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F-stop ring on manual lens used on DSLR
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Jul 2, 2020 17:17:49   #
graybeard
 
JimH123 wrote:
We really don't have an image to look at, and know very little about how the camera was set up. But if we suppose he was in aperture priority and had set the ISO rather high, it is possible the camera needed a faster shutter speed than it was able to go, ending up with an over exposed image. I don't know that Canon camera very well, and don't know if it tries to keep someone from shooting themself in the foot if the situation needs something the camera can't deliver. But I have encountered this issue with other cameras accidentally.
We really don't have an image to look at, and know... (show quote)


I was NOT in aperture setting, I was in manual. And my ISO generally is frozen at 100.

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Jul 2, 2020 17:45:21   #
JimH123 Loc: Morgan Hill, CA
 
graybeard wrote:
First, I shoot in manual (M). I normally have the ISO set to 100 and leave it. Then I generally set the SS next, to whatever I think is necessary to freeze/blur the subject. Finally, I deal with the aperture setting. With an automatic lens, I move the camera's aperture wheel to get the proper meter reading, no problem. With a manual lens, well, that is where I hit or miss. But I got several useful tips here, re the adapter, the lens slide switch and to use the lens aperture ring rather than the camera's aperture wheel. Lots of food for thought. Thanks to all.
First, I shoot in manual (M). I normally have the ... (show quote)


Sounds like its time to go give it another try. Let us know how it works out. Good luck.

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Jul 3, 2020 00:49:27   #
graybeard
 
JimH123 wrote:
Sounds like its time to go give it another try. Let us know how it works out. Good luck.


I took a long hard look at things today and am determined to get at the bottom of it. First, I have a Mamiya/Sekor 1.4 and a Pentagon 1.8 which both have M/A slider switches and a related pin on the base. Then I have a Sakar 3.5 zoom that does NOT have a slider, but does have a pin. Then I have an Industar 3.5 that doesn't have a slider or a pin! Second, I have M42-EOS adapters that are either flanged and chipped, or flanged and unchipped, or unflanged but chipped! So, lots of combinations. The flange on the adapter pushes in the pin and makes the slider, if present, irrelevant. But if unflanged, the pin is unaffected. The for sure wrong combo is unflanged with slider on A. With that combo the iris does not move when the aperture ring is adjusted. The chips "communicate" to the camera, just what they communicate is not clear to me. But I will learn this, starting with this flange/pin and the lens aperture ring closing down the iris (or not) depending on the various slider/pin/flange combinations.

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Jul 5, 2020 06:50:02   #
blackest Loc: Ireland
 
graybeard wrote:
I took a long hard look at things today and am determined to get at the bottom of it. First, I have a Mamiya/Sekor 1.4 and a Pentagon 1.8 which both have M/A slider switches and a related pin on the base. Then I have a Sakar 3.5 zoom that does NOT have a slider, but does have a pin. Then I have an Industar 3.5 that doesn't have a slider or a pin! Second, I have M42-EOS adapters that are either flanged and chipped, or flanged and unchipped, or unflanged but chipped! So, lots of combinations. The flange on the adapter pushes in the pin and makes the slider, if present, irrelevant. But if unflanged, the pin is unaffected. The for sure wrong combo is unflanged with slider on A. With that combo the iris does not move when the aperture ring is adjusted. The chips "communicate" to the camera, just what they communicate is not clear to me. But I will learn this, starting with this flange/pin and the lens aperture ring closing down the iris (or not) depending on the various slider/pin/flange combinations.
I took a long hard look at things today and am det... (show quote)


The chipped adapters will report lens details usually it's a 50mm you can see this in the exif information of a photo as well as the f-stop used. On the camera body you should be able to adjust the F-stop readout but it only causes problems unless you calculate the shutter speed yourself. Have a look at the exif and see what the camera thinks is happening.

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Jul 6, 2020 16:53:32   #
bull drink water Loc: pontiac mi.
 
I have two canon fd lenses that I mount on my Sony slt a-77. a 135mm f2.8 and a 200mm f2.8. with my a-77 the shutter won't trip in manual.i have to set it to A mode. I pick an aperture on the lens ring between f4.5 and f8.0. for a still shot or landscape I pick a iso between 50-200. for action shots iso 400-1600. one of those iso's will give me a suitable shutter speed. my main task will then be getting the subject in focus.

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Jul 6, 2020 21:14:54   #
CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City
 
bull drink water wrote:
I have two canon fd lenses that I mount on my Sony slt a-77. a 135mm f2.8 and a 200mm f2.8. with my a-77 the shutter won't trip in manual.i have to set it to A mode. I pick an aperture on the lens ring between f4.5 and f8.0. for a still shot or landscape I pick a iso between 50-200. for action shots iso 400-1600. one of those iso's will give me a suitable shutter speed. my main task will then be getting the subject in focus.


Look for a setting to release the shutter without a lens. My a7II has this setting.

I started with all manual exposure when I started with my FD lenses on Sony. I spent more time zeroing in the exposure than focusing and shooting. At the suggestion of others here at UHH, I changed to Auto ISO with +0.7 EC (in RAW) and either shutter priority or aperture priority. If the Dynamic range is too great and I'm getting exposure warnings on critical highlights, I just turn down the EC, rarely needing to go below 0 EC on this model for my shooting situations.

In Shutter Priority, I control the speed for stopping motion, but the camera will tend to raise the ISO above ISO-100. In Aperture priority, the camera will try to stay at ISO-100, but may make the shutter too slow to freeze the action and / or to hand-hold, even with the IBIS. I've gotten better at recognizing the situation and picking / adjusting the shooting mode. Similar to you, I adjust the lens aperture to the composition, adjust the camera mode (if needed) and just focus on focus and shooting, letting the camera handle the exposure.

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Jul 7, 2020 10:53:24   #
bull drink water Loc: pontiac mi.
 
CHG_CANON wrote:
Look for a setting to release the shutter without a lens. My a7II has this setting.

I started with all manual exposure when I started with my FD lenses on Sony. I spent more time zeroing in the exposure than focusing and shooting. At the suggestion of others here at UHH, I changed to Auto ISO with +0.7 EC (in RAW) and either shutter priority or aperture priority. If the Dynamic range is too great and I'm getting exposure warnings on critical highlights, I just turn down the EC, rarely needing to go below 0 EC on this model for my shooting situations.

In Shutter Priority, I control the speed for stopping motion, but the camera will tend to raise the ISO above ISO-100. In Aperture priority, the camera will try to stay at ISO-100, but may make the shutter too slow to freeze the action and / or to hand-hold, even with the IBIS. I've gotten better at recognizing the situation and picking / adjusting the shooting mode. Similar to you, I adjust the lens aperture to the composition, adjust the camera mode (if needed) and just focus on focus and shooting, letting the camera handle the exposure.
Look for a setting to release the shutter without ... (show quote)



release shutter without lens, it's been almost 2 yrs since I shot any camera. my CRS got in the way.

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