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What portrait lens to buy part 2
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Mar 8, 2020 12:19:43   #
JD750 Loc: SoCal
 
out4life2016 wrote:
<snip>.. I am getting more and more request for photos done outdoors using different things for backdrops. By request of clients some want the background blurred and some want some focus on the background. I am still learning to work with clients as before my interest was more into landscape and animal photos.

In closing I need a portrait lens that I can use for outdoor models.


Both of those lenses will work fine for what you describe, wide vs shallow DOF is a matter of settings and positioning.

For outdoor “lifestyle” portraits you might want to include some of the surroundings for context, but still keep the main focus on the customers. There is a delicate balance here and my advice is to shoot both ways and depending on customers and surroundings see which way works better.

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Mar 8, 2020 13:58:07   #
amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA
 
First, I'm going to be brutally honest.... You need to work on lighting and posing techniques... And you need to watch your backgrounds more closely. You already have three good lenses for portraiture... you don't really need another. It won't "solve your problems".

Second, if you still get another lens, your best bet would be either:

- Canon EF 135mm f/2L USM or...
- Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM (any version).

The 135mm has more potential to blur down backgrounds. The zoom lens would be more versatile for those times when you can't "zoom with your feet" quickly enough (i.e., with subjects like kids and pets, that are less easily posed for portraits).

Other brand 70-200mm f/2.8 might substitute for the Canon zooms, but be careful to research image quality (Note: The-digital-picture.com has an "image quality" tool that allows side-by-side comparison of test shots from various lenses.... you can read detailed reviews of and compare most 70-200/2.8 that fit Canon at that site).

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Mar 8, 2020 14:05:36   #
camerapapi Loc: Miami, Fl.
 
I am the person that recommended to you a 135 mm lens and I did recommend the lens because you clearly specified that you wanted another portrait lens. I am in full agreement with those members that have recommended that you keep what you have and learn better portrait techniques. The first image is pretty soft, I believe the result of converting to a compressed JPEG file. The second shows a good bouket although the posing needs improvement. In the third shot the flash overpowers the background and screams flash photography. I was not there but if it was possible to mix flash and ambient light I would have done so.

Now that I have seen your images I am convinced that you do not need another portrait lens.

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Mar 8, 2020 14:44:12   #
ShooterRod
 
Your first photo is so soft as to be blurred...right on the edge.
So, if you shot it that way you can never really alter it...
If you shot it sharp, then you can do what you want in the processing.

Just another thing to consider in the battle of portraiture.

Also, years ago everyone was using 135mm...then 100mm became THE size...now it seems 85mm is what flips skirts. I'm a tweeter at 100mm, and shoot the subject sharp...the background can be handled when you shoot by aperture, or when you process.

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Mar 8, 2020 17:48:27   #
BebuLamar
 
out4life2016 wrote:
There were so many responses and most I guess needed more detail so I wanted to add. As mentioned before I am shooting a Canon 6DMARKII and I own a 50mm and a 85mm F1.8 USM models. They are great lens and have attached a photo of one recent shoot in my living room with lighting and umbrella set.
My reason for asking is because I am getting more and more request for photos done outdoors using different things for backdrops. By request of clients some want the background blurred and some want some focus on the background. I am still learning to work with clients as before my interest was more into landscape and animal photos.
1st photo is shot with 50mm indoors with lighting.
2nd photo is shot outdoors with Godox speed light mounted to stand and remote on camera hotshoe.
3rd was very first actual person I worked with and was shot with 24-105mm f4 IS lens with Godox speed light mounted directly to the camera.
In closing I need a portrait lens that I can use for outdoor models. All these were shot hand help but do own and use a ball head made by Hedysn with a supporting weight of up to 17 pounds since I bought it to use my 150-600mm Tamron G2 lens for shooting Eagles with.
There were so many responses and most I guess need... (show quote)


You're a real pro!

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Mar 8, 2020 17:51:06   #
out4life2016 Loc: Bellingham, Washington
 
BebuLamar wrote:
You're a real pro!


Actually I’m not and I’m not even close but I do try to get better as time goes on.

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Mar 8, 2020 18:45:14   #
rwoodvira
 
I've shot with a 24-105 or equivalent (when I shot APS-C). I shot film with Nikon, moved to Canon with digital and moved to Sony. The latter's 24-105 is really great.

It's always worked for me. If you want a non-zoom mosy of the manufacturers have a good 85.

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Mar 8, 2020 20:05:25   #
burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC
 
out4life2016 wrote:
There were so many responses and most I guess needed more detail so I wanted to add. As mentioned before I am shooting a Canon 6DMARKII and I own a 50mm and a 85mm F1.8 USM models. They are great lens and have attached a photo of one recent shoot in my living room with lighting and umbrella set.
My reason for asking is because I am getting more and more request for photos done outdoors using different things for backdrops. By request of clients some want the background blurred and some want some focus on the background. I am still learning to work with clients as before my interest was more into landscape and animal photos.
1st photo is shot with 50mm indoors with lighting.
2nd photo is shot outdoors with Godox speed light mounted to stand and remote on camera hotshoe.
3rd was very first actual person I worked with and was shot with 24-105mm f4 IS lens with Godox speed light mounted directly to the camera.
In closing I need a portrait lens that I can use for outdoor models. All these were shot hand help but do own and use a ball head made by Hedysn with a supporting weight of up to 17 pounds since I bought it to use my 150-600mm Tamron G2 lens for shooting Eagles with.
There were so many responses and most I guess need... (show quote)


Use what you have. You need experience and knowledge.

Download Canon Digital Photo professional from Canon’s Downloads site, and install it. It’s a great raw converter (but not a great workflow tool).

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Mar 8, 2020 23:14:41   #
DaveyDitzer Loc: Western PA
 
out4life2016 wrote:
Thank you
Maybe I should invest the money into knowledge or detiectional guides to using light room and photoshop. The I’m just getting tired of shooting the same landscapes and I tend to work well with people so I thought why not

I agree that you should mount the 85mm and leave it there and experiment. Also, you can buy an older version of PS (not a subscription version) and just keep working on the RAW files until you start getting the look you want. I have both a ver. 12 and 18 on each of two computers and after installation, they've cost me nothing more. That's how I'm learning.

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Mar 8, 2020 23:16:03   #
DaveyDitzer Loc: Western PA
 
CHG_CANON wrote:
LR is non destructive, so whether you start from RAW or JPEG, you can't "destroy" the initial file and can always revert back to the original if you find yourself on a deadend. The suggestion above for free video training in portrait photography is equally applicable for Adobe software training. I forget from our earlier discussions if we set-up a dropbox. If interested in looking at the technical details of the original files and ideas for LR processing, shoot me your personal email address via a PM and we can look into the details, specifically the AF mode and AF point locations. One of the magics of LR is the ability to share edits back n forth so you can import in a DNG file and see all the slider changes made. I've found this approach very effective as showing how the LR tools combine together to accomplish an edited result.
LR is non destructive, so whether you start from R... (show quote)


PS, take up Chg_Canon on his offer to help

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