On of the Pros in the Camera Club earns his keep with HI-END real-estate photography. He uses low cost low output (cost and output goes hand-in-hand) flashes hidden around the room so as to wash the whole in light rather than one big explosive beam of light from the camera area.
Sounds reasonable, but what do you BobD and all think.
BobD
Loc: New Bern, NC
I experimented with extra lighting a little with previous cameras, but for what I charge, and for our small market, it was too complicated to set up, and took too much time. Most of my shoots here take around an hour. For high-end market homes those clients should, and apparently do, hire "real" photographers, pros with high-end Nikons and Canons, extra flashes/strobes, etc. Guys like Kelby. Way above my capabilities. Best I can do is use bounce flash, which I do a lot, and it's sufficient for the homes I shoot. I think I've only had one photoshoot for a listing over $1M. Most are in the $150k-$500k range....
Sbesaw - Thanks for posting those webpage links. And thanks, BobD, for your advice. :)
I have been doing Virtual Tours for about a year. Try to shoot from a corner, do bracketing if possible. I use a Sony A55 with a 18-55mm and I also use a wide angle 10-24mm. I shoot all my rooms with out a flash.
After you get the photography part of it done, do you have a way of creating the virtual tour. I have a great format that will allow internet viewing and the developer will receive a hit report of how many people view his virtual tour. You can even embed the Virtual tour in his website, if he wanted it that way. I can work with you on this if you would like.
www.motionpromedia.com
Although I do shoot interiors for designers, I try to use as little set up as possible and still get the depth within the frame.
A lot of it has to do with the angle you are shooting and the height, or lack of height, you position the view.
From your post, it sounds as though these are empty or almost empty rooms..?.. or are they staged?
As others have mentioned, turn on all the lights and if they are on dimmers, adjust to a lower power... this will read in your photo much brighter than you think without blowing out.
If you are showing one room going into another, make sure the other rooms are lit and not dark, let the eye travel into the photo's depth.
Shooting from a lower position will show more floor and make the room larger than it would if shot from eye level or above.
The living room photo travels back into the foyer and the opposite formal dining room. All lighting was existing fixtures and ambient.
This adolescent girls room was shot with just a flash bounced into a 36" reflector camera high left.
There are times when I do elaborate lighting setups, but only as much as I need to capture the feel of the room... since time is money and overlighting is overkill anyway.
BobD, and Dfarmer I appreciate your excellent advice it has been very helpful and I will use it!
I do have a 10-20 wide angle and had decided not to use it for fear of distorting vertical lines ....and had selted on using my 17-55 2.8 as it is a faster lens. Have now decided to take them both.
I was hoping to shoot with available light to capture your warm photos Bob...and maybe a bounce flash for dark areas...but I am concerned about windows being "blown" out due to over exposure...any suggestions?
Thanks jdubu...I was wondering about camera height..so lower camera position will make the rooms look larger..good to know!
Bobd, these are great thoughts. this entire post is full of sources and great advice. thank you for being so helpful ( I am Bob D as well! lol)
I have not had a problem with distortion using my 10-24, but I do make sure my camera is level on the tripod when taking the photo's. Bracket your shots and if you have the ability to use HDR use that as a tool as well. Good Luck
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