billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

Call Nikon at 1-800-645-6687.

cedymock Loc: Irmo, South Carolina

I have this lens and had problems with lens hood almost from purchase. Recently while getting into a boat the lens hood went to the deep six. Looked at all replacement and decided on new HB-50 from B&H and it fit better than the one that originally came with the lens.

Jimmy T Loc: Virginia

Thoroughly clean the end of the lens where the hood mounts with rubbing alcohol. Let the lens dry, then use many light coats of clear flat fingernail polish on the raised (threaded) part of the lens that connects with the hood mount, letting it dry between coats. There are only two threads (raised lands) on the Canon lens that I am looking at. Apply coats of the clear polish until the mount is hard to get on. Then VERY lightly sand with a fine file until the lens hood fits to suit you. Use a huge helping of patience, and take your time to let the polish dry between coats.

I had a similar problem on a Canon 24-70 mm F2.8. If you use this fix, please let me know how it works for you. Best wishes on whatever fix you choose and don't forget to . .
Smile,
JimmyT Sends

Tjohn Loc: Inverness, FL formerly Arivaca, AZ

A lot of the older metal Nikon hoods were reversible, threaded or clipped either way. Look about.

olemikey Loc: 6 mile creek, Spacecoast Florida

This DIY is not for everyone (and if you are not into DIY, ignore this response)....when faced with the same problem I would try rebuilding the little nub with a quality epoxy/JB Weld, or a similar option to "regain the nub", tiny pin or somesuch, or you could look for a clip on style hood. Another possibility is to replace the front lens ring, if they are available. Stuff wear's out, unfortunately plastic nubs are one of those that won't last forever

Picture Taker Loc: Michigan Thumb

If you use a lot of white tape it will look like a pro lens.

SuperflyTNT Loc: Manassas VA

You put the filters between the camera and hood.

sabfish

Agree completely. When black electrical tape gets warm, it can turn to a gooey mess.

tnturk Loc: Gallatin Tennessee

Teflon tape helped me. No adhesive at all. Just an extra thickness between lens and hood. Any hardware store should have it.

Nicholas J DeSciose

People don’t understand, that there’s a major difference Between gaffers tape and duct tape. Gaffer tape was originally made for the motion picture industry.

photodoc16

To all:
I have the Tamron 10 - 24mm and it has the worst fitting lens hood on this planet. I too used some tape but the thought of using my rubber hood, which happens to be of the same filter size, is brilliant. Never occurred to me. You should check for any vignetting with a lens hood not made by the lens manufacturer.
Thanks,
Photodoc16

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

Gaffer tape is available in colors, too... including black. I have large rolls of it in black and in white. Shop around. Camera stores charge a fortune for gaffer tape. I got it at a local hardware store for a whole lot less $. I see Amazon has it from several sources, but don't know anything about the quality of those brands.

Provided you don't leave it on for a long time, gaffer tape doesn't leave residue and it is usually re-usable several times. The gaffer tape I got has some texture to help prevent slipping, too. (Note: If you leave any adhesive tape on a surface too long it can leave residue that's difficult to remove. Although much better than most tapes, even painter's tape and gaffer tape will do so if left on for weeks, months, years! How long it takes sort of depends upon the environmental conditions. High temps and very low humidity seem to make it worse.

Don't use electrical tape... it will gum things up. It also tends to crumple up and might jam the bayonet mount of the lens.

Don't use duct tape.... it will definitely leave residue.

I find it interesting that while it's great for many temporary or emergency uses, one thing that duct tape is terrible for is sealing air ducts!

Gaffer tape might be even more versatile than duct tape. We used it once to do a temporary repair a horse's hoof and it held up well enough to get her back to the trailer and then to a farrier for a more permanent fix. I don't know that duct tape would have held up to a 1000 animal walking on it for several miles on rough trails! Heck, I was a little surprised the gaffer tape worked.

Even though it's tough and holds up to a lot of abuse, gaffer tape can easily be torn to size by hand. No need for scissors or knives. It tears fairly cleanly and consistently, whether torn across for length or along its length into narrower strips when those are needed. Makes it easy to size for different applications. (Much better than electrician's tape, in this regard.)

REGARDING THE LENS AND LENS HOOD....

It might be possible to replace just the front plastic ring that has the hood bayonet mount and locking "nub". I don't have the lens and don't know.... but a repair tech can probably tell you (don't need to send it to Nikon just to find this out... but might need to in order to have any repair done, because Nikon refuses to sell parts outside their own repair network).

It also might be possible to build up a new "nub" using epoxy or super glue.

Or, depending upon the design, it might be possible to use the head of a pin as a replacement "nub". If I were trying to do that, I might trim off most of the pin, but leave a little of it protruding under the head. Then I'd drill a tiny hole in the lens to insert the pin, using epoxy to secure it all in place. Obviously, the lens needs to have enough thickness for the shallow hole to be drilled and the pin head has to be positioned perfectly for it to work properly.

I got a used lens with a similar problem not long ago. Instead of fussing with it I just got a "generic" metal lens hood that's a good match for the angle of view of the lens. And I got an oversize lens cap that fits over the larger part of the hood, rather than having to constantly install and remove the hood to store it. There are also "Hood Hats" made by the same folks who make Lens Coats, that serve similar purpose... protecting the lens while leaving the hood in place. In my case it's a relatively small, prime lens, so the hood doesn't add much length.

I would guess in this case it's a "tulip" shaped hood, since it's a wide ranging zoom. There are "generics" of those, too... that screw in rather than fit by bayonet. However, the problem with the generic screw-in tulip hoods is that the cutouts need to be properly positioned to prevent vignetting when using the lens at it's widest. In this case I'd look for one that's as close as possible to the original in shape, get it carefully set up so that it doesn't vignette, then glue the rotating/adjustable part of the hood in place permanently (not glue it to the lens), screw it back on the lens and leave it there pretty much permanently, capping it with one of those "Hood Hats". (They're made of stretchy neoprene, so are slightly smaller than the diameter recommended, to stay in place.)

I'm not a big fan of rubber lens hoods. Many are a very poor match to the lens they're used upon... either not shading it very well or causing vignetting. For a 28-300mm you'd have to get one that works with 28mm, which will be lousy at shading 300mm. They also tend to "collapse" at the worst possible times. One of the reasons I use a hood is for the physical protection it gives the lens (much better than a thin, glass "protection" filter ever could). Rubber hoods don't do that very well. I do have a few, but mostly just use them for things like shooting through a window, where pressing the rubber hood up against the glass can reduce reflections.

ecurb Loc: Metro Chicago Area

A thin strip of tape on one of the locking nubs on the lens had worked for me on a couple different lenses. Black masking tape or cloth camera tape.

rlynes Loc: Wisconsin

I used a similar method to Jimmy T's for my very old (and loose) 35mm f1.4 hood, although I put a light coat of nail polish on the hood channels & tabs, not the lens itself. Not too much polish, and let it dry thoroughly before using.

Doesn't snap in with a solid click like it used to, but it does snugly lock the hood on. Still works great after a couple of years.

lightyear

Whenever possible , I use a collapsible rubber lens hood. Most have a metal threaded rim that screws into the lens filter threads. Your 28mm WA will require a shallow lens hood. I always put the lens hood on the mounted lens and look through the viewfinder to make certain the hood does not vignette: look at an illuminated white surface ( ceiling?) with hood on, and at 28 mm. make sure that the corners are not darkened.