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Background darkening
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Dec 10, 2021 18:41:20   #
photoman022 Loc: Manchester CT USA
 
photoman43 wrote:
For new shots, use flash as main light. Inverse square law will help darken the background. Just make sure flash is not too bright.

https://digital-photography-school.com/dark-and-dramatic-backgrounds/


it's what i do!

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Dec 10, 2021 19:40:47   #
augieg27 Loc: Central California
 
slocum2020 wrote:
Looking for some suggestions on the best way to darken / totally darken the background in close up/ Macro shots mainly wildflowers and insects. I usually stack images and use a Canon 80D with a 35mm lens and a 100mm lens, I have been trying to use the contrast and shadow adjustments on Canons DPP software but it seems to add some harshness to the image, do not have Lightroom.

Thanks,

Frank S.


Try using Ring Flash. Bryan Peterson book " Understanding Close-Up Photography" Explains how to.

I have two of them (ring flash) and selling one.

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Dec 10, 2021 20:46:43   #
DWU2 Loc: Phoenix Arizona area
 
rgrenaderphoto wrote:
The 2021 update to Lightroom with its fantastic masking features, will allow you to select the background and manipulate exposure while leaving the main subject alone.

I needed to darken the background on some images of cakes for a door prize flyer. Lightroom did an excellent job in darkening the background.


I agree. If you can possibly afford the $10/mo for Lightroom Classic and Photoshop, you can learn to do amazing things with your photos.

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Dec 10, 2021 21:54:49   #
Lineyrich Loc: Northern Plains of US
 
Here’s what I do. In Lightroom development mask select subject. Select inverse. Darken exposure, blacks & shadows. That gets me pretty much there.

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Dec 10, 2021 22:19:52   #
gator55
 
I use a black non reflective piece of velvet far enough back to be out of the depth of field with a diffused flash not quite straight on. This eliminates any shadows. Don't need to post process and end up with artifacts. I only use software when necessary and rely on techniques through trial and error




(Download)



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Dec 10, 2021 22:22:09   #
Lineyrich Loc: Northern Plains of US
 
Yes!

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Dec 11, 2021 13:34:25   #
Jandjeby14
 
A quick and easy way if the photo is sharp and works otherwise, is to use the selection tool to choose the area you want to keep then choose inverse, and then use other tools such as lighten or darken or blur to get the effect you want.

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Dec 11, 2021 13:38:00   #
jamesl Loc: Pennsylvania
 
slocum2020 wrote:
Looking for some suggestions on the best way to darken / totally darken the background in close up/ Macro shots mainly wildflowers and insects. I usually stack images and use a Canon 80D with a 35mm lens and a 100mm lens, I have been trying to use the contrast and shadow adjustments on Canons DPP software but it seems to add some harshness to the image, do not have Lightroom.

Thanks,

Frank S.


--------

You can try a flat black card place behind the fowers when shooting them. This has worked well for me in macro shots.

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Dec 11, 2021 21:28:18   #
jeffcisp
 
You might want to look at Focus CK in Creative Kit; not only can you adjust degree of focus blur of the unmasked area, but also tonal gradation at the same time. A combination of slight modification of both factors can really help the subject pop.

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Dec 12, 2021 09:45:58   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
gator55 wrote:
I use a black non reflective piece of velvet far enough back to be out of the depth of field with a diffused flash not quite straight on. This eliminates any shadows. Don't need to post process and end up with artifacts. I only use software when necessary and rely on techniques through trial and error


But your images have shadows. The lighting is a bit harsh, but fine for these subjects. It seems like though you might have diffused the light, it is still a relatively small source so it behaves a bit like a very slightly softer than un-diffused light. The reason why I use a large bounce card is to soften the light even more. The shadows in your images have hard edges. A bigger light source would have softer transitions to shadows.

A little post processing would also tame the harshness. But it won't help the "flat lighting"

Regarding light and shadow, 19th Century artist, illustrator and teacher, Howard Pyle, wrote,

"Paint your picture by means of the lights. Lights define texture and color - shadows define form."

"By virtue of shadow all objects of nature assume form or shape, for if there were no shadow all would be a flat glare of light, color and texture…but when the shadow appears, the object takes form and shape. The province of shadow is to produce form and shape, and that of itself possesses no power of conveying an impression of color or texture.”

"A picture is more articulate where the light is concentrated on certain part rather than on all of it."

"In a diffuse light everything is soft and close in tone."


Needless to say the same rules of light and shadow apply to photography. Shadows are good. Light is good. The best artists (photographers) are those who make the balance work.

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Dec 12, 2021 15:21:29   #
gator55
 
Gene51 wrote:
But your images have shadows. The lighting is a bit harsh, but fine for these subjects. It seems like though you might have diffused the light, it is still a relatively small source so it behaves a bit like a very slightly softer than un-diffused light. The reason why I use a large bounce card is to soften the light even more. The shadows in your images have hard edges. A bigger light source would have softer transitions to shadows.

A little post processing would also tame the harshness. But it won't help the "flat lighting"

Regarding light and shadow, 19th Century artist, illustrator and teacher, Howard Pyle, wrote,

"Paint your picture by means of the lights. Lights define texture and color - shadows define form."

"By virtue of shadow all objects of nature assume form or shape, for if there were no shadow all would be a flat glare of light, color and texture…but when the shadow appears, the object takes form and shape. The province of shadow is to produce form and shape, and that of itself possesses no power of conveying an impression of color or texture.”

"A picture is more articulate where the light is concentrated on certain part rather than on all of it."

"In a diffuse light everything is soft and close in tone."


Needless to say the same rules of light and shadow apply to photography. Shadows are good. Light is good. The best artists (photographers) are those who make the balance work.
But your images have shadows. The lighting is a bi... (show quote)


Was trying to offer some suggestions for the OP to use or not.
Certainly not asking for a critique from you whoever you are. I dislike photography snobs like you!
BTW, I was illustrating how to avoid shadows in the background. I don't care if there is a small shadow on the branch. MYOB.

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Dec 12, 2021 15:32:29   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
gator55 wrote:
Was trying to offer some suggestions for the OP to use or not.
Certainly not asking for a critique from you whoever you are. I dislike photography snobs like you!
BTW, I was illustrating how to avoid shadows in the background. I don't care if there is a small shadow on the branch. MYOB.


Bless your heart!
.
Your lighting is harsh, regardless. As far as your likes/dislikes, if I placed any value in your opinion (or your critique of my critique of your sample images), I might take issue . . .

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Dec 12, 2021 15:51:56   #
gator55
 
Nobody asked for your pretentious opinion. Photography is supposed to be fun. Maybe woke up on the wrong side of the bed or is it that miserable in NY state to make you so critical of others? Photography snob.

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Dec 12, 2021 16:32:54   #
JohnCl Loc: Central Arizona
 
Gene, I like the process you described earlier in this thread and will try to find the foam material you used for your diffuser. I am saving this thread as a tutorial.

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