix DMW-FL 360L' and 'Lumix DMW-FL 580L' flash units.

Arca

Bridges Loc: Memphis, Charleston SC, now Nazareth PA

Just a side note: When taking shots in a dimly lit hall or church, or any other venue where there is low light, you should shoot at a very low shutter speed. I will often shoot at 1/15 or 1/25 of a second. This allows a small amount of ambient light to give a little depth of field. If you shoot to the exclusion of any ambient light your photos will look like the subjects are cut out and pasted on a black background. Do not worry about movement since the flash will freeze your subjects in place.

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

I always use multiple flashes whenever possible, even at events. The operative words here are "whenever possible"! If it is a planned shoot lie a weddg reception or a sports event in specific venue space, either an assist is required to mad the off can operate the light(s) or the need to be strategically placed on light stands. The assistant must be well trained and familiarized with your lighting requre as to position, height angle etc.

Suppose it is an on-the-fly kind of shoot that requires fast responses to situations and there is no assistance or possibility of settg up lights. In that case, the photographer, armed with a single on-camer flash, has to be able to improvise to create effective lightg.

With multiple lighing in play, it is possible to create images that have more modelling, dimensionality, and the ability to defec the effect of the inverse square law. Direct on-camera flas can result in overexposed foregrounds, underexposed (black hole) backgrounds, flat light and essentially unnatural lightg aesthetics. A second lig can help to produce "portrait-like" lighting in candid did shoot situations, It can be used to extend the range of the on-camer ligh to open up backgrounds and produce a more natural effect. Ligh ratio can be controlled by exposing the off-camer main light and filling in withte the on-camer light. Variation in output power of the fill ligh can be employed to produce all kinds of dramatic lighting effects.

If you are limited to one on-camera light there are a few basic falsh techniques that can improve your quality. A swing or gimble-lie bracket can be employed to place the lamp-head or Speedlight about 12" above the les to negate or minimize distracting shadows on walls or surfaced begin the subject. This will also help in creating a bit more depth of light, especially if the flash can be raised a bit higher. The Speedlight or lamp head can be handheld to accomplish this effect but the bracket will insure more consistent even lighting and will provide easier handling. This kind of bracket setup is also advisable for flash-fill applications as it will provide flat and even lighting. Bouncing the ligh off of walls and ceilings is yet another technique if creating more natural and all-over lighting. This requires whte walls to ceilings close to the on-camer ligh and the sh subjects. To facilitate defused or to simulate bounced light, a wide variety of modifiers can be added to the flash or lamp head.

cjc2 Loc: Hellertown PA

Do this on a tripod (or something else) if possible as the ambient light can add blur to the background.

Bridges Loc: Memphis, Charleston SC, now Nazareth PA

I never had a problem with this without a support. The modern cameras have such good vibration control you would really have to have a heavy hand on the shutter to make much of a difference. Also, I would try to avoid bright areas such as windows or a metal cross that would show movement more easily. With a dark background but not totally black it would be hard to detect any movement if there was any.

MG Audet

I have an SB 900. Works well for me on my D850. Can't compare to the other models. It's a quality speedlight. Depends how often you shoot with one. My use is less than 1%.

JD750 Loc: SoCal

I suggested that on page 1. I also suggested that the OP determine where his limits are for higher ISO. Those suggestions have been ignored by the OP and all others as well. Up to you, not one other responder has mentioned higher ISO. And the OP hasn't responded to any posts since the first day. So nobody here is interested in higher ISO as an alternative solution.

Joecosentino Loc: Whitesboro, New York

hi. First you are dealing with the inverse square law. That's one of the few real laws. The sh 910's are great when I do events I put 4 up one in each corner of the room, and I have an older SB flash on my camera. It is a rathe4 expensive kit but it gets the job done, the guide number of the 910 sho7ld get you good exposure at 20 feet. You didn't mention what camera you have but bumping the ISO up a couple of stops will also help. 1/40 sec. Shutter speed will let more ambiant light in. The flash should freeze the subject.

jcboy3

The Godox AD360II has a guide number of 262feet at ISO 100, and costs $499. Pick up a remote trigger, and you will not need more power for your use.