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Paper Wasp Up Close and Personal
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Apr 22, 2020 12:29:13   #
Wingpilot Loc: Wasilla. Ak
 
Ugly bugger, but a great shot. Nice work. Thanks for sharing.

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Apr 22, 2020 12:31:53   #
Earnest Botello Loc: Hockley, Texas
 
Great macro, Scott.

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Apr 22, 2020 16:25:18   #
SMPhotography Loc: Pawleys Island, SC
 
itsmeagain wrote:
What are the three things on top of it's head ?


Those are her 3 "simple" eyes. They differ markedly from her two large "compound eyes". Compound eyes are made up of numerous lenses where the simple eyes only have 1 lens. They are more sensitive to light than the compound eyes but do not form an image per se. The are used in winged insects to help maintain stability in flight.

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Apr 22, 2020 16:54:50   #
itsmeagain
 
Thank you.

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Apr 22, 2020 17:31:55   #
Dan' de Bourgogne
 
astonishingly deep sharp macro shot!
Is the insect alive? If yes, how did You manage it to keep it still while shooting more than 30 frames?

I often shoot macro with a "reversed" 50 mm Nikkor = with just a reverse ring.
But then, as soon I add about 56 mm extension tube (in fact, 3 rings screwed together), it becomes pitch dark in the viewfinder...setting focus becomes impossible if not under bright sun light!

Do You have the same difficulties...or do You use "a secret weapon"?
Anyway, well done...Love to see more of Your work.

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Apr 22, 2020 21:47:23   #
SMPhotography Loc: Pawleys Island, SC
 
Oh no, she is quite dead. I don't use the viewfinder, I use live view. The Nikon PB-6 bellows has a place on the front standard to insert a cable release. It allows you to focus wide open and then stop down to working aperture before you take the shot. If I am reversing a ring, I use the Nikon BR-6 which mounts on the lens mount and does the same thing with a cable release.

Since all of my lenses are manual focus AIS, it works great.

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Apr 22, 2020 22:19:08   #
Krystle Loc: Marion County, Florida
 
Breathtaking!!!

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Apr 23, 2020 07:48:46   #
Dan' de Bourgogne
 
Ah yes! I understand. Thanks a lot for this explanation
Focus staking: well, now I will also try to take several pictures by changing only a little bit the focus.
I'm curious to see if this will give the expected result! Why not after all?

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Apr 23, 2020 11:34:49   #
SMPhotography Loc: Pawleys Island, SC
 
Dan' de Bourgogne wrote:
Ah yes! I understand. Thanks a lot for this explanation
Focus staking: well, now I will also try to take several pictures by changing only a little bit the focus.
I'm curious to see if this will give the expected result! Why not after all?


Keep in mind, however, even with a macro lens, simply changing focus will also slightly change the magnification, which could interfere with aligning the images, especially in Photoshop. The best way to do it is to set your focus and leave it and then use something like a macro focusing rail to adjust the focus. That way the magnification remains constant and you will not get "ghosts" in the final image.

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Apr 23, 2020 12:30:51   #
Dan' de Bourgogne
 
oh, thank You for this information...till today I thought it should be the same focusing a macro lens and focusing with a macro rail...I was persuaded both would provide the same result = a sharp image
OK, next time I intend to shoot bugs or "nano world", I will borrow a macro rail a take the s

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Apr 23, 2020 15:51:32   #
SMPhotography Loc: Pawleys Island, SC
 
Dan' de Bourgogne wrote:
oh, thank You for this information...till today I thought it should be the same focusing a macro lens and focusing with a macro rail...I was persuaded both would provide the same result = a sharp image
OK, next time I intend to shoot bugs or "nano world", I will borrow a macro rail a take the s


If you are using a bellows, which I do for most of my macro and extreme macro photography, I set the distance between the front and rear standards based on how much magnification I want to get. There is a simple formula; (B-F)/F where B is bellows extension and F is focal length. The distances is measured from the film (or sensor) plane to the optical node of the lens, which for most lenses is where the diaphragm is located. Once I have set that distance, I then place the camera/lens/bellows set up on my macro rail, which is on a sturdy studio tripod, and adjust the macro rail until the front of the subject is in sharp focus. I hope this helps, if you have any questions, you can always email me at scottmurphyphotography@gmail.com.

You don't really need to borrow one, I got mine on Ebay for about $30. It can be adjustable front to back and side to side. Here is a similar one:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Way-Macro-Focusing-Rail-Slider-for-Close-up-Shooting-BGG/293507806424?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item44566db4d8:g:n04AAOSw0vJcH2wL&enc=AQAEAAACcIQvEcHUrT7nmUC3yY5qbPyaBN1nJEDYW8MyypsJPgXKMy1HQ5tqr4SizEZhU4A6p9ekblRyfB%2F03uwlVtE5cS%2FG4P8lSzNgjXpV116fkUjchgQCYffNbP73KibfWw3zqD8IiOLPJ%2BB7FIMgi23z%2Brr1i5gZPvHfbbBgWKMzZYVFFRwDHOy7ngQVqp7bkTaaOt9JGYt00OMHTWvLUax%2Blf1HGI%2FInNoQ6YuVTkWWXz%2BiTZjUJn0NLmMAfviZIh%2Fe5vUsz8JrmXvetZ52sRua9%2FGnYn8boddcvzTjueaz0oJNU4dfrJN9XlIhNoT6JghL%2BVTOYh6QmWqJLX3K9bnzqQyDmJNBIMClx%2BCCLiIPIyfCRnah0F5jkYXPOhM6JudbS0mVEcrJqPNWQIcr3ujf8joFTPDz4tYuzGUCBXEBobJMCXEVYn6zx%2FDHW4087tkgetXvszZq47vN2wf45WTSZrs6Ekn0SpO0yvPwGfKQ0YipXQ2s0a%2BcHDj8uiQy4PqhTXRAYq%2FfG2fl%2BkAvOR1fnA2KEpShsZ%2BbfSdVa8UHgtXY3ZkkLIaGlLKWjAvNpS7GYG1P9oMqX7aenQByWa6%2BL8GfMmN1Gf13A3JugfFPosmt85oBtNGSWsKGRgWqowRVohEBqz5CCfMN2n%2FnyR93C8gXuw2KiZOhrjS0dJVB0nqYxgmo1nC4oiCSJ%2Fxr%2F3y%2BRFtak%2FA4Co063MKCECWUkf5dhcTIR3Kfh%2F9xl%2FKR4wpcgqQx9qtdGpkZ1cdLyo3jzQoW22K741MYj%2FAWzgKPwIUb%2FHrQtCrXQY%2F0nxf9VF%2FJoUFs1fqhRxnMFY%2F6XIdhPg%3D%3D&checksum=293507806424e4248cd481cc45599e196aec535c2b53

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Apr 26, 2020 15:34:50   #
topcat Loc: Alameda, CA
 
Great work

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