Ugly Hedgehog - Photography Forum
Home Active Topics Newest Pictures Search Login Register
Main Photography Discussion
Manual Mode and ISO setting
Page <<first <prev 12 of 14 next> last>>
Apr 10, 2020 16:07:19   #
EastWest
 
I'm with James. I usually let the ISO float while controlling aperture and shutter. You can see the ISO value without taking the camera from your eye. If a frame is too dark or light there is an exposure compensation you can toggle in.

Reply
Apr 10, 2020 16:08:57   #
Elad1962
 
Hello Linda
beautifull photos
Most of the time I'm in manual,auto iso,works great for me

Reply
Apr 10, 2020 16:47:23   #
Danielmb
 
Linda...I am like you. Since I shoot both landscape and wildlife, I often float the ISO and if it needs any adjusting, I usually do that in Photoshop.

Reply
 
 
Apr 10, 2020 17:11:57   #
dave.m
 
Toment wrote:
Manual is manual
Hard to be creative when the camera changes the ISO 😖



I'm at a complete loss as to where ISO adds/ detracts from the creativity of the image.

ALL sensors have a 'base sensitivity' typically at the lowest published ISO value (but not always). Sometimes called the Base ISO or Native ISO

ALL images are sensed at the base sensitivity, the ISO setting - manual or auto - just amplifies or not the resulting image - ie just brightens the resulting image to the proportion set by the ISO setting. As an example Canon sensors use hardware amplification for whole stops and software for intermediate. So any ISO setting above base ISO is a hardware or software amplification, nothing more. A given ISO setting has no effect at all on perceived sharpness because the pixel spacing of a sensor is fixed and invariate - a 20Mpx sensor is 20Mpx with the same pixel spacing no matter what ISO is selected.

Very high ISO settings can cause chromatic or Luminance noise. This is NOT because of the manual or auto ISO setting, it is because just not enough light hits the sensor at base ISO for the sensor to determine the correct colour (chroma) or even enough light at all (luminance)

The great benefit of ISO settings is that it gives the photographer the ability to select automatically or manually the shutter speed / lens aperture that allows him or her to manage DoF and / or blur to their creative choice. This is a huge advantage over film where the A.S.A choice was made for all current images the moment the film was put in the camera.

So back to my original point, if ISO settings are just a hardware or software amplification of the base ISO sensitivity, sort out aperture or shutter speed you want - or both if you prefer - and let the internal computer take care of the sensor amplification (ISO)

Reply
Apr 10, 2020 17:27:28   #
bleirer
 
dave.m wrote:
I'm at a complete loss as to where ISO adds/ detracts from the creativity of the image.

ALL sensors have a 'base sensitivity' typically at the lowest published ISO value (but not always). Sometimes called the Base ISO or Native ISO

ALL images are sensed at the base sensitivity, the ISO setting - manual or auto - just amplifies or not the resulting image - ie just brightens the resulting image to the proportion set by the ISO setting. As an example Canon sensors use hardware amplification for whole stops and software for intermediate. So any ISO setting above base ISO is a hardware or software amplification, nothing more. A given ISO setting has no effect at all on perceived sharpness because the pixel spacing of a sensor is fixed and invariate - a 20Mpx sensor is 20Mpx with the same pixel spacing no matter what ISO is selected.

Very high ISO settings can cause chromatic or Luminance noise. This is NOT because of the manual or auto ISO setting, it is because just not enough light hits the sensor at base ISO for the sensor to determine the correct colour (chroma) or even enough light at all (luminance)

The great benefit of ISO settings is that it gives the photographer the ability to select automatically or manually the shutter speed / lens aperture that allows him or her to manage DoF and / or blur to their creative choice. This is a huge advantage over film where the A.S.A choice was made for all current images the moment the film was put in the camera.

So back to my original point, if ISO settings are just a hardware or software amplification of the base ISO sensitivity, sort out aperture or shutter speed you want - or both if you prefer - and let the internal computer take care of the sensor amplification (ISO)
I'm at a complete loss as to where ISO adds/ detra... (show quote)


It's interesting to see how ISO kills dynamic range on different cameras. Reminds one why staying near the base is important. https://photonstophotos.net/Charts/PDR.htm

Reply
Apr 10, 2020 17:30:47   #
VTMatwood Loc: Displaced Vermonta in Central New Hampsha
 
I find that Auto ISO is very useful when shooting fast moving subjects in changing light. I don’t use it for landscapes, but absolutely for birds and other wildlife. At least with Nikon DSLR’s, you can set the max ISO setting as a way to prevent Auto ISO from going crazy...not sure about other manufacturers’ cameras.

Reply
Apr 10, 2020 20:06:42   #
speters Loc: Grangeville/Idaho
 
augieg27 wrote:
I have searched, read and looked (including this forum) for an answer to this question:
In manual mode you control the settings and don't allow the camera to do it, OK, but if after you set the shutter speed and aperture and have the right exposure, how about the ISO?
Do you also set the ISO or use auto ISO?

Perhaps this question have addressed and I missed it.

Thank you for your assistance.

Augie


I shoot a lot in manual, thats what I set first, the ISO, I take one look outside and consider what it is I'm going to shoot, then I know what my ISO has to be!

Reply
 
 
Apr 10, 2020 20:24:48   #
Sidwalkastronomy Loc: New Jersey Shore
 
Called Canon while back and they said for my canon 77d I'm safe with noise up to 800.
After that do test shots and see noise is within my tolerance

Reply
Apr 11, 2020 01:14:47   #
Besperus Loc: Oregon
 
Back in the film days...you set the ASA, ISO equivalent, on the camera first. Or on a newer camera the film set it for you (35 mm) automatically. You could do the same thing. Then adjust exposure in your imaging program.

Reply
Apr 11, 2020 01:14:50   #
Besperus Loc: Oregon
 
Back in the film days...you set the ASA, ISO equivalent, on the camera first. Or on a newer camera the film set it for you (35 mm) automatically. You could do the same thing. Then adjust exposure in your imaging program.

Reply
Apr 11, 2020 11:34:41   #
Ysarex Loc: St. Louis
 
selmslie wrote:
You will get some push-back on that.

Exposure is the quantity of light hitting the sensor - the total number of photons if we could count them. It's a function of only the aperture and shutter speed.

selmslie wrote:

Set your camera's ISO to 400 and pick any of the auto exposure methods - aperture priority, shutter priority or program mode.

Aim it at a subject and note the exposure.

Now change the ISO to 100, note the exposure and then to 1600 and note the exposure.

Did changing the ISO result in a change of exposure? Of course it did!

That's because ISO is a determinant of exposure.

Turn to Scotty for the definitive answer!

Reply
 
 
Apr 11, 2020 11:59:21   #
bleirer
 
Ysarex wrote:
Turn to Scotty for the definitive answer!


Actually I think both of those statements are true, because he is talking about the metering system. A high ISO forces the indicated metered exposure (f stop and shutter speed) into lower exposure according to the meter, so as he said it is a determinant of shutter speed and f stop exposure. He didnt say ISO was the exposure.

Reply
Apr 11, 2020 12:07:11   #
BebuLamar
 
bleirer wrote:
Actually I think both of those statements are true, because he is talking about the metering system. A high ISO forces the indicated metered exposure (f stop and shutter speed) into lower exposure according to the meter, so as he said it is a determinant of shutter speed and f stop exposure. He didnt say ISO was the exposure.

I agree. The 2 of them were fighting for words.

Reply
Apr 11, 2020 12:12:43   #
larryepage Loc: North Texas area
 
Leinik wrote:
Not that simple. The camera makes choices according on an algorithm (program) defined by studies of the "average" photographers' practices. Your lowest usable shutter speed may not be mine. The algorithm is also informed by the camera and will know (if lens and camera "communicate") which lens you are using and will modify the lowest shutter speed (or ISO) accordingly avoiding potential motion blur. In other words at some point using anything auto you relinquish your choices (and often creativity) to the designers of the program in your camera. Fully manual you make all the choices... your choice ;o) It all depends on the level of practice or mastery of the tools... so no straightforward answer except personal (for the above-mentioned reasons).
Not that simple. The camera makes choices accordin... (show quote)


I have had several Nikon cameras...starting with the D200 and progressing to the D850. None of them use an "algorithm based on 'average' photographers' practices" to set exposure values in Program mode. They all assign exposure using a relationship which is displayed very clearly in the Owner's Manual. And there is absolutely nothing weird or even unusual about it. The relationship, which is shown on a graph in the manuals, is, in fact a very simple function pairing shutter speeds and lens apertures. That relationship generally seeks to avoid both extreme apertures and extreme shutter speeds. And there is absolutely no lock on the functional relationship. Exposure Compensation can effectively shift everything to provide more or less exposure for a given light level, and the command dials can be quickly and easily used to easily shift exposure settings to quickly favor higher or lower shutter speeds or wider or narrower lens openings while preserving proper net exposure settings.

By the way...I worked in the factory that produced the group of integrated circuits that controlled exposure in the Canon AE-1 many years ago. As far as I know, this was the first (or at least one of the first) cameras that was capable of controlling both shutter speed and lens aperture in a coordinated way to set exposure. That system worked exactly the same way, except I don't remember command dials to shift exposure choices). The circuits that we built back in the late 1970s or early 1980s (I can't remember exactly when) had nowhere near enough capacity or power to do a lot of calculations. Looking up combinations in a table in a very small memory chip was just about the limit of what they could accomplish.

The level of misinformation spread through the photographic community just astounds me. It should be no surprise that we sometimes struggle to learn the way things really work or why things are the way they are. The truth is buried under way too many layers of myth and lore.

And no, Leinik, this is in no way intended as a personal attack against you. But it is an expression of frustration with whoever misinformed you, and whoever misinformed that person, and so on, all the way back up the "educational" tree.

Reply
Apr 11, 2020 14:03:05   #
bleirer
 
larryepage wrote:
I have had several Nikon cameras...starting with the D200 and progressing to the D850. None of them use an "algorithm based on 'average' photographers' practices" to set exposure values in Program mode. They all assign exposure using a relationship which is displayed very clearly in the Owner's Manual. And there is absolutely nothing weird or even unusual about it. The relationship, which is shown on a graph in the manuals, is, in fact a very simple function pairing shutter speeds and lens apertures. That relationship generally seeks to avoid both extreme apertures and extreme shutter speeds. And there is absolutely no lock on the functional relationship. Exposure Compensation can effectively shift everything to provide more or less exposure for a given light level, and the command dials can be quickly and easily used to easily shift exposure settings to quickly favor higher or lower shutter speeds or wider or narrower lens openings while preserving proper net exposure settings.

By the way...I worked in the factory that produced the group of integrated circuits that controlled exposure in the Canon AE-1 many years ago. As far as I know, this was the first (or at least one of the first) cameras that was capable of controlling both shutter speed and lens aperture in a coordinated way to set exposure. That system worked exactly the same way, except I don't remember command dials to shift exposure choices). The circuits that we built back in the late 1970s or early 1980s (I can't remember exactly when) had nowhere near enough capacity or power to do a lot of calculations. Looking up combinations in a table in a very small memory chip was just about the limit of what they could accomplish.

The level of misinformation spread through the photographic community just astounds me. It should be no surprise that we sometimes struggle to learn the way things really work or why things are the way they are. The truth is buried under way too many layers of myth and lore.

And no, Leinik, this is in no way intended as a personal attack against you. But it is an expression of frustration with whoever misinformed you, and whoever misinformed that person, and so on, all the way back up the "educational" tree.
I have had several Nikon cameras...starting with t... (show quote)


Actually I think they are talking about matrix/evaluative metering and I think they are correct, that the meter in that mode uses an algorithm derived from common situations like backlighting, where the matrix system adjusts the indicated exposure if it matches one of the non-standard situations.

Jump to the matrix section in this article

https://photographylife.com/understanding-metering-modes/amp

Reply
Page <<first <prev 12 of 14 next> last>>
If you want to reply, then register here. Registration is free and your account is created instantly, so you can post right away.
Main Photography Discussion
UglyHedgehog.com - Forum
Copyright 2011-2024 Ugly Hedgehog, Inc.