Using Vivitar 283 Flash On DSLR's Question
May 17, 2021 22:01:58 #
User ID wrote:
Different years for different countries result in different trigger voltages.
It’s all about time, not about geography.
It’s all about time, not about geography.
Still nasty!
A 283 should be a 283.
Then there could be a 283a, or something. (283LV)
May 18, 2021 05:23:17 #
Longshadow wrote:
Still nasty!
A 283 should be a 283.
Then there could be a 283a, or something. (283LV)
A 283 should be a 283.
Then there could be a 283a, or something. (283LV)
Ah hah! But the 285HV is one that has safe sync voltage.
May 18, 2021 07:50:35 #
BebuLamar wrote:
Ah hah! But the 285HV is one that has safe sync voltage.
(HV ≈ High Voltage???)
May 18, 2021 08:22:06 #
Longshadow wrote:
(HV ≈ High Voltage???)
(HV ≈ High Voltage???)
Yes indeed the HV stands for High Voltage but it means that it can take the high voltage from an external power pack and because it is a newer version than the plain 285 the sync voltage is low and safe.
May 18, 2021 09:29:35 #
The Vivitar 283 was made from the mid 1970's up through the 1990's. On the two I bought when I started photography in the late 1970's I have measured the trigger voltage at 250 volts. They worked fine on my A body Canon's, however Canon flashes from that era had a trigger voltage of 6v. The Vivitar SL2 trigger can handle the high voltage of these early flash units, and can be found on Ebay cheaply. However, it does not work with other flashes in TTL mode, and unless you have a VPM module, you will get a full power pop.
May 18, 2021 09:41:30 #
E.L.. Shapiro wrote:
Someof the earlier Vivitar models had extremely hi... (show quote)
Appreciate the good advice
May 18, 2021 10:58:34 #
Longshadow wrote:
Their trigger voltages are different between the ones made in different countries??????
In this particular case, it's not so much WHERE it was made, but WHEN it was made.
The early Vivitar 283's (with higher voltage) were made in Japan, while the later ones with lower voltage were manufactured in Korea and China. The change in design was to accommodate newer cameras.
May 18, 2021 11:02:13 #
rook2c4 wrote:
In this particular case, it's not so much WHERE it was made, but WHEN it was made.
The early Vivitar 283's (with higher voltage) were made in Japan, while the later ones with lower voltage were manufactured in Korea and China. The change in design was to accommodate newer cameras.
The early Vivitar 283's (with higher voltage) were made in Japan, while the later ones with lower voltage were manufactured in Korea and China. The change in design was to accommodate newer cameras.
They really should have added a suffix to the model number so people could differentiate the trigger voltage!
They ARE different!
May 18, 2021 12:13:45 #
Longshadow wrote:
Their trigger voltages are different between the ones made in different countries??????
As I recall, later versions of the 283 were made in China and those had a lower trigger voltage than earlier models which were made in Japan. Wein also makes a unit called Safe Sync (or they did some years ago) which would go between the flash unit and the hot-shoe to protect the camera - as far as I know those worked well. Safest approach, as someone already mentioned, is to use the flash off camera with a remote trigger.
May 18, 2021 12:23:27 #
epd1947 wrote:
As I recall, later versions of the 283 were made in China and those had a lower trigger voltage than earlier models which were made in Japan. Wein also makes a unit called Safe Sync (or they did some years ago) which would go between the flash unit and the hot-shoe to protect the camera - as far as I know those worked well. Safest approach, as someone already mentioned, is to use the flash off camera with a remote trigger.
May 18, 2021 15:15:16 #
Tom 0933 wrote:
The high voltage of the Vivitar 283 flash will harm DSLR cameras. What about connecting the Vivitar 283 flash connected to a DSLR using the PC connections with cord? Would this still harm the camera?
YES!! I remember back when I used a flash with a cord on my film camera back in the 70's. I got a nasty shock from the PC connector before plugging it in.
May 18, 2021 18:47:50 #
This "old strobe/trigger voltage/digital camera question arises frequently. After 0ver 50 years of electronic flash usage as a commercial photograher and also partnering in the business of electronic flash repairs and custom builds, here's my advice. Consider it for what it is worth.
Simply stated, to can not strictly trust hearsay, make a and model designations, and/or many published specifications- you must test for trigger voltage to make certain it is safe and compatible with toy camera systems. Furthermore, you should assess the economy and viability of making the necessary test and adaptations.
Many older on-camer portable strobes and speedlights were extremely well designed and crafted- that's why they are still around on the used market. The featured point-to-point wiring, high-quality components and flash tubes. Many featured very high light output- as much as 200 or 400 watt-seconds along with large reflector/lamp-head designs and exceptionally smooth and even lighting patterns. A small Speedlight type like the popular Vivitar line- maybe not worth the time and investment.
If you have a DC voltmeter or an accurate multimeter, know how to set and use them, you can easily test for trigger voltage levels. If your unit has a household type synch socket, you simply insert the test leads in the socket as shown in the attached image. On an analog meter, if you get a reverse deflection or a minus (-) sign on a digital readout, simply reverse the probes and make a note of the polarity. You can also obtain a reading for the hot shoe foot of the unit. Contact the center contact on the foot with the positive probe and the edge of the foot with the negative probe.
The Vivitar line of Speedlight type flash units was popular in ther day and there are many still around the used market. There were many changes in design and manufacturing venues over their long production run. Some earlier units had very high trigger voltages but the model designation did not change. The "HV" designation had nothing to do with trigger voltage. It indicated that there is a port that enables connection to an external powe pack that is integrated with the high-voltage/capacitor circuitry - this provided higher powe output, more flashes per charge and more consistent recycling times. Other models, without this port, would accept an external BATTEY pack that only integrated wih the low voltage part of the unit that would provide more flashes per charge, more consistent recycling times but no increase in powe output. These were made by various other manufacturers and could be adapted through the battery compartment of the most popular speedlights via a model-specific appropriate dummy battery and coiled cord. So both the "HV and non- HV Vivitar models may POSSIBLY harbour excessive trigger voltage- you gotta test!
Some older strobes had lamphead circuitry incorporated a thyratron vacuum tube or solid-state devices to act as a relay to reduce or divert trigger voltage. If, however, the tube was damaged, blown out or defective the flash may still fire but the trigger voltage may be excessive. Yet another good reason for testing.
Damage from high trigger voltage is not confined to digital cameras. High currents can affect the synchronization mechanisms of film cameras and shutters as well. Arcing can cause burnout and, carbonization of the contacts that impair contact and eventually leads to breakage. This can be repaired and it is unlikely that anything else attached to the camer will be damage- EXCEPT THE PHOTOGRAPHER! If there is an accidental reversal of polarity via the synch cord in a unit with high trigger voltage, the entire meral body of the came can become live. If you then come in contact with a grounded part of the chassis of the powe pack or the lamp head or are working on soggy ground or in puddles or another kid of high potential ground- this can deliver a nasty shock- probably not enough to kill you but can, at least, cause you to drop the camera. If you have a pacemaker- it can do you in!
Morbidity aside, you need to assess, at the end of the day, if it pays to go to the trouble and expense of adapt and press an old Speedlight into service. Even if it doesn't damage your camera, there are many limits and issues. It will not integrate with your camera's TTL exposure management system, it has no HHS facilities, it won't respond to any on or off camera commands from the camera's systems a. An older well-used flash tube may be carbonized and cause a red colour shift. As an off-camera light, it may no be colour-temperature compatible with a newer on-camer unit in multiple lighting setups.
So, my friends, proceed with, as they now say, an abundance of caution. All of the horror stories and potential damages I alluded to, well, I did not read theses in a magazine or gather them from online media. Some came from my 55+ years as a workg photograher. The worst ones came from the shop when I was involved in the strobe business. We shared premises, for15 years, with a camera repair technician and we found many of these issues were encountered by experienced professionals and advanced amateurs. Otherwise savvy folks were disregarding warnings, poking around in strobes with screwdrivers, connecting all manner of ancient flash gear into their brand new digital cameras and while we were trying to resuscitate badly damaged strobes, the camera guy was performing postmoderns on messed up a digital camera that he warranted folks sent back as irreparable. Many of the photograher was surprised, shocked and disappointed and claimed that the official warranty repair folks were trying to rip them off and get them to buy new cameras. After all, they cried, the camera didn't below, up, explode, go down in a ball of fire! We had to explain that litte semiconductors, micro-circuits and all those little chips on the boards, don't usually explode- they just pass away quietly and go to transistor heaven!
The last words the poor deceased camera heard was "who needs a stinking Safe-Synch- the Speedlight flashes every time I shoot" Well, 'till it didn't!
Simply stated, to can not strictly trust hearsay, make a and model designations, and/or many published specifications- you must test for trigger voltage to make certain it is safe and compatible with toy camera systems. Furthermore, you should assess the economy and viability of making the necessary test and adaptations.
Many older on-camer portable strobes and speedlights were extremely well designed and crafted- that's why they are still around on the used market. The featured point-to-point wiring, high-quality components and flash tubes. Many featured very high light output- as much as 200 or 400 watt-seconds along with large reflector/lamp-head designs and exceptionally smooth and even lighting patterns. A small Speedlight type like the popular Vivitar line- maybe not worth the time and investment.
If you have a DC voltmeter or an accurate multimeter, know how to set and use them, you can easily test for trigger voltage levels. If your unit has a household type synch socket, you simply insert the test leads in the socket as shown in the attached image. On an analog meter, if you get a reverse deflection or a minus (-) sign on a digital readout, simply reverse the probes and make a note of the polarity. You can also obtain a reading for the hot shoe foot of the unit. Contact the center contact on the foot with the positive probe and the edge of the foot with the negative probe.
The Vivitar line of Speedlight type flash units was popular in ther day and there are many still around the used market. There were many changes in design and manufacturing venues over their long production run. Some earlier units had very high trigger voltages but the model designation did not change. The "HV" designation had nothing to do with trigger voltage. It indicated that there is a port that enables connection to an external powe pack that is integrated with the high-voltage/capacitor circuitry - this provided higher powe output, more flashes per charge and more consistent recycling times. Other models, without this port, would accept an external BATTEY pack that only integrated wih the low voltage part of the unit that would provide more flashes per charge, more consistent recycling times but no increase in powe output. These were made by various other manufacturers and could be adapted through the battery compartment of the most popular speedlights via a model-specific appropriate dummy battery and coiled cord. So both the "HV and non- HV Vivitar models may POSSIBLY harbour excessive trigger voltage- you gotta test!
Some older strobes had lamphead circuitry incorporated a thyratron vacuum tube or solid-state devices to act as a relay to reduce or divert trigger voltage. If, however, the tube was damaged, blown out or defective the flash may still fire but the trigger voltage may be excessive. Yet another good reason for testing.
Damage from high trigger voltage is not confined to digital cameras. High currents can affect the synchronization mechanisms of film cameras and shutters as well. Arcing can cause burnout and, carbonization of the contacts that impair contact and eventually leads to breakage. This can be repaired and it is unlikely that anything else attached to the camer will be damage- EXCEPT THE PHOTOGRAPHER! If there is an accidental reversal of polarity via the synch cord in a unit with high trigger voltage, the entire meral body of the came can become live. If you then come in contact with a grounded part of the chassis of the powe pack or the lamp head or are working on soggy ground or in puddles or another kid of high potential ground- this can deliver a nasty shock- probably not enough to kill you but can, at least, cause you to drop the camera. If you have a pacemaker- it can do you in!
Morbidity aside, you need to assess, at the end of the day, if it pays to go to the trouble and expense of adapt and press an old Speedlight into service. Even if it doesn't damage your camera, there are many limits and issues. It will not integrate with your camera's TTL exposure management system, it has no HHS facilities, it won't respond to any on or off camera commands from the camera's systems a. An older well-used flash tube may be carbonized and cause a red colour shift. As an off-camera light, it may no be colour-temperature compatible with a newer on-camer unit in multiple lighting setups.
So, my friends, proceed with, as they now say, an abundance of caution. All of the horror stories and potential damages I alluded to, well, I did not read theses in a magazine or gather them from online media. Some came from my 55+ years as a workg photograher. The worst ones came from the shop when I was involved in the strobe business. We shared premises, for15 years, with a camera repair technician and we found many of these issues were encountered by experienced professionals and advanced amateurs. Otherwise savvy folks were disregarding warnings, poking around in strobes with screwdrivers, connecting all manner of ancient flash gear into their brand new digital cameras and while we were trying to resuscitate badly damaged strobes, the camera guy was performing postmoderns on messed up a digital camera that he warranted folks sent back as irreparable. Many of the photograher was surprised, shocked and disappointed and claimed that the official warranty repair folks were trying to rip them off and get them to buy new cameras. After all, they cried, the camera didn't below, up, explode, go down in a ball of fire! We had to explain that litte semiconductors, micro-circuits and all those little chips on the boards, don't usually explode- they just pass away quietly and go to transistor heaven!
The last words the poor deceased camera heard was "who needs a stinking Safe-Synch- the Speedlight flashes every time I shoot" Well, 'till it didn't!
May 18, 2021 20:38:43 #
This site: http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html deals with the problem posed by the OP. Generally speaking older film cameras with little or no "automation" can handle high trigger voltages. Strictly mechanically timed shutters seem pretty safe. For example my Pentax MX while it has a TTL meter uses a mechanical shutter and can handle high trigger voltages. My ME Super with an electronic shutter....maybe not. My Pentax LX perhaps can handle high trigger voltages, but given the LX's "hybrid" shutter - mechanical above X synch, electronic below for exposures measuring many, many minutes or hours..... I don't care to experiment! Especially given the LX's relative rarity and the increasing scarcity of spare parts.
You can buy a digital DVM at HomeDespot or Lowe's for under $20. As a recent post in this thread describes, this
sort of DVM will let you measure the trigger voltage with reasonable accuracy. Good luck, and as always: "Be careful out there....."
You can buy a digital DVM at HomeDespot or Lowe's for under $20. As a recent post in this thread describes, this
sort of DVM will let you measure the trigger voltage with reasonable accuracy. Good luck, and as always: "Be careful out there....."
May 18, 2021 20:43:52 #
Tom 0933 wrote:
What type of wireless trigger are you using?
Many can be found on Ebay. Simple one to use: Vivitar SL-2 optical trigger can be had for about $10 if you check through all the listings. On camera flash set at Manual 1/128 power can trigger the SL-2 as long as there is line of sight between the 2. The Vivitar 283 is old but packs good power and is easy to use. Many fine copies can be bought for under $15 on eBay. I use several with the VP-1 variable power control attached.
May 18, 2021 21:37:22 #
GeorgeH wrote:
This site: http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVo... (show quote)
It not only the shutter that can be harmed by excessive trigger voltage- lots more are at risk. Here's a link that explains the electronics technology involved. The first paragraph explains the fragility or vulnerability of semiconductors when it comes to voltage overages. There is also useful information as to protective accessories and circuitry. A good read for photographers and electronics buffs!
http://www.robotroom.com/Safe-Sync.html
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