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Sharpness distance
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May 25, 2020 13:38:15   #
PHRubin Loc: Nashville TN USA
 
E.L.. Shapiro wrote:
There are many mitigating factors that affect sharpness when photographing a distant subject- here are a few:

Lens quality, is the aperture set for maximum performance(?), focal length as per magnification, blur due to camer or subject movement or vibration such a mirror slap, filter usage, to camera movement, vibration, subject movement, and the accompanying shutter speed choice, atmospheric haze, Eastburn particles, pollution, interference caused by heat, degree of enlargement or extent of cropping of the final image, accuracy in focusing as per the photographer's technique or inconsistencies in the autofocus function, insufficient depth of the field to encompass all the necessary subject detail, and noise or lack thereof. There are other issues that may be mistaken for or exacerbate for sharpness problems such as loss of contrast due to flare or an intrinsically low scene contrast.

To diagnose any suspected shortcoming in sharpness, a download be image accompanied by the EXIF data is helpful as well as a description of the conditions as per the above list of possibilities.
There are many mitigating factors that affect shar... (show quote)


More comprehensive then I could have created! But NOT a function of distance istself.

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May 25, 2020 13:45:30   #
bhad
 
Thank you.

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May 25, 2020 14:41:46   #
Doc Barry Loc: Huntsville, Alabama USA
 
Frostbyte wrote:
I attached but I guess it didn’t keep the file. I don’t have the raw on my phone. Just the edit.


Nice photo, but I think it would have been better to have her moved to the right and get rid of the lamp. Also, F/2 would have made her a bit more 3D. Lighting is nice.

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May 25, 2020 15:35:24   #
frankraney Loc: Clovis, Ca.
 
Frostbyte wrote:
I attached but I guess it didn’t keep the file. I don’t have the raw on my phone. Just the edit.


As John and Paul said, the sharpest focus is on the wording.

EXIF says f1.2 and ss of 1/4000. Good for the time of day at 1p.m. Histogram is just slightly left. The photo is acceptably sharp and looks good at 100% Slightly soft in the face. It Looks as if you focused on the wording, not her eyes. But for a full body, this is ok (IMHO). How far away were you, 20 feet? that's what it looks like. I think a closer shot will make the eyes larger and appear sharper, if they're the focal point.

Take it again, have her move forward a few feet (this will blur the red maple more) and shoot at smaller f stop, like 1.8 or 2.0.

Another thing you can do to learn is get an app for your phone, like HyperFocal Pro. With it you can see what your results will be at different settings. It's a very good app.

I'm not as sharp as most here, but these are my thoughts.

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May 25, 2020 15:46:28   #
frankraney Loc: Clovis, Ca.
 
bhad wrote:
When one says “smaller” aperture setting, does it mean a LOWER f-stop number? Or higher number to make the aperture smaller? Thanks.


Smaller aperture is smaller opening, larger number.

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May 25, 2020 17:14:47   #
GLSmith Loc: Tampa, Fl
 
Unknown vendor of camera you use, but as a Nikon user, Nikon majj on es their bodies at one location, lenses at another, sensors are set with 1set of figures, lenses have their own. I shoot rockets with ling glass, i.e. 500 & 800 mm..I had to fine tune the lens to the specific body, suspect Canon & other vendors offer the same

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May 25, 2020 18:28:57   #
Harry0 Loc: Gardena, Cal
 
Start with the basics.
You need a great quality, accurate camera.
You need an immaculately cleaned sensor.
You need a great quality, accurate lens.
You need that lens to be immaculately clean.
You need that rig to be securely fastened to a sturdy well built tripod.
You need to check the lens, and make sure the subject is in the "sweet spot" of the DOF of that aperture.
Focus carefully, and use a timer or remote to operate the shutter.
NOTHING MOVES before, during and after: camera, subject, etc.
Then maybe ...

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May 25, 2020 18:36:01   #
E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada
 
PHRubin wrote:
More comprehensive then I could have created! But NOT a function of distance itself.


I realize that, however, like too many other photographers these days, the OP seems preoccupied with a sharpness to a fault. He wants to see macro-like detail in his subject's eyes in a full-length shot that may have been made a distance of 12 to 17feet depending on the focal length of the lens in use. The amount of enlargement necessary to hone in on the eyes, considering the "head size" in the image would reveal noise and may even begin to pixelate.

The other issues I mentioned all apply to distance such as atmospheric conditions which would not necessarily apply and closer distance. Longer lenses that are oftentimes used at a longer distance can exacerbate the possibility of blue due to the camera. movement or subject movement.

If one wants to test a lens for sharpness in a more precise and controlled manner to assess its performance, one should make certain that all the factors I mentioned or are under control or entirely negated as to camera's steadiness, a static detailed target, the use of a solid tripod, a locked-up mirror, a remote release, and an atmosphere with clear air, no filter, no flare, etc.

If there is a malfunction in the lens or camera, it will only reveal itself with all the other factors under control- it's a process of elimination of all the other possibilities.

Besides, the image the OP supplied is adequately sharp for a portrait.

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May 25, 2020 18:43:03   #
ZPhoto Loc: Lancaster, PA
 
imagemeister wrote:
- this is why the newer Sony's have Eye AF ....

It does appear you were at a very wide aperture maybe 1.2?? I love the back round rendering.

You may need a higher MP camera or sharper lens to render the eyes better from such a distance.
.


30mp not enough?

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May 25, 2020 20:10:24   #
SuperflyTNT Loc: Manassas VA
 
wmurnahan wrote:
With a 600mm, quite a distance. Have a photographer friend that was messing around, photographing his daughter and she wanted a portrait with the 600 and he used it. Gave it a very 3D effect the way it separated her from the foreground.


I took a shot of a friend with my 200-500 zoomed to 500. It looked like a total paparazzi shot.

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May 25, 2020 20:20:32   #
SuperflyTNT Loc: Manassas VA
 
I will agree that closing down a stop or two would help. I also think you’re a little farther than you need to be for a full length portrait. There’s a lot more space around her than needed.

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May 25, 2020 22:11:14   #
aellman Loc: Boston MA
 
John Sh wrote:
Looks like the focus point is in the word 'Female" on her shirt. You need to focus on the eyes then recompose. Also a smaller apertures setting would help. No Exif with the shot so I can't be more helpful than this.


I think there is a whole other issue. The subject has too much fill light. What happens in a case like this is the model looks like she's posing against a studio backdrop. I'm gonna take a wild guess that there should have been about half the fill.

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May 25, 2020 22:12:26   #
SuperflyTNT Loc: Manassas VA
 
aellman wrote:
I think there is a whole other issue. The subject has too much fill light. What happens in a case like this is the model looks like she's posing against a studio backdrop. I'm gonna take a wild guess that there should have been about half the fill.



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May 25, 2020 23:47:04   #
Frostbyte
 
Thanks for all the ideas and comments. Very helpful. Now to try and keep it all in memory.

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May 26, 2020 01:34:12   #
smussler Loc: Land O Lakes, FL - Formerly Miller Place, NY
 
E.L.. Shapiro wrote:
There are many mitigating factors that affect sharpness when photographing a distant subject- here are a few:

Lens quality, is the aperture set for maximum performance(?), focal length as per magnification, blur due to camer or subject movement or vibration such a mirror slap, filter usage, to camera movement, vibration, subject movement, and the accompanying shutter speed choice, atmospheric haze, Eastburn particles, pollution, interference caused by heat, degree of enlargement or extent of cropping of the final image, accuracy in focusing as per the photographer's technique or inconsistencies in the autofocus function, insufficient depth of the field to encompass all the necessary subject detail, and noise or lack thereof. There are other issues that may be mistaken for or exacerbate for sharpness problems such as loss of contrast due to flare or an intrinsically low scene contrast.

To diagnose any suspected shortcoming in sharpness, a download be image accompanied by the EXIF data is helpful as well as a description of the conditions as per the above list of possibilities.
There are many mitigating factors that affect shar... (show quote)


Your responses are always very informative. Very comprehensive list there, but I have to ask - What are Eastburn particles? Google search lead me nowhere. Spell check doesn't like it either, but then spell check doesn't like autofocus or EXIF either.

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