fotoman150

I’m trying to shoot some stuff for eBay.

My umbrella lights are 3 ft from my subject in full power using Novartron M500 mono lights on full power, range high, tripping with a speedlite on my hot shoe and the slaves are on.

But I have to shoot at f5 shutter speed. 1 1/25 sec ISO Hi 1, which is the next step above 6400 in my Canon 5D MarkII. and I still have to brighten them in lightroom.

I’m doing something stupid or I’m losing my mind. Or both.

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

You might attach and store an unedited image, the JPEG file as imported into LR, not exported, so we can see the image and the image EXIF.

What I like to do with a flash is shoot in manual on both the camera and flash, where I can adjust both independently, where the camera only controls tripping the flash.

From what you described, look at the settings for aperture priority and dial-in those same setting in manual mode for the camera. Then, shooting in manual and see how it looks. Consider too if the light should be closer to the subject? Confirm the flash is operating at full 1:1 power.

BebuLamar

What is the shutter speed? 1/25?. It seems the flash fired out of sync and thus you made the shot with ambient light only.

DirtFarmer Loc: Escaped from the NYC area, back to MA

What exposure do you need if you just take a shot with the speed light aimed at the subject (TTL)? Not suggesting it as a solution, but a diagnostic test.

BebuLamar

His flash wouldn't have TTL. It's a studio flash.

JohnSwanda Loc: San Francisco

How are you arriving at your exposure settings? Do you have a flash meter? You shouldn't need that high an ISO with studio flash. like someone else above, I wonder if the flash didn't sync, although it should at 1/25.

BebuLamar

He said he tripping with a speed light on the hot shoe. The speed light may be on TTL mode and thus emit preflash which would fire the studio flash before the shutter open.

User ID

That or by ambient plus the trigger flash in the hot shoe ... but NOT including the boost from the Novatrons within the shutter duration.

If thaz happening, second curtain synch would make things even worse, meaning the Novatrons will hit too late even if you slowed the shutter to about 2 seconds.

User ID

That too :-(

The most predictable way to sync studio lights is to disable ALL automation. You don’t need it in a fixed repeatable set up.

Thomas902 Loc: Washington DC

Fotoman your Novatron M500 Monolight has two power ranges, 500 and 125 w/s

However if you are shooting at full power you're at 500 w/s which is total overkill at 3 feet regardless of your modifier(s)...

If your are "shooting at f5 shutter speed; (1 1/25?) I assume 1/250 sec with ISO 12,000 (Hi 1, which is the next step above 6400 in my Canon 5D MarkII). and I still have to brighten them in lightroom.
Then your exposure is actually likely from you modeling light only...
What I'm sharing with you is you're not tripping the Novatron's in sync with your Canon 5D Mark II shutter.

Been there done that... It's confusing...
Please post a image you attempted with this rig so I (and others here) can try to decipher the EXIF data, k?

Thanks, and no worries there is likely a very easy fix

Thomas902 Loc: Washington DC

Like BebuLamar said "...The speed light may be on TTL mode and thus emit preflash which would fire the studio flash before the shutter open..." This actually makes perfect sense... I've seen this before... everything happens in such a narrow time frame that your eye will not notice it.

Please... We need more relevant data... EXIF and all the actual components in this mix

Hip Coyote

It would be helpful to post some shots for download.

I am learning this flash thing as well, but have had some success with it, so will give my 2 cents worth.

It seems that a shutter speed of 1/25 is way too slow. I THINK that there has to be a minimum shutter speed for your camera and all the flash to work together. The flash of light is acting wonky with the SS. Wonky is a technical term that us photogs use to say we dont know what the heck is happening. I would think you have to be at least at 1/60. It is my understanding that flash, in a controlled environment with all the flash gear firing, controls ambient. At 1/25 you have the flash exposing the shot, then the shutter still open for a long time, with very high iso, and flashing. I am confounded why the shot is underexposed given all the light hitting the sensor. As someone said, it could be that ttl is trying to counter the oddball exposure triangle you set up. Or the flash fired before the exposure ever started and you are shooting, quite literally, in the dark. Aperture controls the exposure with the flash. I'd consider shooting at 1/125 range or higher. You can stop down or open up the f stop to get the right exposure to suit your needs.

I am a follower of the flashgear.net group on FB. They use a grey card to get their flash exposure right then shoot. That method works very well for me. I recommend using flashes in manual, being able to control their output, expose for exact middle of the histogram for grey and the go from there.

My guess would be low iso (100 or 200) , f 6.4 or there abouts, ss of 125 or faster, adjust manual lights from there. People like ttl because it seems easier, but in my little quest for flash nirvana, manual seems to be easier for me to get the middle grey right.

Ill be watching to see what the pros say on this one and what the answer finally is.

Hip Coyote

Now that could be the answer...

fotoman150

Yes I googled it and I had the speedlite on ETTL. The preflash was tripping the studio lights and then when the shutter opened the studio flashes had not yet recharged.

I put the speedlite on the hotshoe set to Manual and that solved the problem.

I knew it was something stupid. I've never tried to use a speedlite before. I always used a pocket wizard.

Thanks Thomas and all!!

Hip Coyote

Then go to flashgear.net and the stobist.com...excellent instruction. If I can do it, a trained monkey can do it!

Cheers