Interesting shot as usual. Thanks for the tech information. It's probably nothing I would ever use since I'm just finally getting 10 and 20 shot stacks to work using a Helicon Tube, but who knows.
sippyjug104 wrote:
Thanks, Dennis. A micrometer is a unit of measurement where there are 1,000 units in a millimeter or 24,500 increments in an inch. The industrial microscope objective that I use only has a depth of field of 0.017 millimeter so unless an image is perfectly flat, like a piece of film or a stamp, only the tip of a hair would be in sharp focus.
This is the Nikon TM (tool makers) microscope objective that I use as the lens for the camera. I mount it on a bellows and extend it to a distance of 160mm measured from the sensor of the camera to the thread mount of the objective which produces a 5-times magnification.
Thanks, Dennis. A micrometer is a unit of measure... (
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Very interesting. Sorry but now I have more questions. Feel free to ignore my ignorance if you choose.
Do you pronounce micrometer as it seems to be, like a micrometer measuring device for hundreds or thousandths of an inch OR is it pronounced more like micro meter?
Does the lens object you pictured use a standard Nikon bayonet mount or does it need an adapter of some kind? I have never heard of that object.
Would it be useful for me to put that lens on a Nikon bellows attachment and then take insect or flower photos as I would with the Nikon 105mm Micro lens? OR is it used mainly for microscopic photos as you take. I am guessing with such a very limited field of view it is mostly/only used for stacking type of photographs.
Dennis
sippyjug104 wrote:
Brenda, thanks ever so much for viewing and the reply and I too love the little sun bonnet it appears to be wearing.
For me the sun bonnet looks more like a Mexican sombrero. Either one is cute though. Very appealing in a fashion sense sort of way to other fireflies of the opposite sex perhaps.
Dennis
I will now have a Significantly greater appreciation for these little guys that light my yard come summer.
dennis2146 wrote:
Very interesting. Sorry but now I have more questions. Feel free to ignore my ignorance if you choose.
Do you pronounce micrometer as it seems to be, like a micrometer measuring device for hundreds or thousandths of an inch OR is it pronounced more like micro meter?
Does the lens object you pictured use a standard Nikon bayonet mount or does it need an adapter of some kind? I have never heard of that object.
Would it be useful for me to put that lens on a Nikon bellows attachment and then take insect or flower photos as I would with the Nikon 105mm Micro lens? OR is it used mainly for microscopic photos as you take. I am guessing with such a very limited field of view it is mostly/only used for stacking type of photographs.
Dennis
Very interesting. Sorry but now I have more quest... (
show quote)
Dennis, thanks again for asking for I truly enjoy sharing. A micrometer (micro meter) is a unit of measure that is equal to 1/1000 of a millimeter or 1/1,000,000 of a meter. Typically objects (as well as measurements) are also referred to as microns. A human hair for example is typically between 30 to 50 microns in diameter.
The Nikon TM microscope objective has a M26 size male thread for attachment. I use an M26 female to M42 male adapter that I screw into a Nikon F mount to M42 female adapter. M42 is a very common size of vintage photography gear such as Pentax.
Now, would I use this in the field...absolutely not for no microscope objectives would be practical for that application. What I use for field "single shot" super macro photography is a Mitakon Creator 85mm 1X to 5X macro lens that sells for $499 and is available in many camera mounts. It has the longest working distance of any macro lens. When I want to shoot high magnification in the field it is my choice to take.
https://zyoptics.net/product/mitakon-creator-25-85mm-f-2-8-1-5x-super-macro/Laowa makes one that is 2.5X to 5X which is a fantastic lens however so many times 2.5X magnification is just too much magnification.
raymondh wrote:
I will now have a Significantly greater appreciation for these little guys that light my yard come summer.
Thanks, Raymondh. It's nice to know that you enjoyed seeing it.
Fotoartist wrote:
Blue eyes and handsome.
Thanks, Fotoartist. The blue hue is possibly due to it being wet with alcohol that I store them in. I do not dry them for it tends to degrade them compared to keeping them moist. The wet eyes also tend to make them look a bit glazed at times also compared to a fresh specimen.
Curmudgeon wrote:
Interesting shot as usual. Thanks for the tech information. It's probably nothing I would ever use since I'm just finally getting 10 and 20 shot stacks to work using a Helicon Tube, but who knows.
Thanks, Curmudgeon. The Helicon Tube is a great "must have" for focus stacking in the field when used with an autofocus lens. I would have gotten one however most of my lenses are manual.
Thanks for viewing and for the feedback.
sippyjug104 wrote:
Dennis, thanks again for asking for I truly enjoy sharing. A micrometer (micro meter) is a unit of measure that is equal to 1/1000 of a millimeter or 1/1,000,000 of a meter. Typically objects (as well as measurements) are also referred to as microns. A human hair for example is typically between 30 to 50 microns in diameter.
The Nikon TM microscope objective has a M26 size male thread for attachment. I use an M26 female to M42 male adapter that I screw into a Nikon F mount to M42 female adapter. M42 is a very common size of vintage photography gear such as Pentax.
Now, would I use this in the field...absolutely not for no microscope objectives would be practical for that application. What I use for field "single shot" super macro photography is a Mitakon Creator 85mm 1X to 5X macro lens that sells for $499 and is available in many camera mounts. It has the longest working distance of any macro lens. When I want to shoot high magnification in the field it is my choice to take.
https://zyoptics.net/product/mitakon-creator-25-85mm-f-2-8-1-5x-super-macro/Laowa makes one that is 2.5X to 5X which is a fantastic lens however so many times 2.5X magnification is just too much magnification.
Dennis, thanks again for asking for I truly enjoy ... (
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Thanks for filling me in with this excellent information. I had no idea such things exist. You helped make my day and gave me something new to learn for today.
Dennis
dennis2146 wrote:
Thanks for filling me in with this excellent information. I had no idea such things exist. You helped make my day and gave me something new to learn for today.
Dennis
Dennis, you are more than welcome and it is my pleasure. This is my tabletop macro/micro photography setup. It's a little mirrorless Fujifilm X-T20 24mp crop sensor camera. I have an adapter on it so that I can connect a variety of other manufacturer items such as this old Novoflex Nikon bellows. On the other end of it is the adaptors that mount the Nikon TM microscope objective. The white thing on the end is vellum tracing paper that diffuses the three desk lamps that I use for illumination.
The camera rig is mounted on a manual screw type focus rail for rough distance adjustments. That is mounted on a digital motorized focus rail which provides the consistent numerous ever so fine steps for each shot in the stack to be taken.
In front of the camera is an inexpensive slide table that moves forward and back and left and right. On top of it is a laboratory scissor jack that raises or lowers the subject in line with the camera.
I've included a view of what it is like looking into the lens during one of my focus stacking sessions which shows how the lighting is diffused with the subject mounted in front of the camera.
sippyjug104 wrote:
Dennis, you are more than welcome and it is my pleasure. This is my tabletop macro/micro photography setup. It's a little mirrorless Fujifilm X-T20 24mp crop sensor camera. I have an adapter on it so that I can connect a variety of other manufacturer items such as this old Novoflex Nikon bellows. On the other end of it is the adaptors that mount the Nikon TM microscope objective. The white thing on the end is vellum tracing paper that diffuses the three desk lamps that I use for illumination.
The camera rig is mounted on a manual screw type focus rail for rough distance adjustments. That is mounted on a digital motorized focus rail which provides the consistent numerous ever so fine steps for each shot in the stack to be taken.
In front of the camera is an inexpensive slide table that moves forward and back and left and right. On top of it is a laboratory scissor jack that raises or lowers the subject in line with the camera.
I've included a view of what it is like looking into the lens during one of my focus stacking sessions which shows how the lighting is diffused with the subject mounted in front of the camera.
Dennis, you are more than welcome and it is my ple... (
show quote)
Sippy, what make and model desk lights are you using? I have two goose neck desk lights from Amazon and I am not particularly happy with them.
Curmudgeon wrote:
Sippy, what make and model desk lights are you using? I have two goose neck desk lights from Amazon and I am not particularly happy with them.
I have two IKEA JANSJĂ– that I stage on each side and a Style Selections 13.25-in Adjustable Stainless Steel Clip Desk Lamp with Metal Shade Item #771477Model #19739-000 that I got from Lowe's for $19.00 which is bright and quite nice. If I were to do it again, I would just get two of those.
The IKEA's are nice for a more focused beam which comes in handy when I place the subject inside a ping-pong ball and shine the IKEA's against it from both sides. I do this when I use the 10X or higher microscope objectives.
This is how I use the three lights in my most often used arrangement. The picture is looking into the 5X objective and it has two layers of vellum tracing paper over the end of it making like a long lens hood. The lights shine a distance away with one on each side and one over the top of the subject.
I learned NOT to put the diffusion on the lights themselves. Think how the sun is far away and the clouds are above the subject much closer than the sun is to it. That's what I strive to recreate and as you can see the light softly wraps around the subject. By the way, I have a mirror under it to open up any shadows that might be cast on the bottom of the subject.
Hope this info is helpful in some way.
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