Auto ISO (Page 7): None !

jeryh Loc: Oxfordshire UK

None !

Notorious T.O.D. Loc: Harrisburg, North Carolina

On my phone at least the gator shot looks underexposed to me... Your mileage may vary...

selmslie wrote:

You are both arguing semantics.

If the meter always gave you the "right" exposure you would not need to use EC and you would never need to watch for blinkies.

Here is another example where I used my own judgement. The exposure was "right" because I ignored the meter completely.

I'm smarter than my camera. Are you?

Notorious T.O.D. Loc: Harrisburg, North Carolina

On my camera with Auto ISO if you want -EC it reduces the metered ISO and for +EC it increases the ISO gain.

John Howard wrote:

And how does Exposure Compensation influence the ISO?

Ysarex Loc: St. Louis

DaveO wrote:

Here is your statement that I referenced and not the one you made in this reply:

"With the camera in M+AutoISO+EC, adjusting the EC value will not change the exposure. It will likely result in the camera changing the ISO value but Manual mode locks the exposure such that an EC adjustment can not change it."

EC adjustment in auto-iso mode does in fact change the exposure in some cameras.

Not if the camera is set to Manual mode. The whole point of Manual mode is to be able to set a shutter speed and f/stop and have those two values then remain unchanged. What camera specifically will apply an EC change and alter a Manually set shutter speed and/or f/stop? You are wrong.

Joe

selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA

Notorious T.O.D. wrote:

Do you shot action? My camera can make changes and decisions faster than I ever could in changing lighting. If the lighting is consistent then I can take an incident reading and work off that too.

My Df is pretty quick but I'm smarter.

How did I set the exposure for those shots? I checked the weather report the night before. I knew I would be there at around 11AM and the light level would be broad daylight, LV 15. I set the exposure to 1/2000 @ f/11 and ISO 800, left the image stabilization off and went to bed.

When I got to the scene I took about 90 shots and never checked the results because I know that any slight deviation could easily be corrected in post.

If I had expected to shoot action I might have opted for 1/4000 and ISO 1600 because the Df can handle it.

But I can't hand-hold a Tamron 150-600 G2 around for too long at my age.

jaycoffman Loc: San Diego

To me auto iso is a useful tool to be used when conditions warrant. I shoot a great many of my shots while moving from place to place--hiking, safari vehicles, motorcycle, etc. When moving the light changes quite rapidly and I seldom have time to set up my shot completely as many of my subjects are also moving so I use auto iso coupled with one of the more manual adjustments--manual, aperture priority or shutter priority. This allows me to concentrate on focus and composition in the short time I have to get a shot.

On the other hand when I'm shooting a series of shots in one place I have a better idea of the light and can then take time to use all three light tools in a manual mode to get the picture I want.

That's just my take on auto iso--I don't recommend it all the time but I also think it's useful when appropriate.

selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA

Notorious T.O.D. wrote:

On my phone at least the gator shot looks underexposed to me... Your mileage may vary...

Download the first one on your computer and look at it full size. It's exactly what I wanted.

The shape of the gator is defined by the specular highlights. The dark and mysterious rendition is deliberate.

The camera would never have imagined how I wanted it to turn out because it's just a super fast dumb tool.

AzPicLady Loc: Behind the camera!

TriX wrote:

Have you tried setting an upper limit in your auto ISO?

I'm not sure my camera allows that. Actually, it sort of happened by accident on a couple of shoots and now is back to a set ISO. I'm hoping I don't do that again!

gessman Loc: Colorado

What we have here in this conversation is a borderline modified SOOC vs. non-SOOC argument going on. The increasing capability of the latest cameras to deal with noise in addition to the latest software to mitigate noise in post processing is all but being overlooked by some here, many in fact. Every shot doesn't have to be the epitome of perfection that can only be achieved shooting at 100 iso come hell or high water. Some shots can be highly desirable with a little noise in them and some can even have noise fixed some. The more technically difficult the shot, the more there must be an allowance for a lack of total photographic perfection that can be achieved by controlling all the variables such as in a portrait studio where the camera doesn't move for 30 years until the photographer retires.

The only people I can think of who would never use manual and autoISO are, like the 1940s Kodak instruction book set says, those who only shoot landscapes between an hour after sunup and an hour before sunset with subject matter that hasn't noticeably moved in millions of years. They're resolute and brave in their choice of subject matter, restricting those choices while often their output may be the epitome of perfection but their repertoire is extremely limited as compared to some others, say action sports and wildlife shooters.

I'd rather have a less than technically perfect shot on occasion of something that requires stretching myself with a little compromise on the technique that one must use with a large format camera than to give up the ability to capture such a more challenging image in the first place by just shooting subject matter that hasn't moved for millions of years. So, yes, I use "M" and autoISO about every time I leave the house and if anyone cares to look at my posted images and scroll down the list to my "birds in flight" shots they will show beyond a shadow of a doubt that I have managed to achieve several shots that are well short of technical perfection.

I've also shot a fair amount with large format and 50 asa film that you won't see here. That was a while back and although I may have "lost a little steam" in recent years, I've made an effort to "keep up" rather than constantly trying to drag everyone into the past. I'm kinda proud of the fact that my first full frame DSLR was one of the first few in 2009 from Canon with a U. S. serial number of 94 preceded by a bunch of zeros.

Ysarex Loc: St. Louis

John Howard wrote:

And how does Exposure Compensation influence the ISO?

Historically Exposure Compensation did what its name implies -- it altered exposure which on a camera you can do by changing the shutter speed and/or f/stop. EC came into it's own when cameras added semi-auto exposure modes like Shutter priority and/or Aperture priority. In Shutter priority for example a +EC would be added to the metered exposure causing the camera to select a larger f/stop than it would at EC=0. However in Manual mode with both the shutter speed and f/stop selected by the user EC at best could alter the meter reading but more likely did nothing -- Manual mode precluded changing either shutter speed or f/stop.

With the advent of digital cameras came auto-ISO. In older digital cameras implementation of the EC function originally remained focused on exposure -- changing shutter speed or f/stop. But eventually the camera manufacturers began to allow EC to also alter ISO if the ISO was set to auto. With modern cameras (recent decade) that is now typical and a change in the EC setting can result in a change in the ISO value that the camera would automatically select. This has been slow to arrive across all brands and models (Fuji was a long hold out). With this added option EC then is no longer strictly EC because it is possible for EC to change only ISO which does not technically change exposure.

Joe

photoman43

I use it almost all the time on my Nikon DSLRs. I shoot in Aperture Priority so I still have control over my aperture. I set the minimum shutter speed I wasnt, so in some situatiopns I am alos in Shutter priority, very useful for nature photography if you need a fast shutter speed. The camera sets the ISO needed, up to the maximum limit I have set.

On my DSLRs, I can turn it on and off by pressing the ISO button on the camera and turning the front wheel.And if Ex comp is needed I can set that too. To me this is far easier than shooting in Manual mode especially with changing light conditions.

The only drawback is to remember to look top see if it is set to what you want it set to. But that applies to other settings too.

srt101fan

gessman wrote:

What we have here in this conversation is a borderline modified SOOC vs. non-SOOC argument going on. The increasing capability of the latest cameras to deal with noise in addition to the latest software to mitigate noise in post processing is all but being overlooked by some here, many in fact. Every shot doesn't have to be the epitome of perfection that can only be achieved shooting at 100 iso come hell or high water. Some shots can be highly desirable with a little noise in them and some can even have noise fixed some. The more technically difficult the shot, the more there must be an allowance for a lack of total photographic perfection that can be achieved by controlling all the variables such as in a portrait studio where the camera doesn't move for 30 years until the photographer retires.

The only people I can think of who would never use manual and autoISO are, like the 1940s Kodak instruction book set says, those who only shoot landscapes between an hour after sunup and an hour before sunset with subject matter that hasn't noticeably moved in millions of years. They're resolute and brave in their choice of subject matter, restricting those choices while often their output may be the epitome of perfection but their repertoire is extremely limited as compared to some others, say action sports and wildlife shooters.

I'd rather have a less than technically perfect shot on occasion of something that requires stretching myself with a little compromise on the technique that one must use with a large format camera than to give up the ability to capture such a more challenging image in the first place by just shooting subject matter that hasn't moved for millions of years. So, yes, I use "M" and autoISO about every time I leave the house and if anyone cares to look at my posted images and scroll down the list to my "birds in flight" shots they will show beyond a shadow of a doubt that I have managed to achieve several shots that are well short of technical perfection.

I've also shot a fair amount with large format and 50 asa film that you won't see here. That was a while back and although I may have "lost a little steam" in recent years, I've made an effort to "keep up" rather than constantly trying to drag everyone into the past. I'm kinda proud of the fact that my first full frame DSLR was one of the first few in 2009 from Canon with a U. S. serial number of 94 preceded by a bunch of zeros.

What we have here in this conversation is a border... (show quote)

Refreshing comments, gessman!

tomad Loc: North Carolina

I use auto ISO but with limits. I set the camera to limit the upper ISO to 800 as I'm not fond of the results above that with my cameras. Depending on what I'm shooting, and if I'm shooting in other than shutter priority or manual I also set a low limit on what the camera can set the shutter speed to according to the subject and lighting conditions, as I found that in some situations shooting in Program or Aperture modes in low light the camera may set the shutter speed to low with the limit I put on auto ISO.

cjc2 Loc: Hellertown PA

IMHO, all this diving into minutia and becoming absolute in word definition does absolutely nothing to make images any better. What I always suggest is practice, practice and more practice as that's what makes one better at this craft. Best of luck.

selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA

via the lens wrote:

But, unfortunately, often not quick enough for wildlife in varying lighting conditions. The best way to get good wildlife shots if the light is contrasty and variable is to use auto ISO. For other conditions that would not be needed.

It doesn't need to react to varying lighting conditions for wildlife shots. They don't vary that rapidly. You just have to outsmart your camera.

If an animal or bird is moving over a mixed bright and dark background but it remains in the sun, you only need to expose for the sunlit animal - LV=15.

If it moves in and our of the sunlight you can pick the sunlit shots and skip the others. If it stays in the shade just expose for LV=12.

If you are in a partly cloudy situation and the sun is sometimes covered up and sometime not, you only have a small range of light values - LV 15-13 - and that's easily fixed in PP.

For more about LV see https://www.scotty-elmslie.com/uploads/5/6/3/3/56337819/exposure_triangle_spreadsheet.pdf and you can download the spreadsheet at https://www.scotty-elmslie.com/uploads/5/6/3/3/56337819/exposure_triangle.xls