Flash Vivitar SF 4000
Jun 24, 2020 07:49:42 #
This is more mental challenge than need for help. I will buy a new one. I have already asked.(answer=capacitor). I am not so sure now.
I have this cheap flash used with Nikon 7100. It does not work right /or at all. Capacitor? set up?
1.Camera is in manual mode and located in dark room. Camera flash is set to minimum strength.
ISO 4000, 1/60 F 5.6 -> if only camera ... "picture" is black. Camera flash takes picture dark.(set to: -2)
2. If I mount the flash on top of camera - I get a bleached picture …. regardless of its setting.
3. If I move the flash into the 5' distance and use it as a slave, the flash fires, but very weak, so I do not see its impact and the difference in the picture . As a slave, it also incorporates the camera flash, right? I have tested this in all 4 modes of slave operation and all possible wide/zoom and set strength (distance on flash)
So, what can be the problem? I am clueless … so it must be something simple.
Enjoy the challenge and thank you for the participation in this teaser. Miro
I have this cheap flash used with Nikon 7100. It does not work right /or at all. Capacitor? set up?
1.Camera is in manual mode and located in dark room. Camera flash is set to minimum strength.
ISO 4000, 1/60 F 5.6 -> if only camera ... "picture" is black. Camera flash takes picture dark.(set to: -2)
2. If I mount the flash on top of camera - I get a bleached picture …. regardless of its setting.
3. If I move the flash into the 5' distance and use it as a slave, the flash fires, but very weak, so I do not see its impact and the difference in the picture . As a slave, it also incorporates the camera flash, right? I have tested this in all 4 modes of slave operation and all possible wide/zoom and set strength (distance on flash)
So, what can be the problem? I am clueless … so it must be something simple.
Enjoy the challenge and thank you for the participation in this teaser. Miro
Jun 24, 2020 08:22:27 #
i use a old flash that does not communicate with camera [ older D300 ], it will flash anytime the shutter is activated regardless of camera settings including speed .i can shoot up to 1/400 .put flash at camera hot shoe , set iso at 400 or so , F8 , 1/125 .start taking pictures indoor , then play with the flash output , start in a middle setting .
Jun 24, 2020 18:29:09 #
agillot - I appreciate your response, but it does not answer my question , why the flash is working OK while on camera and weak when it is in the slave mode. Miro
Jun 24, 2020 19:16:30 #
You have the manual? It seems that the flash has several slave modes. It appears that in the slave modes that you set it fires with the preflash.
Jun 24, 2020 21:28:56 #
S1: Instant synchronization. This device fires after it senses the first flash fired from the camera. S2: This device fires after it senses the second flash fired from the camera. S3: This device fires after it senses the third flash fired from the camera. S4: This device fires after it senses the fourth flash fired from the camera. After the Ready Light glows the device is ready to use. You should now switch the flash of your camera to “On”.
Previously somebody told me it is a weak capacitor, but from the camera body it fires strong . All 4 slave modes weak.
Previously somebody told me it is a weak capacitor, but from the camera body it fires strong . All 4 slave modes weak.
Jun 24, 2020 22:30:03 #
MiroFoto wrote:
agillot - I appreciate your response, but it does not answer my question , why the flash is working OK while on camera and weak when it is in the slave mode. Miro
Possibly cuz you never really asked an answerable question. Nobody knows what your master is or how it’s set up. So agillo just pointed out that he uses a predictable simple master ... contrasted with your mumbo jumbo situation. You could just follow his simple example.
You seem either unable or unwilling to describe much of anything you do. Flash is simple if you don’t muck it up.
Jun 24, 2020 23:19:08 #
.There are many possibilities. Troubleshooting without the camera and flash in hand is difficult, nevertheless here's a few ideas.
* It's not the defective or weak capacitor. Usually, a malfunctioning capacitor would totally disable the unit and would no cause erratic exposures- it just would not fire. If the capacitor is in the process of dying, you will usually hear banging, crackling, or popping sounds when the unit is trying to recycle and the ready-light would extinguish intermittently. Another symptom is smoke common form the unit or the odor of burning plastic.
* The flash may be incompatible with your camera model and will fire or synchronize but the TTL exposure control is not functional. This would account for under or overexposure.
* There could be a defect in the flash units circuitry, other than the capacitor- there is thyristor circuitry that increases and decreases the power output of the flash by squelching the flash duration at various levels according to the light entering through the lens.
* Setup? You shod consult the camera's and the flashes operation manual to learn the setup for both- the came has to "know" that flash is being activated, and the flash has to be set to jobe with the camera's system. Yo need top knows which mode or priority setting is needed to join the systems.
* You have to make certain the shutter speed is set within the synchronization range of the camera. If it is completely out of sync you will get a black frame in a darkened room or only a part of the frame will be exposed.
* If you want to find out of the flash is working in MANUAL mode, you can make your own guide number test. Set the ISo for 200, shoot a subject at exactly 10 feet from the camera-mounted flash, set the shutter at 1.125 sec. and make an exposure at each manual aperture setting at about 1/2 stop increments. Eg: f/ 2.8, 3.5, 4.5, 5.6, 6.3, 8, 9.5, 11. 12.5, 16, 18, and 22. If the best exposure is f/8 your guide number is 80. Then divide 80 by other distances so 5 feet would require f/16 and 15 feet id f/5.3 and so on. This is for direct flash only- bounced or modified flash techniques require exposure adjustment.
* Many of the currently manufactured units have too many automatic and command setting that can foul up if you don't know exactly how to make the initial setup. If you are using multiple flashes- one on-camera unit and an off-camera "slave", you have to expose for the off came to light and establish a ratio with the on-camera unit.
* If you understand the methods of correct exposure in full manual camera and flash modes you can bypass the automatic systems. If you are depending on the completely automated functions, you need to know exactly how to make the correct setup parameters and make certain that the camera and flash are compatible.
* If you do lots of serious flash photography, you might want to consider the purchase of a flash-meter.
* It's not the defective or weak capacitor. Usually, a malfunctioning capacitor would totally disable the unit and would no cause erratic exposures- it just would not fire. If the capacitor is in the process of dying, you will usually hear banging, crackling, or popping sounds when the unit is trying to recycle and the ready-light would extinguish intermittently. Another symptom is smoke common form the unit or the odor of burning plastic.
* The flash may be incompatible with your camera model and will fire or synchronize but the TTL exposure control is not functional. This would account for under or overexposure.
* There could be a defect in the flash units circuitry, other than the capacitor- there is thyristor circuitry that increases and decreases the power output of the flash by squelching the flash duration at various levels according to the light entering through the lens.
* Setup? You shod consult the camera's and the flashes operation manual to learn the setup for both- the came has to "know" that flash is being activated, and the flash has to be set to jobe with the camera's system. Yo need top knows which mode or priority setting is needed to join the systems.
* You have to make certain the shutter speed is set within the synchronization range of the camera. If it is completely out of sync you will get a black frame in a darkened room or only a part of the frame will be exposed.
* If you want to find out of the flash is working in MANUAL mode, you can make your own guide number test. Set the ISo for 200, shoot a subject at exactly 10 feet from the camera-mounted flash, set the shutter at 1.125 sec. and make an exposure at each manual aperture setting at about 1/2 stop increments. Eg: f/ 2.8, 3.5, 4.5, 5.6, 6.3, 8, 9.5, 11. 12.5, 16, 18, and 22. If the best exposure is f/8 your guide number is 80. Then divide 80 by other distances so 5 feet would require f/16 and 15 feet id f/5.3 and so on. This is for direct flash only- bounced or modified flash techniques require exposure adjustment.
* Many of the currently manufactured units have too many automatic and command setting that can foul up if you don't know exactly how to make the initial setup. If you are using multiple flashes- one on-camera unit and an off-camera "slave", you have to expose for the off came to light and establish a ratio with the on-camera unit.
* If you understand the methods of correct exposure in full manual camera and flash modes you can bypass the automatic systems. If you are depending on the completely automated functions, you need to know exactly how to make the correct setup parameters and make certain that the camera and flash are compatible.
* If you do lots of serious flash photography, you might want to consider the purchase of a flash-meter.
Jun 25, 2020 05:35:49 #
E L Shapiro
I know that the flash can sync with the hot shoe contact, with optical slave functions like the OP described above. The flash output is fixed and manual at only 1 level. No adjustment of any kind.
The problem is that when the op use off hot shoe it doesn't sync correctly.
I know that the flash can sync with the hot shoe contact, with optical slave functions like the OP described above. The flash output is fixed and manual at only 1 level. No adjustment of any kind.
The problem is that when the op use off hot shoe it doesn't sync correctly.
Jun 25, 2020 05:35:53 #
E L Shapiro
I know that the flash can sync with the hot shoe contact, with optical slave functions like the OP described above. The flash output is fixed and manual at only 1 level. No adjustment of any kind.
The problem is that when the op use off hot shoe it doesn't sync correctly.
I know that the flash can sync with the hot shoe contact, with optical slave functions like the OP described above. The flash output is fixed and manual at only 1 level. No adjustment of any kind.
The problem is that when the op use off hot shoe it doesn't sync correctly.
Jun 25, 2020 08:05:19 #
First of all - I did not want to insult agillot in any way, and sorry if he took it that way. Also I do not want to argue my description of the problem being clear. I tried to explain all the conditions involved. I also said … it is rather a curiosity question. The Vivitar flash is simple and manual rather minimal - but clear enough. OK that was the answer to the spanking for my language. If I can find who wrote it I would explain in PM …. but … is it worth it? PS: English is my 3rd/4th language, so please try to tolerate it.
M
E.L.Shapiro & BebuLamar - I appreciate you PhD evaluation and your time. I have to now go into your details and digest it. My mistake -> I just thought the 1/60 is the every flash synch (as default). And I do not think this cheap flash can do any sync/TTL. Thyristor is another cuss word which can be between the camera and slave. -> Bottom line : On camera , it flashes too much, Off camera , it flashes too little .
M
E.L.Shapiro & BebuLamar - I appreciate you PhD evaluation and your time. I have to now go into your details and digest it. My mistake -> I just thought the 1/60 is the every flash synch (as default). And I do not think this cheap flash can do any sync/TTL. Thyristor is another cuss word which can be between the camera and slave. -> Bottom line : On camera , it flashes too much, Off camera , it flashes too little .
Jun 25, 2020 17:45:41 #
I have, All 4 slave modes are the same- I will try again . As I wrote previously , I was told . it can be a weak capacitor ….but on the camera it fires strong .
Jun 25, 2020 17:48:56 #
BebuLamar - You asked about …. if I have a manual. I have answered - yes I have ….but my response got stuck in the computer . Sorry M
Jun 25, 2020 20:02:18 #
MiroFoto wrote:
BebuLamar - You asked about …. if I have a manual. I have answered - yes I have ….but my response got stuck in the computer . Sorry M
When you trigger the flash via the built in optical slave it fires at the wrong time thus it fires at the time the shutter not open. That is why I asked for the manual to find out which is the right slave mode for you to use. Also it's best to set your camera built in flash to work without any preflash.
When you mount the flash on the camera the hot shoe contact would fire it correctly. The flash always put out the same amount of light and you have to adjust the camera aperture, ISO and flash to subject distance to get the right exposure.
Jun 25, 2020 20:16:16 #
Besides use ISO 100 and f/5.6 or f/8.0. Without the flash with me nor the manual those are my guess the would give decent exposure with the flash mounted on the camera.
Try to set the flash mode of your camera to M. It's menu E3. Set the flash level some what less than full. Perhaps 1/4 or even less.
Try to set the flash mode of your camera to M. It's menu E3. Set the flash level some what less than full. Perhaps 1/4 or even less.
Jun 25, 2020 21:16:59 #
BebuLamar - I will try tomorrow ….I feel, you are right ….. The manual does not answer it , I think. But I screwed for sure . Setting camera to manual, I thought it is all I need. Now I see I have the flash set to TTL …..in camera , not the flash itself - it is not TTL smart, I believe. Let's see . Thanks Miro
If you want to reply, then register here. Registration is free and your account is created instantly, so you can post right away.