Robertl594 wrote:
I would be very careful. I am not a chemist, but I question if the sprayed side is on the side of the photo, will the chemicals eventually destroy the photo and paper inside if the frame? We are all careful of which archival papers we use when printing, seems that this would also be a consideration as well.
That should be of no concern at all.
Youre not simply not a chemist, youre not a picture framer. If the not-sprayed shiny side faces the viewer then how would that be non-glare glass ?
Robertl594
Loc: Bloomfield Hills, Michigan and Nantucket
User ID wrote:
That should be of no concern at all.
Youre not simply not a chemist, youre not a picture framer. If the not-sprayed shiny side faces the viewer then how would that be non-glare glass ?
Good point. I should have thought this through a bit better. Good thing you’re both a chemist and a framer.
billnikon wrote:
If this is for a framed image I go to a frame shop and buy it. Cheap.
Indeed, a frame shop is the appropriate place to buy such things.
Just some information for y'all:
Real non-glare glass is not sprayed or coated with anything, it is sandblasted. There is a lotsof cheap and inferior non-clear glass on the market- it is thin, breaks easily, and is sandblasted on both sides. This kind of glass has a tendency to dull certain images in that it can subdue shadow detail and cause general diffusion. Someof these cheaper products are not sandblasted but treated with acid, someof which can remain residually if not thoroughly washed.
The better quality non-glas glass is called conservatory glass and is sandblasted on one side in a more precise method. One side is left glossy. The glossy side is facing the print, however, in proper framing technqies there are spacers or mattes that prevent the glass from coming into contact with the print. The better quality glass I also may have some UV. filtration. Window glass may have a colour tint- framing glass is perfectly clear as to colour content.
As for lacquers, varnished and "chemicals. There are lacquer coatings that are specially formulated for photographs, however, they were designed for use mostly on colour print emulsions- not prints made with pigment dyes. These sprays come in various surface finishes- glossy, satin, matte, and ultra-matte for retouching. Thereis also a brush-on type for texturing. Again, the matt coatings can cause a lack of brilliance. Over time, some of these products can discolour or "yellow". Nowadays, these surfaces and textures can be intrinsic in the paper- like black and white fibre prints were in the olden days.
Spraying a dulling spray or matte lacquer on glass? Thereis no law against but I suspect it may alter the visual print quality and eventually come off or scratch, collet dust and be impossible to clean effectively.
Even the best non-glare glass will exhibit some glare- it depends on the angle of incidence of the room lighting and the position of the viewer.
Thereis alwas a compromise in protecting or glazing display prints. Glossy prints will yield the most sharpness and, brilliance and saturation- whatever is in the print. Dead matte can dull the print and especially in low-key images negate most of the shading detail and gray down the entered image. A good compromise is a satin finish.
I have colour prints in my home someof which are 50 years old- mounted on canvas and lacquered, some archival framed, and come mounted on canvas and surface laminated- they are all in great shape.
I guess you can call me a "framer". It is not my main business, but I have offered custom picture framing and many other display methods and techniques for a very long time. I to the courses, and keep up with the latest archival methodologies. Again, there is no law against any DYI solution. If you like, you can pin prints to the wall with thumbtacks and coat the with packing tape but if you want to preserve special images and have the lookin' good, use the proper materials. There are framing suppliers that will ship to most locations. Hardwear stores are not usually the best sources.
Robertl594 wrote:
Good point. I should have thought this through a bit better. Good thing you’re both a chemist and a framer.
And a Rocket Scientist ;-)
My experience with polyurethane is that it yellows/browns sooner than i like. This is subjective and it does solve the problem a bit.
SueScott wrote:
Haaa!! No frame shops near here - the closest would be about a 50 mile drive - it's either a Lowes-type store or DIY!
You might want to look into this or a similar source (and maybe not the Sears catalog
).
https://www.framedestination.com/
SueScott wrote:
I like the effect - it blocks most of the glare and doesn't seem to blur details like regular no-glare glass does. We're getting ready to do this to the glass on another framed print.
Thanks for the idea, Sue.
billnikon wrote:
Sprayed glass collects dust that cannot be easily removed and then causes a lot of new problems. Not worth it, go to a frame store and buy it, it's cheap and your better off.
...Bill, are you referring to non-glare glass? That stuff ain't cheap, at least around here in LA. I use non-glare plexi (p99) and *it* ain't cheap...'bout 6-7 bux a square foot.
SueScott wrote:
Recently we tried buying no glare glass at Lowes and of course, they didn't have any. So, Chuck came up with the idea of spraying a regular piece of glass with matte finish spray polyurethane and it worked like a champ and probably saved a bit of money as well.
Will this work for spraying the windows on the house? Would be great to cut down on glare when taking pictures.
Greg from Romeoville illinois wrote:
Will this work for spraying the windows on the house? Would be great to cut down on glare when taking pictures.
Personally, I prefer "glass so clean it seems to disappear" - looking out a window treated with a polyurethane spray would not be a pleasant experience!
SueScott wrote:
Haaa!! No frame shops near here - the closest would be about a 50 mile drive - it's either a Lowes-type store or DIY!
The coating that the frame shop sells is not polyurathane...
because polyurathane (Estapol for example) goes yellow over time...
SueScott wrote:
Recently we tried buying no glare glass at Lowes and of course, they didn't have any. So, Chuck came up with the idea of spraying a regular piece of glass with matte finish spray polyurethane and it worked like a champ and probably saved a bit of money as well.
I would be careful as most lacquers polyurethanes will eventually peel off it can't get a bite . There is a product DuPont 222S Mid-Coat Adhesion Promoter it will keep the clearcoat on .
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