Alphabravo2020 wrote:
I have been wondering if spot metering could be used to determine the dynamic range of the scene when shooting posed subjects in high contrast situations. I seem to be often unsatisfied with matrix metering to pick the ISO, especially when the sun or specular highlight is in the frame or the subject has dark skin, etc. I'm still not yet completely fluent on exposure and metering theory so I'd appreciate comments.
I'm thinking this could work several ways as long as the dynamic range of the scene is less than the dynamic range of the camera at the selected ISO:
Manual mode (AutoISO). Set aperture for scene. Choose shutter speed for scene, say, 1/125. Note ISO at brightest and darkest areas of the scene to be exposed. Calculate stops from ISO range. Turn AutoISO off. Set ISO at lowest metered scene ISO plus half scene dynamic range.
It would be cool if cameras had a mode/tool where it would ask you to point the spot meter at the darkest and brightest locations you want to be properly exposed and then choose for you the lowest ISO that would cover the range.
TIA
I have been wondering if spot metering could be us... (
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The post below from Armadillo has helped me.
Armadillo Joined: Oct 4, 2011 Posts: 2549 Loc: Ventura, CA
Brian Roberts wrote:
I am currently doing interior photos for several local Realtors, and hope to get better results with some advice from UHH. I am using the Canon 5D with a 16-35 'L' lens, set up for aperture priority and post processing with LR5 and Photoshop. My goal is to allow exterior images such as green leaves, trees, etc. to appear through the windows, and believe that HDR might be the answer. Would anyone have any suggestions?
Brian,
You have a tough project in mind, there is a way to resolve your problem. HDR is one choice and will present its own problems.
Setting your camera up for Exposure Compensation is another, and possibly the better choice. Try the following in your own home first.
1. Set the camera up for one - three external flash units controlled by the camera hot shoe. This requires ETTL exposure control.
2. Pick a manual ISO where the flash output will illuminate the entire room ahead of the camera. (ISO = 200 - 400).
3. Set the camera mode control to "Program". This will allow the camera to control the exposure and flash independently.
4. Point the camera out the window, with the center spot exposure box targeted to the bright area (not the sky), and press the back button for exposure lock. This will set the shutter duration for correct exposure out the window.
5. Point the camera "Center Spot Focus" square on the wall to be included in the composition, depress the shutter button half way. This will set focus lock for the scene and set the flash output for the room. The flash output will be controlled by the light measurement of the flash coming (TTL) through the lens.
6. Re-compose the scene in the viewfinder, make sure the center spot metering square is not near the window. Press the shutter button all the way down to capture the scene.
The above recommendations are based on decades old photographic practices with film cameras, but with the addition of modern camera electronic measurements and controls.
Another option you can try for effects is to use Ev (Exposure Compensation Values). You can set the Ev to -.3 to -2Ev to reduce the exposure out the window. You can set the Flash Ev to any where between +2 to -2Ev for effect on the flash exposure.