Lucian
Loc: From Wales, living in Ohio
Tape may not hold, plus it gets messy when you want to remove it. Better to get some of those thing Velcro straps they sell to gather up computer and printer power cables and use that to hold it in place. You are sure though, that there is not a way to slide it after pushing it closed?
I had a thought, what batteries are you using? I recall once that the rechargeable batteries I had purchased, were ever so slightly longer and would not allow the door to close and lock on something I was using then in. Try using, say Duracell, if you are not already, or a different brand and see if the door will close and lock then.
Uou could perminently glue Velcro to the battery door and chassis. That works very well.
tovie wrote:
I have two old flash units: Canon 420EX and Sunpak auto433AF Thyristor for Canon. I have not used them for a long time but find now that they both have the same problem: I can snap-close the battery chamber doors for each if there are no batteries in the chamber. But if I place batteries in the chamber (4xAA's), the chamber door will not close and stay shut. I can hold the door closed and the flash will fire when triggered but the door on each unit will not stay closed on its own. I'd appreciate any ideas on how to fix this other than taping the doors closed.
I have two old flash units: Canon 420EX and Sunpak... (
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I have had old flash units too where the battery door has gone south as they say. I have used tape or several tight rubber bands. Mine were different brand and models from your but the same issue. Good luck and do be aware of the flashes trigger voltage when using with a newer camera.
I was thinking: try some older type batteries, non-lithium, maybe even non-alkaline. Would not be surprised if size has increased just enough. I have a high power UV lamp and one battery would not stop charging. They sell it on Amazon, but not the batteries made exactly for it. Found replacements, but 1 mm longer for same battery type. Luckily they do fit the flashlight. Might even get a caliper at HF and measure batteries until you find the shortest ones.
Throw them out and buy new ones. Check out Godox The new stuff works ever so much better
tovie wrote:
...Tape may be the only solution.
Or get the door replaced, if the latch is broken.
P.S. I have no idea what they're called... but I bought some straps that I use to keep coiled up power cords and pneumatic hoses neat. They are around 6" or 8" long, 1/2" to 3/4" wide, have a large plastic loop on one end to pass the other end through, then hook and loop (Velcro) fasteners to keep them secured in place. They would very likely work to keep a battery door tightly closed, too. Look for them in hardware stores. I've also seen similar at computer stores, where they're sold to be used to keep bundles of wiring neat under desks and behind furniture, etc. The difference is that these don't have the large loop on one end, just rely on the hooks and loops to keep them fastened. This type can easily be cut to a more convenient length, if needed. Both of these are based upon a flexible strap that won't stretch (the way rubber bands etc. would), so should stay in place well for this sort of use.
amfoto1 wrote:
Or get the door replaced, if the latch is broken.
P.S. I have no idea what they're called... but I bought some straps that I use to keep coiled up power cords and pneumatic hoses neat. They are around 6" or 8" long, 1/2" to 3/4" wide, have a large plastic loop on one end to pass the other end through, then hook and loop (Velcro) fasteners to keep them secured in place. They would very likely work to keep a battery door tightly closed, too. Look for them in hardware stores. I've also seen similar at computer stores, where they're sold to be used to keep bundles of wiring neat under desks and behind furniture, etc. The difference is that these don't have the large loop on one end, just rely on the hooks and loops to keep them fastened. This type can easily be cut to a more convenient length, if needed. Both of these are based upon a flexible strap that won't stretch (the way rubber bands etc. would), so should stay in place well for this sort of use.
Or get the door replaced, if the latch is broken. ... (
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Thanks, those sound like a good idea for the OP and I can think of other uses for them as well.
tovie wrote:
I have two old flash units: Canon 420EX and Sunpak auto433AF Thyristor for Canon. I have not used them for a long time but find now that they both have the same problem: I can snap-close the battery chamber doors for each if there are no batteries in the chamber. But if I place batteries in the chamber (4xAA's), the chamber door will not close and stay shut. I can hold the door closed and the flash will fire when triggered but the door on each unit will not stay closed on its own. I'd appreciate any ideas on how to fix this other than taping the doors closed.
I have two old flash units: Canon 420EX and Sunpak... (
show quote)
In a pinch a couple of strong rubber bands may solve your problem
You may be able to obtain, If they are worn out beyond repair the catch mechanism a real door for each of those units, there is a quick fix that has worked for me.
Buy a small roll of GORILLA TAPE. Cut a map piece and apply it to the door. It will come off with a little effort when to need to change batteries but it won't come loose in use. Other improvisations I have used in an emergency situations are ZIP TIES or cable ties. I buy the less expensive ones in the dollar stores because they are more flexible. Sometimes I will splice 2 or 3 of them together- tighten them up and cut them off to change batteries.
I keep the tape and ties in my gear cases. It's surprising what they will hold in place.
Attaced- a shot of my dirty and beaten up old spare flas that live in the trunk of my car for emergencies. It's head together with zip ties!
JD750 wrote:
My units the doors require a little force to close. I have to hold them down securely while sliding the door shut to get the little catch under the lip of the door.
If that catch is broken off you should be able to see that. In that case I recommend gaffers tape to hold the door shut.
Sometimes you can find new battery doors on ebay
tovie wrote:
I have two old flash units: Canon 420EX and Sunpak auto433AF Thyristor for Canon. I have not used them for a long time but find now that they both have the same problem: I can snap-close the battery chamber doors for each if there are no batteries in the chamber. But if I place batteries in the chamber (4xAA's), the chamber door will not close and stay shut. I can hold the door closed and the flash will fire when triggered but the door on each unit will not stay closed on its own. I'd appreciate any ideas on how to fix this other than taping the doors closed.
I have two old flash units: Canon 420EX and Sunpak... (
show quote)
I also have a 430EX but I have not have your problem. I just opened it and see that I have a corroding battery in it. I have also had it to stop working due to a corroded contact.
I use a black silicone wristband on a Yongnuo ring flash that is well known for its broken battery door problem. Amazon B08DKV7GKZ
TriX
Loc: Raleigh, NC
birdman12 wrote:
I also have a 430EX but I have not have your problem. I just opened it and see that I have a corroding battery in it. I have also had it to stop working due to a corroded contact.
Speaking of corrosion, consider using Eneloops or similar, and you can forget the potential corrosion and damage from alkaline batteries.
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