worldcycle Loc: Stateline, Nevada

That I understand, I do all of my own printing and framing as well.

M1911 Loc: DFW Metromess

I don't know where you live but it seems you have a month or more, so why not experiment at local museums and older churches that might have similar lighting. As others have said, there are plenty of pictures out there of the artwork, images of the environment with them might be more rewarding.

Pubber

When I was there no cameras were allowed in the enclosed area of the last supper; you need to get ticket way in advance before you go; and they only allow you inside for 15 minutes. A photo of the last summer is outside the enclosed viewing area. I took a picture of the picture.

EJMcD

Hi Ray: Just for fun I took a photo of a "paint by number" oil painting of the last supper that I did about 50 years ago when my eyes were no doubt better and had a steadier hand. The painting is hanging in my dining room in low to moderate incandescent lighting. I just now took the photo hand held, with my D5, no flash, Manual Mode, 24-70 zoom at 50mm about 6 foot away, 1/60th, f4, ISO800 (I kept it reasonable). The first image is straight out of the camera. The second image was simply cropped and brightness tweaked in post processing.

djet Loc: Burbank, CA

My wife and I were there in April, 2019 on a Uniworld river cruise. Our group of about 50 people had our own private viewing. The painting takes up an entire wall. If a large group of people are viewing, you may have trouble getting a good photo.

dennis2146 Loc: Eastern Idaho

With all due respect I think you are putting a negative on many people simply because they take photos in a museum. I suspect it is not to prove they have been there. I sometimes take photos in a museum because I want to have my own photos of the painting or whatever else. I don't need to prove I was there. I also realize I can look up the piece of artwork on the Internet and see the picture someone else took. But that photo is not one I took. It is the work of someone else. I want my photograph to be MY work, not someone else's work. Sorry if you cannot see that point of view but that is the way I see it. Why do people visit the Grand Canyon or any of our Parks when we can simply see great photos in magazines? They want to see the real thing.

Dennis

EJMcD

Hi djet: I've never been there to see the original so it's hard for me to get a feel for the dimensions of the wall and how far from which it can be viewed. If attempting to capture the complete image it could easily require the wider focal length of 24mm. Something else for Ray to consider.

EJMcD

Dennis: If you refer to a previous post, he did acknowledge the fact that many want to shoot and print their own photos which he admits he does himself.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Fairly typical of what to expect from this camera. Lots of noise, and when shooting jpegs, minimal fine detail on close inspection.

The image below was taken with a D810 in terrible light for wildlife - 1/1000, F8, ISO 12,800. Recorded as raw and post processed to maximize detail rendition, minimize noise.

The last image is a full resolution version of the first, unprocessed. I think there is a considerable improvement in the processed versions.

.

(Download)

Crop from above

(Download)

unprocessed image

(Download)

EJMcD

Hello again djet: I'm no Leonardo DaVinci but would you have any objection if I attempted to improve the clarity of your image and re-post it to this topic? If you prefer not, I completely understand.

MrPhotog

First worry about white balance. Interiors will be unique mixes of daylight, fluorescent, LED, and incandescent light. Carry a folded sheet of white printer paper, or a white card. Unfold it and you have a white reference surface. In some buildings every room will be different. Sometimes every cornet of a room has a different light mix.

I used to be able to shoot most interiors with a 400 speed film and a fast lens. Now I routinely set my digital camera to 4000 or 6400 for interior shots.

I try to shoot at 1/125 th of a second, and f/5.6 with my 28-70 f/3.5 lens.

If I can’t get that exposure to work I’ll drop to 1/60th of a second. After that, if I still need more light, I double the ISO as many times as it takes.

The reason why: My Sony has in-body image stabilization, but I still see better results, if hand holding, at 1/125, particularly when I go with a 135 mm tele. With a wide angle lens 1/60 is still OK.

I’m not fond of shooting with the lens wide open. At f/5.6 I get the advantage of a bit of added depth of field, and just maybe I’m a bit closer to the sweet spot on lens quality with that zoom.

If white balance, focus and shake are taken care of, the only thing I need to deal with is any ‘noise’ from a higher ISO. I can accept some of that as ‘grain’, which is more of a problem with bigger prints. Some of that can be tinkered with in post processing, too.

Enjoy your trip. Italy is a great country for a photographer to tour. The Renaissance artists painted beautiful models, and the great, great, great…grand children of those models are still to be seen in the cities and villages—and still as beautiful as their ancestors. Between the people and the architecture, the country is just so photogenic.

EJMcD

IMO 12,800 is quite high. I took the photo of my oil painting (see above) but kept the ISO at 800. Of course I don't have the same camera but 12,800 may not be necessary.

larryepage Loc: North Texas area

There's no need for anything close to ISO 32,000. First off, you are only leaving a little over 2.5 stops of dynamic range, so there's not going to be anything left to look at with that choice. I've never needed anything beyond 2500 using a lens with VR in what appeared to be a terrible worst-case situation.

Inprinter Loc: Indiana

If the only restriction is flash then lug along a light weight tripod. Even in low light you can set your ISO very low(I have used ISO 64 even) f stop @ 8, manual focus and probably an exposure measured in seconds. That’s where the tripod pays dividends. Keep checking your histogram display and keep it shoved to the right as long as you don’t clip any important highlight areas. The tripod gives you the stability, the low ISO keeps the funky noise away, and manual focus lets you control the sharpness you want. My Nikon will split screen zoom focus so I can really tell that I am getting the best detail in the image. You can post process and bring back any highlights provided they were not clipped and adjust overall exposure. This has worked for me many times. Good luck and practice this before you go.

EJMcD

Tripods have already been discussed (see previous posts). Do you know any Museum that will allow visitors to set up trlpods??