bpulv Loc: Buena Park, CA

The biggest problem with aquarium photography or any time you are shooting through a window is glare and reflections from what is behind you. I have found that using a LenSkirt https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=lenskirt&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ma&Top+Nav-Search= is the best solution. You can use off camera flash in an aquarium by using the LenSkirt and holding the flash about arms length away from the lens. That way the reflected light will be reflected back to the flash rather than to the camera.

chapjohn Loc: Tigard, Oregon

Use a circular polarizing filter, it is a must in aquariums. f5.6 should give enough DOF. 1.4, 1.8, 2.8 don't give you enough DOF and will cause focusing issues. Shutter speed at 250 or higher. High ISO, 6400 will allow you to get the fast shutter speed. Use auto WB as there is mixed lighting, trust the camera. As for a lens I am usually at 35mm - 50mm. I use a 24-105 lens because at times I want a little more reach. A rubber hood is helpful as it will keep some unwanted light from hitting the lens.

Bike guy Loc: Atlanta

Very Nice

Tinkwmobile

I got a lot of good pics at the aquarium in ATL. Careful of reflections, take pics at slight angle if necessary. Best pics I took were of jellyfish, blue lights made a great photo, now on metal.
I used my Olympus 1.4, 17 as I remember.

HatsuoHiga Loc: Hawaii

The best I have seen is the Churaumi in Okinawa. The place was the set for the Ocean Expo in the early 80's, and the place is huge. There are several escalators to go from place to place, or trolley shuttles. There is a huge aquarium with 2 whale sharks (jimbei is the japanese name) there used to be 3 whale sharks when I first visited the place, and another aquarium with a good dolphin show. The place is always full with many tourists standing watching the show.

Fotoartist Loc: Detroit, Michigan

LenSkirt is a nice item for situations like this. I like it. But with flash you can stop movement better and get better resolution and color as in these shots. Shot at ISO 200, f 22, TTL flash. However you must use the flash against the glass and you won't have to worry about reflections. You can ditch the polarizer then too. Be aware, some aquariums prohibit flash.

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cahale Loc: San Angelo, TX

Get one of the rubber round lens hoods, and take shots with it pressed lightly against the glass. This will eliminate almost all glare, and be nearly as good as (the camera) actually being in the water. Also, shoot with as fast a shutter as you can get away with. Bring up the exposure in post processing (pp to those lazy persons out there).

retfyrman

I used off camera flash at the Monterey Bay Aquarium(when you could use flash) and I held the flash flush against the glass or at a 45 degree angle. Great results!!

JeffR Loc: Rehoboth Beach, Delaware

I've been to a lot of aquariums, but I've never been to one that allowed flash. I wouldn't use a flash even if it were allowed, as it would be extremely intrusive on the other visitors.

Scottty Loc: Portland,Oregon

Fantastic shot

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

Yes, this is a good idea.

If you use the rubber hood trick, it also makes it possible to use flash.... However, flash may not be allowed (check with the aquarium).

You also might find a quality circular polarizing filter helpful, controlling reflections off the glass (when you can't use the rubber hood/pressed against glass trick). I would recommend a "High Transmissive" (HT) C-Pol, such as the B+W F-Pro and XS-Pro series. HT C-Pol aren't as dark as typical polarizing filters. They block less light, which may be very useful if you need to use one in a dimly lit situation. A "standard" C-Pol blocks approx. 1.5 to 2.25 stops of light, depending upon the filter's setting. In comparison, the HT C-Pol block approx. 1 to 1.5 stops. That may not seem like a whole lot, but in low light situations it might be the difference between being able to "get the shot" or not.

Depending upon what lighting is used, you also might need to set a custom white balance. Be sure to know how to do that and to have a WB target available.

Shoot RAW (or RAW + JPEG). RAW files will need post-processing, but allow much more flexibility than JPEGs to adjust exposure, change white balance, control noise reduction and more.

Bike guy Loc: Atlanta

Great advice
Thanks

JoSkalka Loc: San Diego, CA

I would recommend the the 50mm 1.8 with a rubber hood; I think I bought mine from Amazon pretty inexpensively. Get there when they open so you can stay ahead of all the fingerprints on the glass and wear black or dark clothing to minimize your own reflection.

aellman Loc: Boston MA

I would get a rubber lens hood and put the hood touching the glass. Be careful about white balance.