chjaddbs wrote:
Thanks for your great feedback -- and for making me feel less of an idiot
. I already do most of what you suggest, but have a couple of questions. 1) why shoot in bursts (is this because the autofocus system does vary from shot to shot, so you get a little 'natural' focus-bracketing)? 2) When I use d-9 or d-25, I tend to get fewer keepers, at least when the subject is not a large fraction of the frame -- for what situations do you find it more useful than single-point (AF-C)? 3) When CAN you use manual focus and how do you implement that (use the back screen and magnify in live view?). Thanks!!
Thanks for your great feedback -- and for making m... (
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A few comments / suggestions, applicable to most cameras, but specific to my experiences with Canon EOS technology:
1. Using an extender / teleconverter will cause the system's autofocus to get sluggish, especially when the configuration reduces the maximum effective aperture to f/8.
2. Using Canon's AI Servo (Nikon AF-C / Continuous-servo AF) causes the camera and lens to continuous adjust the lens focus as long as the activation key is pressed. Keeping the lens in continuous focus seeks to overcome any potential sluggishness of the extender. It also addresses subtle movements of the subject and / or the photographer.
3. When possible and applicable, shoot in short bursts rather than one shot or just one long multi-second burst. Between each burst, release the focus button and restart, even if panning with a moving subject. Say a bird is flying toward you. You'd seek to acquire focus and pan with the bird. The moment before shooting, try releasing focus and reacquire and begin shooting. The idea of the wolf mentioned earlier is similar. Set an AF point on the eyes, shoot 2- to 5-images. Release the shutter and the auto focus. Restart the AF and shooting again. At home, pick through the best and delete the rest.
4. For advanced EOS models, review the AI Servo case settings, if available for your model. For other models, test adjustments for Tracking Sensitivity by setting the bias toward Responsive +1 or +2. Also, consider setting the bias of Acceleration tracking toward +1 or +2. Similar changes can made to tune any of the EOS Case settings, if available.
5. Consider the Back Button Focus (BBF) configuration. Most who like it, swear by it. This change reassigns the AF activation to a button elsewhere on the camera, typically the back of the camera that you reach with your thumb. Then, your index finger on the shutter only releases the shutter. Idea #3, earlier, would then be accomplished by moving your thumb slightly while your index finger remains poised and ready to release the shutter.
6. Trust your lens IS / VR. All Canon Series II / III IS-enabled lenses assume the IS is active regardless of shutterspeed or use of a tripod. If your EF lens provides a mode 3 Image Stabilization, test whether this mode improves your results. The mode 1 may improve the image stability of the view finder, but possibly for additional sluggishness of the AF.
7. Do not focus and recompose. Rather, set a single AF point (or a zone / group) specifically on the subject, preferably on the nearest eye of a person / animal. Practice developing your 'finger feel' for your camera body so you can move the AF point within the frame without lowering the camera from your eye in a shooting position. Alternatively, view your potential composition and pre-position the AF point / group before raising the camera to a shooting position.