All manual vs shutter priority (Page 3): Maybe, is there are buildings or something to cause the shadows.

frankraney Loc: Clovis, Ca.

TriX wrote:

But if you’re panning with a car that drives through shadows, the optimal exposure can change by several stops during the pan.

Maybe, is there are buildings or something to cause the shadows.

SteveR Loc: Michigan

frankraney wrote:

Auto ISO would be for quickly changing lighting conditions. Since you're on a racetrack and that's not going to happen typically unless it's a cloudy day and clouds come over and drastically change the conditions full manual the way to go.

I have never considered using auto ISO, but I now can see its use in athletic events, as well, when semi-cloudy days are involved and the sun may be hidden at times but shine through at other times, the photographer never knowing when.

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

Timg30 wrote:

Debating topic with friends.

Scenario
High speed race cars.

Manual iso
Manual shutter speed
Manual fstop

Or
Auto iso
Shutter priority

What’s the pro con of each.

Have my opinion and preference but would like to hear other opinions.

Thanks

Personally I would never use Shutter Priority AE and Auto ISO at the same time. Those are two different modes of auto exposure and mixing them together makes little sense to me.

If lighting is consistent, I prefer to use fully manual exposure.... setting my own choice of shutter, aperture and ISO.

But lighting often isn't consistent enough to do that... maybe the actual lighting is changing. Or, maybe I'm tracking moving subjects in and out of shadows. Whatever the reason, there are times one form of auto exposure or another is called for.

If my primary concern is depth of field, be it shallow (large aperture) or deep (smaller aperture) and lighting is variable, I use Aperture Priority AE. I select the aperture and set the ISO myself, then let the camera determine a shutter speed.

If I'm most worried about freezing action (fast shutter speed) or causing deliberate motion blur effect (slower shutter), I use Shutter Priority AE. I select the shutter speed and the ISO, leaving it to the camera to decide what aperture to use.

When I really want to control both depth of field and how motion is rendered in my image, but also need to allow for variable lighting, I'll use Manual + Auto ISO auto exposure mode. I only use Auto ISO with Manual. (When you enable Auto ISO along with it, "Manual" is no longer manual... it becomes another AE mode.)

In all the auto exposure modes, it's important to keep an eye on what the camera is doing, so that adjustments can be made if necessary.

I very rarely use Program AE mode. Mostly I just use it in situations where I very quickly need to take a shot in radically different lighting than I'd been shooting and don't have time to think about or plan my exposure. Also, using Program this way, with the turn of one dial I can quickly return to the setup I was using for the previous shooting.

In all the AE modes, Exposure Compensation is available to "tweak" the exposure, should the subject be unusually dark or light tonalities.

All the exposure modes... both auto and manual... have their purposes. Someone who only does certain types of photography might never need to use them all. For example, someone who only shoots in a studio... say portraits or product shots... might never need to use any of the AE modes at all. But many photographers will benefit from at least learning how the various exposure modes work and being prepared to use any of them, as might needed for different situations.

frankraney Loc: Clovis, Ca.

SteveR wrote:

I have never considered using auto ISO, but I now can see its use in athletic events, as well, when semi-cloudy days are involved and the sun may be hidden at times but shine through at other times, the photographer never knowing when.

it is a matter of preference after all......just one way....there are others. see Alan's comment above.

Picture Taker Loc: Michigan Thumb

We all have a way to take pictures. The variations are from the subject (moving, posed, night landscape etc.) as well as our preferences or habit. Nothing is wrong with any. The only thing that could be wrong is not changing or giving ad vice not knowing the situation. If all fails "go professional" "P" or "A"
As to general advise learn you camera and have fun, even if it's work.

CatMarley Loc: North Carolina

frankraney wrote:

Auto ISO would be for quickly changing lighting conditions. Since you're on a racetrack and that's not going to happen typically unless it's a cloudy day and clouds come over and drastically change the conditions full manual the way to go.

I simply do not understand why someone would spend heaps of money on a machine that costs all that money because of all the engineering which provides automatic features such as auto ISO, auto aperture adjustment, auto shutter speed, and then proclaim that the only way to use such a marvel is to eschew all of its features and set EVERYTHING manually! I just don't get it! Please explain.... I really want to know!

Bullfrog Bill Loc: CT

They are old and set in their ways.

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

Fear of P mode defeats more photographers than any other setting on their camera.

CatMarley Loc: North Carolina

winhto wrote:

If you understand lighting, you'll never have to use auto regardless and you'll spend less time sitting in front of your computer. My camera is always set on M.

Nikon D750

I am sure then, you still drive a stick shift, and not one of those wussey automatics!

frankraney Loc: Clovis, Ca.

CatMarley wrote:

I simply do not understand why someone would spend heaps of money on a machine that costs all that money because of all the engineering which provides automatic features such as auto ISO, auto aperture adjustment, auto shutter speed, and then proclaim that the only way to use such a marvel is to eschew all of its features and set EVERYTHING manually! I just don't get it! Please explain.... I really want to know!

Cat, I Just like making my own decisions most of the time.....I don't always shoot in manual, just a lot of the time. Cameras (some) come with all those features so it give one a choice. Some Cameras only have auto modes and no manual mode. In the race track, I would probably set my aperture for my DOF and shutter for motion I wanted, and either auto ISO or set it manually, depending on if the light is changing a lot.

To me its more challenging to set things in manual. anyone can set A or P IMHO. Just me. To each his own.

CatMarley Loc: North Carolina

frankraney wrote:

Cat, I Just like making my own decisions most of t... (show quote)

You are challenging the camera? Demonstrating to yourself that YOU are as smart as the engineers who wrote the algorithms for all the automation? Why buy a Nikon 750 or 850? You are paying all that money for all that automation and then using the camera like a Brownie.

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

The surest way to corrupt a novice is to explain the importance of shooting in Manual.

frankraney Loc: Clovis, Ca.

CatMarley wrote:

You are challenging the camera? Demonstrating to yourself that YOU are as smart as the engineers who wrote the algorithms for all the automation? Why buy a Nikon 750 or 850? You are paying all that money for all that automation and then using the camera like a Brownie.

No, I'm challenging myself so I do no forget how to use one, and its rewarding to know that I did it, not the camera. I said, there are times I do not use full manual mode. I sometimes shoot in the different priority modes. I can not remember the last time I used Auto mode. I don't think they even make a camera with strictly manual mode. All the different modes are there by production. It's a matter of choice, not wasting money.

And its not heaps of money. A good P&S cost about as much, and would be the way to go if one does not like shooting in manual.

larryepage Loc: North Texas area

CatMarley wrote:

You are challenging the camera? Demonstrating to yourself that YOU are as smart as the engineers who wrote the algorithms for all the automation? Why buy a Nikon 750 or 850? You are paying all that money for all that automation and then using the camera like a Brownie.

Dr. Marley--

As soon as I can lose a little more weight, I am going to have knee replacement surgery. It will be robot-assisted. About 75 minutes start to finish. 125mm (or so) incision. Go home that afternoon or maybe the next morning. Released to drive in 4-5 weeks (might be a little optimistic...it's my right knee).

I get the idea that folks here would likely think I should have it done the "old-fashioned" way, just so the surgeon has to do the work I'm paying him to do. Three hours or more of surgery. Multiple days in the hospital (around all those sick people). Really big incision. Long recovery.

Glad thy aren't my doctor.

williejoha

Why are we even discussing this. We all shoot in the mode we like. But God forbid that I might learn something new.
WJH