Making any lens a macro
Mar 8, 2021 12:42:17 #
Thomas902 wrote:
"...making any lens a macro..." Not so... you need a lens with an aperture ring unless you are keen on shooting stopped down...
You do not need a lens with an aperture ring. The reverse adapter, like the one I have from Fotodiox, has a ring that adjusts the aperture on Nikon lenses, except those with electronic apertures.
I used it on a tripod mounted focusing rail.
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Mar 8, 2021 14:14:45 #
warzone wrote:
While I appreciate the input from anyone, I haven’t seen, and perhaps it was my fault, my real question. I was concerned about leaving the contact points which are normally covered when the lens is properly attached. Reversing the lens leaves this points open to dust, debris, etc. Any comments on that point?
To address your original post, I would not worry about exposing the contacts. Any dust that might accumulate on the contacts will be wiped clean the next time the lens is mounted normally on a camera.
Mar 8, 2021 14:35:32 #
I forgot to address the contacts. With the Fotoiox reverse adapter kit they provide an aperture ring that goes on to the back (now the front) of the lens. So, the contacts are not exposed.
Something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Reverse-Aperture-Control-Protector/dp/B005ODKL6G/ref=dp_prsubs_1?pd_rd_i=B005ODKL6G&psc=1
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Something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Reverse-Aperture-Control-Protector/dp/B005ODKL6G/ref=dp_prsubs_1?pd_rd_i=B005ODKL6G&psc=1
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Mar 8, 2021 14:48:34 #
Forget reverse mounting a lens. Thaz the worst approach for a beginner, awkward and limited in focus range. Impossible with some lenses.
You are correct that any lens can be a macro, in the loose, but very useful, meaning of the term. Ignore tightassed bozos that get all OCD about this stuff.
Forget reverse mounting. Get some tubes or diopter lenses. Lacking a lens optically optimized for very close use, you need to stop down a few stops to minimize or banish lens aberrations.
Don’t go for a subject field smaller than a playing card. Regular lenses shouldn’t be pushed to extremes. You’ll get better quality by just cropping vs focusing too close for the lens. You only need about 5MP for a poster sized print.
In general, tubes offer better IQ than diopters. Always use the weakest diopter that will get what you need (there’s some overlap in focus range between diopters.)
Stop down, crop as needed, have fun, and don’t let tightassed geeks rain on your parade !
You are correct that any lens can be a macro, in the loose, but very useful, meaning of the term. Ignore tightassed bozos that get all OCD about this stuff.
Forget reverse mounting. Get some tubes or diopter lenses. Lacking a lens optically optimized for very close use, you need to stop down a few stops to minimize or banish lens aberrations.
Don’t go for a subject field smaller than a playing card. Regular lenses shouldn’t be pushed to extremes. You’ll get better quality by just cropping vs focusing too close for the lens. You only need about 5MP for a poster sized print.
In general, tubes offer better IQ than diopters. Always use the weakest diopter that will get what you need (there’s some overlap in focus range between diopters.)
Stop down, crop as needed, have fun, and don’t let tightassed geeks rain on your parade !
Mar 8, 2021 14:58:43 #
I don't see why this should be a problem. Those contacts are gold plated and should not corrode. If they get dirty simply wipe them. No worse than leaving the plug of your headphones unplugged.
Mar 8, 2021 15:18:19 #
jerrye1000
Loc: New Jersey
I use extender rings.
They are inexpensive and they don't degrade the image quality because there is no glass.
they also have auto-focus and auto exposure feature because they make contact between the camera and lens.
the results are outstanding.
They are inexpensive and they don't degrade the image quality because there is no glass.
they also have auto-focus and auto exposure feature because they make contact between the camera and lens.
the results are outstanding.
Mar 8, 2021 15:18:34 #
I did this years ago when I was still in my film days, using a 58mm prime lens (besides, it was a cheap option). Later, when I could afford it, I bought a set of extension rings. Today, with my digital gear, I have again purchased a set of extension rings. I've also recently invested in a true macro lens, so I have no need to mess around with reversing lens. Besides, except for my macro and my long (400mm) telephoto, all of my lens are zooms and my understanding is that they're just not suited for this.
John
John
Mar 8, 2021 15:45:42 #
kymarto wrote:
I don't see why this should be a problem. Those contacts are gold plated and should not corrode. If they get dirty simply wipe them. No worse than leaving the plug of your headphones unplugged.
The problem is simply that they are there, idly hanging out in open space.
With a shaft driven AF Nikkor it’s no problem. But it’s no go for Sony, Fuji, Canon, m4/3, newer Nikkors, etc.
Mar 8, 2021 15:48:22 #
warzone wrote:
I’ve seen articles about making any lens a macro by reversing the lens by using an adapter. I am a little paranoid about leaving the lens connectors open to air, dust, etc. Anyone have any experience on this?
For many years, with I Nikkorex F, and later with a Nikon F, I shot with an 85mm 1.8 Nikkor and Nikon K extension tubes. It was great for 1:2 to 1:5 or so, even handheld; 1:1 was difficult, but then 1:1 can be difficult anyway. With more modern cameras and lenses, you'll need extension tubes that support the lens to camera electric connections, but those tubes should be in the $100-$150 range. They'll say they retain autofocus capability but, generally, in very close up and macro range, manual focus is the way you'll want to go.
Mar 8, 2021 15:54:13 #
Mar 8, 2021 17:41:20 #
User ID wrote:
The problem is simply that they are there, idly hanging out in open space.
With a shaft driven AF Nikkor it’s no problem. But it’s no go for Sony, Fuji, Canon, m4/3, newer Nikkors, etc.
With a shaft driven AF Nikkor it’s no problem. But it’s no go for Sony, Fuji, Canon, m4/3, newer Nikkors, etc.
No power on the contacts, gold plated so won’t corrode. No different from being in a camera bag or a lens pouch with the rear cover on. There’s just no issue there. Almost every electronics shop or lab I’ve been in (and that numbers in the many hundreds) have cables with connectors hanging or laying on benches unprotected.
Mar 9, 2021 04:13:43 #
Pablo8
Loc: Nottingham UK.
ELNikkor wrote:
In the film days, I regularly reversed my 43-86 zoom for beautiful macro close-ups. Without an adapter, I would just hold the lens against the lens-mount. I did it so often, that I bought an f-mount-to-52mm-filter-thread adapter for cheap and it worked great!
I am surprised that you got good results with that lens. In normal use, I found it had Pin-cushion distortion at one end of the zoom range, and Barrel distortion at the other end. I classed it as one of Nikons worst lenses.
Mar 9, 2021 06:45:51 #
TriX wrote:
No power on the contacts, gold plated so won’t corrode. No different from being in a camera bag or a lens pouch with the rear cover on. There’s just no issue there. Almost every electronics shop or lab I’ve been in (and that numbers in the many hundreds) have cables with connectors hanging or laying on benches unprotected.
You totally miss the point, and I know that you know better. Contacts are not protected ? Why did you bring that up ? I definitely did not.
Is there any difference between the gold contacts on a shaft driven AF Nikkor and the gold contacts on a Sony, Canon, Fuji, etc etc etc lens ?
No difference. Same type of gold plated contacts hanging out there in mid air regardless of brand. So why is reversing a shaft drive Nikkor OK but all the rest (including AFS-G Nikkors) are no-go ?
What is the problem with the contacts idly hanging in mid air ? Why is a shaft drive Nikkor different from the others ? Guess you’ll just hafta try it and see for yourself. It WILL be obvious ;-)
Mar 9, 2021 07:08:11 #
photoman43 wrote:
With lenses reversed the magnification is determined by dividing the focal lengths of both lenses. For example, 100mm /50mm = 2x. 200mm/50mm= 4x.
Thaz twice now that you’ve assumed the OP is using two lenses face-to-face. I know that works well for you, but that is not the question.
Read the opening post again. There’s no second lens involved. Also note all the other replies that are concerned about the disconnecting of electronic aperture control. That’s a serious issue with one reversed lens. No problem for your method cuz the second lens is always wide open.
Mar 9, 2021 09:54:50 #
User ID wrote:
You totally miss the point, and I know that you kn... (show quote)
I am missing your point (maybe on both posts). I got the impression from the way you phrased it that there was a problem with contacts “hanging out in the air”, (but perhaps you were being facetious?). There isn’t unless you physically damage them in some way which was/is my point. If you agree with that, then we agree. If you don’t, explain why in detail.
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