I got a Neewer speedlight for my Nikon. I am interested in doing some basic portraits. Will the Godox wireless remote on my camera fire the Neewer light alone or do I need something on the light?
I have watched you tube and it looks like the Godox alone will fire the light...
Thanks
Keith
I believe that Neewer has your answer, unless someone here has your same set up.
Experiment. If it works then you have your answer.
There are a few different ways of wireless firing a remote speedlight. The setup you use depends on what kind of synchronization and/or exposure control you require and if you compliment of equipment is compatible, not only in basic synchronization but in exposure control.
I do not know if either of you speedlights work with the TTL exposure control or so-called command system in the camera or the flash unit on the camera- they may or may not be compatible, as to exposure control, so the best thing to do is check out the manuals for the camera and both speedlights and see what you can come up with. Even if both units fire perfectly, the TTL system may or may not work so you will have to determine the exposure and light ratios by testing. This is not too difficult to do in a portrait setup- once you determine the light outputs and the aperture settings the results shod be repeatable.
If, however, you are to adjusting your exposure and lighting ratio manually, your remote light MAY have a built-in photoelectric cell that will be triggered by the speedlight on the camera. OR...you can purchase a simple accessory photoelectric cell that attached to the remote unit to effect that kind of triggering. There's one made by Wein.
Yet another alternative is to purchase a radio triggering device set which entails a transmitter on the camera that also connects to the on-camera flash and hot shoe and a receiver that is connected to the remote unit. These are made by the manufacturers of your units, as well as Buff, Quantum, and Pocket Wizard among others.
keith k wrote:
I got a Neewer speedlight for my Nikon. I am interested in doing some basic portraits. Will the Godox wireless remote on my camera fire the Neewer light alone or do I need something on the light?
I have watched you tube and it looks like the Godox alone will fire the light...
Thanks
Keith
Which model Neewer flash and which model Godox remote (transmitter?) do you have?
The Neewer radio transmitters look exactly like re-labeled Godox.
The Neewer VK750II speedlight has only an optical receiver, not radio.
It should work with some Nikon's pop-up flash, but again, without knowing which model....???
The Nikon D7xxx and better are capable...your D5100 is not fully capable, but I have read it will trigger it, just not control it. (I had to do some detective work in your past posts)
Without specific models, we're just guessing.
Best to stick with one brand of flash/accessories.
You got a lot of recommendations for Godox in your previous thread about speedlights, why did you pick Neewer? A few bucks more and you would have bought into a pretty solid system.
It might if you have the same frequency. Your Nikon might fire it if you purchased the Nikon compatible flash. If you are thinking of purchasing the Godox trigger get a receiver for the flash to be sure.
E.L.. Shapiro wrote:
There are a few different ways of wireless firing a remote speedlight. The setup you use depends on what kind of synchronization and/or exposure control you require and if you compliment of equipment is compatible, not only in basic synchronization but in exposure control.
I do not know if either of you speedlights work with the TTL exposure control or so-called command system in the camera or the flash unit on the camera- they may or may not be compatible, as to exposure control, so the best thing to do is check out the manuals for the camera and both speedlights and see what you can come up with. Even if both units fire perfectly, the TTL system may or may not work so you will have to determine the exposure and light ratios by testing. This is not too difficult to do in a portrait setup- once you determine the light outputs and the aperture settings the results shod be repeatable.
If, however, you are to adjusting your exposure and lighting ratio manually, your remote light MAY have a built-in photoelectric cell that will be triggered by the speedlight on the camera. OR...you can purchase a simple accessory photoelectric cell that attached to the remote unit to effect that kind of triggering. There's one made by Wein.
Yet another alternative is to purchase a radio triggering device set which entails a transmitter on the camera that also connects to the on-camera flash and hot shoe and a receiver that is connected to the remote unit. These are made by the manufacturers of your units, as well as Buff, Quantum, and Pocket Wizard among others.
There are a few different ways of wireless firing ... (
show quote)
If the technology is so accessible why wouldn't Nikon or Canon build this system into their flash systems?
Fotoartist wrote:
If the technology is so accessible why wouldn't Nikon or Canon build this system into their flash systems?
Because in companies as large as these, the sands of time flow through the hourglass at a much slower rate.
If you try it, please Let us know if this works
I have a D7200 and an sb800 and sb600. My camera flash controls both of them and the sb800 if on camera controls the sb600. I believe it is an IR system but it seems to work at most all angles and heights. I don't use them much so I'm not that familiar with the weakness of the two at far as control range.
I have been using multiple flashes since 1959 for portraiture, wedding photography and commercial work. In the beginning, "slave" operation was done with photo-electric tubes, then it went to sold state triggers and then to radio frequency devices. The only camera inter-phase was either a simple PC synchronization socket or a hot shoe to enable basic synchronization withou automatic exposure control . The next progression was auto-flash which controlled output and therefore exposure via a thyristor circuit in the flash units that would increase or decrease the flash output to accommodate the distance between the flash unit and the subject. Next was TTL auto-flash where thyristor technology was in place in the flash gear, but the receptor is in the camera as opposed to the flash unit. Before these advancements, photographers had to manually set the aperture as per the flash units rated guide numbers, distances between the flash unit and the subject and manual hand held flash readings.
THINGS HAVE CHANGED! Most modern digital cameras come with TTL flash control and the makers market dedicated flash equipment to accommodate a menu of features including remote synchronization, command exposure control of multiple units, and ratio control. Then the popular aftermarket flash manufacturers came on board with their own systems that are compatible with some of the current camera brands and models.
If you require a fully automatic system that will work well in handheld fast-action situations such as wedding, press, and sports photograhy, you would be better off with a fully compatible system for your camera- either from the original camera manufacturer or a high-quality aftermarket maker. Whether the system works on radio frequencies or inferred control, all of the specifications would be matched.
A simple less complex or sophisticated portrait set up, however, can be assembled with just about any 2 existing speedlights, one on or near the camera and one on a light stand can be employed. You must first determine the power and exposure for each individual unit and operate them manually. If the on-camer unit can be set for anywhere form 1 to 4 f/stops weaker than the off-camera light, to provide a highlight to shadow ratio of your choice, you can produce various both soft and dramatic effects . If there is no built-in slave mechanism, a simple photoelectric cell can be attached to the remote unit.
Light modifiers, umbrellas, soft-boxes can be used and again, testing and expermentation to determine outputs and ratios will be required. Once all of theses factors determined, you should have a simple and repeatable setup as long as you maintain the distances and exposure controls.
For portraiture, ideally, mono-lights with built-in modeling lamps are better suited for the task in that you can see and pre-visualize your lighting patterns.
E.L.. Shapiro wrote:
I have been using multiple flashes since 1959 for portraiture, wedding photography and commercial work. In the beginning, "slave" operation was done with photo-electric tubes, then it went to sold state triggers and then to radio frequency devices. The only camera inter-phase was either a simple PC synchronization socket or a hot shoe to enable basic synchronization withou automatic exposure control . The next progression was auto-flash which controlled output and therefore exposure via a thyristor circuit in the flash units that would increase or decrease the flash output to accommodate the distance between the flash unit and the subject. Next was TTL auto-flash where thyristor technology was in place in the flash gear, but the receptor is in the camera as opposed to the flash unit. Before these advancements, photographers had to manually set the aperture as per the flash units rated guide numbers, distances between the flash unit and the subject and manual hand held flash readings.
THINGS HAVE CHANGED! Most modern digital cameras come with TTL flash control and the makers market dedicated flash equipment to accommodate a menu of features including remote synchronization, command exposure control of multiple units, and ratio control. Then the popular aftermarket flash manufacturers came on board with their own systems that are compatible with some of the current camera brands and models.
If you require a fully automatic system that will work well in handheld fast-action situations such as wedding, press, and sports photograhy, you would be better off with a fully compatible system for your camera- either from the original camera manufacturer or a high-quality aftermarket maker. Whether the system works on radio frequencies or inferred control, all of the specifications would be matched.
A simple less complex or sophisticated portrait set up, however, can be assembled with just about any 2 existing speedlights, one on or near the camera and one on a light stand can be employed. You must first determine the power and exposure for each individual unit and operate them manually. If the on-camer unit can be set for anywhere form 1 to 4 f/stops weaker than the off-camera light, to provide a highlight to shadow ratio of your choice, you can produce various both soft and dramatic effects . If there is no built-in slave mechanism, a simple photoelectric cell can be attached to the remote unit.
Light modifiers, umbrellas, soft-boxes can be used and again, testing and expermentation to determine outputs and ratios will be required. Once all of theses factors determined, you should have a simple and repeatable setup as long as you maintain the distances and exposure controls.
For portraiture, ideally, mono-lights with built-in modeling lamps are better suited for the task in that you can see and pre-visualize your lighting patterns.
I have been using multiple flashes since 1959 for ... (
show quote)
Excellent reply. Thank you for the tips St the end.
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