Bewick's Wren - Practicing for Sharpness: Trying to implement some concepts from CHG CANON's great post on obtaining sharp photos. In this case AI Servo combined with BBF, f/8 at 400...

globetrekker Loc: Bend, OR

Trying to implement some concepts from CHG CANON's great post on obtaining sharp photos. In this case AI Servo combined with BBF, f/8 at 400 mm for one of sharpest apertures of my lens at that length, and low ISO (though these are at ISO 500, not sure if that's considered low for a Canon 60D.) On the lower end, I guess. Could be better, but I think this is a good start.

Go check out the CHG CANON post:

https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-650295-1.html

(Download)

WessoJPEG Loc: Cincinnati, Ohio

globetrekker wrote:

Trying to implement some concepts from CHG CANON's great post on obtaining sharp photos. In this case AI Servo combined with BBF, f/8 at 400 mm for one of sharpest apertures of my lens at that length, and low ISO (though these are at ISO 500, not sure if that's considered low for a Canon 60D.) On the lower end, I guess. Could be better, but I think this is a good start.

Go check out the CHG CANON post:

https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-650295-1.html

Not very sharp.

John N Loc: HP14 3QF Stokenchurch, UK

Have to agree with WessoJPEG. Focussing is off and no amount of sharpening will bring it back.
I often had similar troubles with a 60D unless manually focussed. If it comes back to this spot several times set the camera up beforehand and focus on a nail or a screw in readiness.

Delderby Loc: Derby UK

globetrekker wrote:

Trying to implement some concepts from CHG CANON's great post on obtaining sharp photos. In this case AI Servo combined with BBF, f/8 at 400 mm for one of sharpest apertures of my lens at that length, and low ISO (though these are at ISO 500, not sure if that's considered low for a Canon 60D.) On the lower end, I guess. Could be better, but I think this is a good start.

Go check out the CHG CANON post:

https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-650295-1.html

Have a look at this one. I copied your download and used Easy Photo Unblur.

(Download)

Retired CPO Loc: Travel full time in an RV

Delderby wrote:

Have a look at this one. I copied your download and used Easy Photo Unblur.

Tell me more about "Easy Photo Unblur"

Delderby Loc: Derby UK

To Retired CPO.
Uses artificial intelligence to identify areas of a photo that need "unblurring" (From Soft Orbit.com).
Seems to have real slow-down / lock up problems with large files (JPGs over 16mb). Has worked well for me otherwise.
I have found that it can sharpen without creating noise and halos. There are five levels of sharpening and a few other related tools. There is a free trial period using an earlier version for thirty days. Google Easy Photo Unblur or SoftOrbit.com Costs around $25 but I think there are discounts to be found. No learning curve.

Zooman 1

Thanks for the info on SoftOrbit. Have not heard of them before. The wrens are challenging subjects. I would expect a good number of out of focus or less than sharp images. Otherwise well exposed.

Retired CPO Loc: Travel full time in an RV

Delderby wrote:

To Retired CPO. br Uses artificial intelligence to... (show quote)

Thanks very much, Delderby. I will definitely look into it.

globetrekker Loc: Bend, OR

Thanks for the honest feedback. Knew these weren't tack sharp, but they are perhaps not as sharp as I had initially thought. Shutter speed was fast. I assume hand shake was the problem. The wren was pretty close to me, so that probably magnified the shake.

Work to do!

Delderby Loc: Derby UK

globetrekker wrote:

Thanks for the honest feedback. Knew these weren't tack sharp, but they are perhaps not as sharp as I had initially thought. Shutter speed was fast. I assume hand shake was the problem. The wren was pretty close to me, so that probably magnified the shake.

Work to do!

Yes - it is a good start. I see you were using the lens at full stretch (400mm) Next time out try it at 375mm and 350mm. Most long zooms are at their best a little less than full stretch. Likewise, at the other end perhaps try 120mm instead of 100mm. 400mm is equiv to FF600mm - that's quite long - it might be better to up the shutter to 2000, at 400mm your lens will magnify any camera shake considerably. I squeeze my shutter button rather than press it. support the camera against something solid. Digital photos usually benefit from a little PP sharpening. This is due to anti-alias filters in front of the sensor.

globetrekker Loc: Bend, OR

Delderby wrote:

Yes - it is a good start. I see you were using the... (show quote)

Thanks for the tip to back off of 400. I mostly shoot birds and am almost always at 400. But I always crop anyway. If backing out a bit from full stretch will increase sharpness, that is worth doing.

Retired CPO Loc: Travel full time in an RV

globetrekker wrote:

Thanks for the tip to back off of 400. I mostly shoot birds and am almost always at 400. But I always crop anyway. If backing out a bit from full stretch will increase sharpness, that is worth doing.

I suggest you test your lens. If 400 is sharp I wouldn't waste the extra mm's. I had a Tamron 200~500 and yes, the long end was soft. I was lucky to get sharp 450mm out of it. I'm now using a Nikon 200~500 f5.6. It is very sharp from one end to the other and I use every mm of it. Just my .02 cents worth.

Delderby Loc: Derby UK

Retired CPO wrote:

I suggest you test your lens. If 400 is sharp I wouldn't waste the extra mm's. I had a Tamron 200~500 and yes, the long end was soft. I was lucky to get sharp 450mm out of it. I'm now using a Nikon 200~500 f5.6. It is very sharp from one end to the other and I use every mm of it. Just my .02 cents worth.

Yes - I've just googled a review of that lens which says it is sharp all the way to 400, and it does have IS, so probably a faster shutter is all that is needed?

globetrekker Loc: Bend, OR

Delderby wrote:

Yes - I've just googled a review of that lens which says it is sharp all the way to 400, and it does have IS, so probably a faster shutter is all that is needed?

Good to know. I'm also trying to keep my ISO low (not sure what the limit of low is for my Canon 60D). Since I'm also trying to shoot at f/8 to be in the widest part of the sharpness range of my lens at 400mm, sometimes the shutter speed is not fast enough. So at times I guess I'll either need to go to a wider aperture or a higher ISO.

Retired CPO Loc: Travel full time in an RV

You can go one or two stops either side of f/8 and still be in the sweet spot but a combination of a wider aperture and a slightly higher ISO is probably the ticket