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Dec 16, 2019 10:35:35   #
jackm1943 Loc: Omaha, Nebraska
 
A. T. wrote:
Hedgehog family,

My question is this......if you are on f/2.8, everyone on that same focus plane should be in focus, correct?


Unless you are using a true macro lens, the plane of sharp focus will be slightly curved. You have to keep that in mind when setting up your image.

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Dec 16, 2019 10:36:46   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
bleirer wrote:
https://www.photopills.com/calculators/dof

Yes, the plane of sharp focus is flat and parallel to the sensor. Except for perhaps aberrations/distortions that can happen at the edges.

Check out the calculator and a real nice article that explains it all. https://www.photopills.com/articles/depth-of-field-guide.

It depends on your focal length and distance to the subject. The plane of sharpest focus is infinitely small, but but the range of acceptable focus varies.


Ah - no. Nearly all lenses have field curvature - and the problem can be worse with fast lenses and zoom lenses. Generally speaking, macro lenses and perspective control lenses (shift and tilt/shift) have better correction for field curvature but do not have a perfectly flat plane of sharp focus.

https://petapixel.com/2016/12/21/field-curvature-tricky-problem-photography/

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Dec 16, 2019 10:40:18   #
JD750 Loc: SoCal
 
jerryc41 wrote:
Yes, provided everyone is still enough for the aperture you're using.

That could make a funny group picture. Use a fairly slow shutter speed, and have one person move his head around quickly. The result would be a picture featuring one person with a fuzzy head.


I saw a photo exhibit at at The Annenberg Space for Photography, where the artist used that technique except 1 person was still and all the others were moving. I found it to be a very unique way to achieve separation and direct viewers to the subject.

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Dec 16, 2019 10:59:14   #
knelso4
 
bleirer wrote:
https://www.photopills.com/calculators/dof

Yes, the plane of sharp focus is flat and parallel to the sensor. Except for perhaps aberrations/distortions that can happen at the edges.

Check out the calculator and a real nice article that explains it all. https://www.photopills.com/articles/depth-of-field-guide.

It depends on your focal length and distance to the subject. The plane of sharpest focus is infinitely small, but but the range of acceptable focus varies.


Is it a plane of focus or partial sphere with constant radius from the center?

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Dec 16, 2019 11:04:35   #
jeep_daddy Loc: Prescott AZ
 
A. T. wrote:
Hedgehog family,

My question is this......if you are on f/2.8, everyone on that same focus plane should be in focus, correct?


Yup

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Dec 16, 2019 11:32:42   #
Oly Guy
 
To get everything to be focused use a setting like 5 or 7.0 that increases you're DOF. and works better for large group shots with the same iso and shutter speed. Shoot Manual to control those things preferably.

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Dec 16, 2019 11:34:01   #
nadelewitz Loc: Ithaca NY
 
A. T. wrote:
Hedgehog family,

My question is this......if you are on f/2.8, everyone on that same focus plane should be in focus, correct?


Regardless of what the aperture is, everything on THE SAME subject plane, which is ABSOLUTELY PARALLEL to the sensor in the camera, should be in focus.

It's the "absolutely parallel" and "same subject plane" that can be hard to ascertain.

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Dec 16, 2019 11:36:41   #
Toment Loc: FL, IL
 
A. T. wrote:
I thought so but wanted to get confirmation. I'm a rookie (18 months) DSLR photographer but have done quite a bit of reading, watching videos, studying and loads of practice so I'm very familiar with the exposure triangle and different lighting situations; however, taking photos of groups is still a challenge for me at times. I think my problem is a lack of confidence so I tend to bump up the aperture in group settings to ensure sharpness but end up introducing noise from too hight of an ISO setting. I'll put in some much needed practice with this scenario to help boost my confidence.

Thanks a bunch.
I thought so but wanted to get confirmation. I'm ... (show quote)


Lighting is very important.
Probably the most important...

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Dec 16, 2019 12:21:22   #
speters Loc: Grangeville/Idaho
 
billnikon wrote:
NO, lenses are curved, so even at 2.8 (which is wide open on many lenses) things on the edges of your frame may not be in focus because lenses are not flat, they are curved, so if the middle is in focus, the edges may or may not be, it depends on a lot of variables.


The curvature of the front element has nothing to do with the sharpness throughout!

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Dec 16, 2019 12:44:50   #
jackm1943 Loc: Omaha, Nebraska
 
nadelewitz wrote:
Regardless of what the aperture is, everything on THE SAME subject plane, which is ABSOLUTELY PARALLEL to the sensor in the camera, should be in focus.

It's the "absolutely parallel" and "same subject plane" that can be hard to ascertain.


If the field of non-macro lenses has curvature, how can it be "absolutely parallel" to the sensor (provided the sensor is flat)?

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Dec 16, 2019 13:22:16   #
Vietnam Vet
 
You can use the depth of field preview button to check on what is in focus

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Dec 16, 2019 13:41:05   #
E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada
 
Shooting a group at f/2.8 is not a good idea- it is not practical. It is probable that even if everyone is shoulder to shoulder, there is going to be someone out of step and out of focus. You may be slightly out of parallel with the group. A posed formal or semi-formal group can usually be set up in reasonable lighting conditions so extremely high ISO settings or your widest aperture should not usually be required. Large groups do not usually look aesthetically pleasing or well composed with everyone in one single row. You need more crowd of people at various elevations and utilizing the depth of field to bring everyone into acceptable focus

Folks get too hung up on extreme technicalities. If you stop down to f/8 more, your lens will not turn into the bottom of a shot glass and introduce crazy diffraction. Shooting at ISO 400, 800, or 1200, or even more, on modern cameras will not produce unacceptable noise. Probably you are not producing photo murals or billboards. A decent normal or moderately wide-angle lens should not introduce serious field curvature or any kind of outrageous distortion.

So...use a normal focal length where possible, stop down as necessary. When you have rows of at different levels, focus 1/3 into the group. You may require some elevation of the camera but don't work too close and shoot at an extreme downward angle or you will get foreshortening, especially with a wide-angle focal length.

I do this frequently at weddings, events, corporate convention and events, and for sports teams, No issues.

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Dec 16, 2019 14:12:20   #
SonyA580 Loc: FL in the winter & MN in the summer
 
A. T. wrote:
Hedgehog family,

My question is this......if you are on f/2.8, everyone on that same focus plane should be in focus, correct?


Just to clarify your statement...., "everyone on the plane should be in focus". The answer is, possibly. The "plane" may only be fractions of an inch, depending on what aperture you choose.

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Dec 16, 2019 15:02:44   #
PHRubin Loc: Nashville TN USA
 
bleirer wrote:
https://www.photopills.com/calculators/dof

Yes, the plane of sharp focus is flat and parallel to the sensor. Except for perhaps aberrations/distortions that can happen at the edges.

Check out the calculator and a real nice article that explains it all. https://www.photopills.com/articles/depth-of-field-guide.

It depends on your focal length and distance to the subject. The plane of sharpest focus is infinitely small, but but the range of acceptable focus varies.

I suspect that the plane of sharp focus is the surface of a sphere, or a circle at ground level. That is, subjects that are equal distance to the camera.

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Dec 16, 2019 18:46:53   #
Siemienczuk
 
Yes! the plane is curved. Theoretically can mess you up in "focus and recompose."

There are Depth of Field calculator apps that can be loaded on your phone. Takes into account sensor (ff vs. crop), aperture, focal length, distance to subject. Will show you depth in front of and behind the focal plane, and usually also hyperfocal distance. If you use one a while pretty soon you get a feel for DoF.

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