CHG_CANON wrote:
Some people like to use a a mild soup like Dawn. Results may vary.
Is that demonstrably superior to the Johnny Rae method, Just Walkin' In The Rain?
EdR
Loc: Gig Harbor, WA
What scrub brush do you use?
cbtsam wrote:
How is it that the filter will not affect my image quality? I'd always thought otherwise.
Good question! The quality of the filter, among other factors will affect your image. The first constant is that filter glass will offset the point of focus in the camera body plus or minus ~25% of the glass' thickness. Stopping down generally takes care of any difference.
Some filters are "more equal" than others, even among the "Better, cheaper" ones...
How to tell? Take your binoculars, focus ONE eyepiece sharply on anything detailed. Using only that eyepiece, quickly slide your filter in front of the front lens. Poor filters will be immediately seen. Don't look through the binocular too long at a time...your eyes will do some compensation.
I tried that trick, and trashed about 25% of my filters.
The filters I use now are minimal...UV/"protection" , CPOL, and ND, solid, graduated and variable, and Black Mist diffusion filters. NONE will do much for lens resolution, but any difference will be generally minimal and unremarkable.
CHG_CANON wrote:
Some people like to use a a mild soup like Dawn. Results may vary.
I'm wondering if this only works on modern lenses and cameras? 🥸🥸🥸
The only way to know for sure is to give it a try. Let us know how it turns out for ya.
flyboy61 wrote:
Good question! The quality of the filter, among other factors will affect your image. The first constant is that filter glass will offset the point of focus in the camera body plus or minus ~25% of the glass' thickness. Stopping down generally takes care of any difference.
Some filters are "more equal" than others, even among the "Better, cheaper" ones...
How to tell? Take your binoculars, focus ONE eyepiece sharply on anything detailed. Using only that eyepiece, quickly slide your filter in front of the front lens. Poor filters will be immediately seen. Don't look through the binocular too long at a time...your eyes will do some compensation.
I tried that trick, and trashed about 25% of my filters.
The filters I use now are minimal...UV/"protection" , CPOL, and ND, solid, graduated and variable, and Black Mist diffusion filters. NONE will do much for lens resolution, but any difference will be generally minimal and unremarkable.
Good question! The quality of the filter, among o... (
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To the entire UHH community:Review the ideas presented above and contrast that level of testing with the laser-based approach and results presented in June 2017 in the Roger Cicala blog post from LensRentals.com:
https://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2017/06/the-comprehensive-ranking-of-the-major-uv-filters-on-the-market/Note in the chart of results that the best class and specific models of UV filters transmit light at 99% or higher, including most the popular brands such as Nikon, Canon, Hoya, and B+W measuring at 99.5% or higher. If removing one of these quality filters serves to make you 0.5% of a better photographer, go for it.
zenagain wrote:
You got a lot of very good advise. The one thing i am surprised about though.
NEVER used compressed air!!,
The air pressure is to powerful and can actually blow particals of dust into the lens body.
I have used it to blow dust off of my tripod, maybe even a camera body from a distance, but if ya use it be careful.
That depends VERY much on your compressed air.
It is possible for compressed air to blow particles through the metal of the lens barrel (thousands of psi would be needed) or at only 1psi there's very little risk of getting particles through the gaps. Compressed air is pretty easy to regulate to usable pressure. Most air sources supply at ~100psi max & a simple $20 pressure regulator can reduce this to any lower pressure you want.
One common issue with normal compressed air sources is they are often lubricated (if for use with air tools) or contain propellant (if from canned air). The oil mist used for lubrication will make most lenses far worse than when you started cleaning them, typical propellants are less of an issue but are still to be avoided.
For cleaning camera gear I generally stick to the little rubber blowers sold specifically for this (even though I have a ready supply of ultra pure compressed air at work as well as a stock of regulators/valves etc.) These are generally very controllable allowing a gentle puff of air to be used to move particles away from seals etc.
CHG_CANON wrote:
To the entire UHH community:Review the ideas presented above and contrast that level of testing with the laser-based approach and results presented in June 2017 in the Roger Cicala blog post from LensRentals.com:
https://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2017/06/the-comprehensive-ranking-of-the-major-uv-filters-on-the-market/Note in the chart of results that the best class and specific models of UV filters transmit light at 99% or higher, including most the popular brands such as Nikon, Canon, Hoya, and B+W measuring at 99.5% or higher. If removing one of these quality filters serves to make you 0.5% of a better photographer, go for it.
b To the entire UHH community: /b br br Review ... (
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Light transmission has very little to do with it. If you are using a strong telephoto lens very minor imperfections in the flatness of said filters are magnified to be quite significant...
petrochemist wrote:
Light transmission has very little to do with it. If you are using a strong telephoto lens very minor imperfections in the flatness of said filters are magnified to be quite significant...
Is that theory or experience?
zenagain wrote:
You got a lot of very good advise. The one thing i am surprised about though.
NEVER used compressed air!!,
The air pressure is to powerful and can actually blow particals of dust into the lens body.
I have used it to blow dust off of my tripod, maybe even a camera body from a distance, but if ya use it be careful.
This is right on target. Instead a bulb air blower can be safely used, even to blow off a mirror of sensor. They blow air very gently and with no fluid. They are also available with a filter on the intake end (recommended especially if to be used for a camera interior). I have one, named a Hepa Jet II, that is always in my bag when I'm out in the field shooting.
cbtsam wrote:
How is it that the filter will not affect my image quality? I'd always thought otherwise.
It’s just an old wife’s tale. I’ve been using filters for over 43 years and never once had a problem.
CHG_CANON wrote:
Some people like to use a a mild soup like Dawn. Results may vary.
Last time I tried that, every time I pressed the shutter button a bubble flew out of the front of the lens!
CHG_CANON wrote:
Some people like to use a a mild soup like Dawn. Results may vary.
Paul, is it best to let them soak overnight to get them nice and clean? I'll sometimes add a little Ajax for the stubborn marks or stains. Would you ever recommend using a Brillo pad ?
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