lpeck

I am real ugly new to photography and have a couple questions

What kind of a flash would you recommend? I’ve been reading about the 470EX AL and it sounds good but not sure if this would be the correct purchase?

I am also going on an 11 day river cruise on the Danube in a few months and am looking for recommendations on lens selections.

Thank you very much

Larry

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

The best mix of performance and price is a used copy of the 580EX. The 580EX II is nearly exactly the same, with a slight difference in the way it attaches to the camera and how the display lights up for use in dark settings. I've bought and sold all my mine in these two versions used. Just assure the flash comes with the original case and the stand in the sales price.

A useful do-it-all lens is the EFS 18-135 IS. There are multiple versions. You'll only find the newest version new for sale. All the versions are available used so you can judge how much you want to spend. Used versions will tend to have the sold-separately hood included. Here's a link to the newest version. There's links to the other versions embedded in the text: https://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-S-18-135mm-f-3.5-5.6-IS-USM-Lens.aspx

Scruples Loc: Brooklyn, New York

Never, ever say that you are "new" to photography. When G-d is finished with me, I'll let you know.
The Canon EOS 80D is a worthy work horse. One you learn the ins and outs of this machine, you will truly
appreciate how awesome it is. You need to learn the correct manipulation of the Shutter Speed, f/stop and ISO (International Organization of Standardization). With that under your belt, you will do just fine.
The Canon 470EX-AL is also a nice flash. It may be more flash than you need. It too will serve you well in the long haul. Although it dose have a hefty price tag (under $300) you could opt for a cheaper flash such as the YONGNUO YN600EX-RT II which is about one third the price of the flash you have in mind.
I rarely and I do mean rarely use a flash. I don't like the image under a flash. It can be harsh. Learn to dial up and dial down the ISO. That way you can use a higher ISO for darker scenes. You will use lower ISO for brighter scenes. The smaller (higher numbers) the f/Stop the higher detail and the greater depth of field. Also the smaller f/stop will render the photograph slightly darker. With Shutter speed the faster the object is moving the higher you want your shutter speed to be.

Welcome To The Ugly Hedge Hog. This is your forum. Learn, share and grow!

Happy Shooting!

rmorrison1116 Loc: Near Valley Forge, Pennsylvania

For starters, it's the 470EX-AI no AL. The AI stands for Auto Intelligent. This speedlite has the ability to automatically set and maintain the bounce angle and settings to get Ideal lighting. I have one and it is my primary on camera flash. The AI is primarily used for indoor photography because there are far fewer opertunities to bounce a flash outdoors. I also own both the Canon 580EX-II and the Yongnuo YN600EX-RT II and they are both excellent flash units, kind of large, but excellent none the less. Another responder said the 470 may be more flash than you need but the other two flashes are actually more powerful than the 470, making them more flash than you may need. If cost is not a consideration, I'd go with the 470. It's more versatile and plenty powerful and once you've learned how to use it, you will enjoy using it.
As for which lens or lenses to take on vacation; you didn't tell us what lenses you already have or if you plan to eventually upgrade to full frame. If you do not plan to go full frame in the future then EF-S lenses are ok, but they do not mount full frame bodies. My favorite EF-S lens is the 18-200 f/3.5-5.6 IS. After I got that lens I pretty much shelved my 18-135. There's also a few multi lens options you may want to consider. The EF-S 17-55 f/2.8 IS USM is ideal for indoor photography and wide exterior and landscape shots. Couple that with the EF-S 55-250 f/4-5.6 IS, there's three to choose from, mine is the oldest of the three and works fine for what I use it for, you've got most of the focal lengths you need covered, covered. My favorite utility lens is my EF 28-300L. Not that wide on a crop sensor camera like the 80D but still versatile. It's kind of pricey but it's a great lens and it's built like a tank. I've used it on my 80D numerous times. When I go out on a photo expedition, I usually carry two DSLR'S, 1 full frame (5D mk IV) and 1 crop (80D), and a bridge camera (Canon G1X III) or a DSLR, a MILC (M50) and a bridge. The 28-300 on the full frame and my EF 100-400L II with Canon 1.4X teleconverter on the crop body.
Enjoy your trip and get lots of nice photos, and, welcome to the UHH.

CO

That new auto intelligent Canon flash is brilliant for people who use bounce flash. The people at Canon are geniuses. It can automatically seek out the best bounce flash position and memorizes that position. When you switch between landscape and portrait orientation, the motorized head will automatically swivel to maintain that bounce flash orientation.

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

Flashes:

While I agree with Chg_Canon that the 580EX/EX II flashes are quite good, they also are rather large and might not be what you want for travel.

In my opinion, you're right to consider an accessory flash. The 80D has a built-in flash. But like all built-in flashes it's wimpy, slow to recycle, located in the worst possible place for issues with redeye and ugly shadows, plus it's a serious drain on the camera's battery. An accessory flash can solve all these problems. Even the smallest ones are more powerful than a built-in, as well as faster cycling and powered by their own, separate set of batteries. They also can be positioned more favorably to reduce redeye and make for nicer shadow effects.

The 500EX-series and 600EX series are Canon's largest and most powerful flashes (personally I have three 550EX and three 580EX II). They can act as both master and slave flashes in multi-flash setups, and have a socket to attach an external power source (such as a Canon CP-E2/E3/E4 Compact Battery Pack which adds eight more batteries to the four already contained in the flash). The additional battery power allows the flash both to recycle faster and to provide many more flashes.

The 400EX-series flashes are a bit smaller and lighter, as well as a little less powerful. They also cannot serve as a master... can only act as slaves in a multi-flash setup. And they don't have built-in means of using external power sources (there are third party power supplies, but they require some slight modification to the flash).

The 300EX-series and 200EX-series flashes are the next steps down in size and power. At least one of the 300EX models also has a continuous LED for video work. The earlier 200EX models are among the most compact (I think all 200EX series are powered by two AA batteries, versus the four used in the larger models). These models also can only serve as slave units and are not designed to accommodate an external power source. Some of the 300EX and many of the earlier 200EX-series flash do not have a tilting head. Some of the 300EX series and one or two of the latest 270EX models have this feature, though. I don't think any 300EX-series are currently in production, but they can be found used.

The Canon 90EX is the smallest of all. Very simple, highly automatic... It's also the only model other than the 500/600EX-series that can be used as a master, to control other flashes in a multi-flash setup. (This allows use of a very small, light weight flash on-camera, controlling bigger flashes located off-camera.)

Speaking of off-camera flash control... there are two methods: Optical and radio. There are 600-series and 400-series flash with "RT" designation that communicate with each other using radio, which is not limited to line of sight and has good reliability over an extended range. Optical control uses strobing lights from the master (near-IR, so largely invisible) OR strobing from many of the cameras' built-in flashes (white light and rather obnoxious). Optical communication requires line-of-sight that restricts off-camera flash placement, while also limiting range (which varies depending upon ambient light conditions).

The Canon flash designations give you a clue to their power. They are actually derived from the flash's approximate guide number, in meters. For example, a 600EX has a 60 meter guide number, a 580EX has a 58 meter GN and a 420EX a 42 meter GN. Keep in mind that there are 39" in a meter, so in feet a 270EX's GN would be about 88'.

Some of the flash have automatic "zooming" heads. This adjusts the flash's angle of coverage to match the lens from moderate wide to short telephoto. When used in auto mode and not tilted up, down or sideways, 600/500/400EX-series respond to the lens focal length and adjust automatically from approx. 24mm to 105mm on full frame (...or approx. 15mm to 66mm on APS-C cameras like the 80D). Further, some models have a wide angle diffusion panel that can be manually slid in place to cover as wide as 16mm focal length (10mm on APS-C/80D).

Canon's "ETTL" flash is highly automated and easy to use. newer flashes' "ETTL II", which I think the 80D supports, is slightly more sophisticated (in addition to the ETTL metering method, ETTL II can take into consideration the focus distance of the lens when it's determining the power of flash to use).

The flashes also can be used manually, if preferred. The more advanced models also allow you to dial exposure up or down with "FEC".... "flash exposure compensation" (does the same thing for auto flash exposure that Exposure Compensation does when using any of the camera's auto exposure modes without flash".

An important thing to know is that when Canon ETTL flash is used with the camera set to any of the auto exposure modes (Av, Tv, P... maybe M with Auto ISO too)... the flash will automatically act as "FILL", rather than "FULL" flash. Fill flash is typically 1.66 stops reduced. To use full flash with ETTL auto exposure, simply switch the camera to M exposure mode (without Auto ISO... you can manually adjust the camera settings to use more or less ambient light in combination with the flash... the flash's output will still be an auto exposure, controlled by ETTL). In both cases, flash output can be tweaked using FEC.

Many of the flashes (at least 600/500/400-series) are able to do "Rear Curtain Sync", which is normally used with slow shutter speeds. They also are able to do "High Speed Sync", which allows the flash to be used with fast shutter speeds above the camera's maximum flash sync speed (1/250 on 80D). HSS can be used all the way up to 1/8000 shutter speed, but it shortens the duration of the flash and significantly reduces the distance the flash can reach (i.e., "reduces" it's Guide Number). Many of the more advanced flashes have an LCD screen that, among other things, graphically displays the distance range of the flash based upon current flash and camera settings (can be set to display either meters or feet).

Any of the 400EX-series flashes would be a bit smaller than the 600/500EX-series, a little more travel friendly. If size and weight are a serious concern, and considering the 80D's usable high ISOs that may make flash less necessary, one of the 300/200EX-series may be preferred for travel.

Whatever flash you choose, I'd recommend a simple off-camera rig with a flash bracket. This moves the flash off to the side and higher up, which makes for less redeye and better shadow effects from direct flash. A moderate size, light weight bracket that folds or disassembles for travel would be ideal. To use this will require an "off-camera shoe cord", which attaches to the hotshoe. Canon offers those, but there are also third party at lower cost. Canon doesn't offer flash brackets, but they are available at a wide range of prices. Simple ones can cost as little as $20 or $25. Fancier ones can cost over $100.

A flash bracket allows you to use direct flash without much concern. This is preferable to "bouncing" a flash, which forces the flash to fire more fully, wastes an awful lot of the flash's output, slows flash recycling, drains batteries faster and can all-too-easily lead to color tints and other image problems. Direct flash is much more efficient and controllable. If you find it a bit too harsh, there are small diffusers that can tone down the lighting. (I often just use one or more layers of white gauze bandage over the flash head, held in place by a rubber band! Sort of MacGuyverish... But, hey, it works!)

Because I am not a fan of bouncing flash, I would probably not be all that interested in the Canon 470EX AI.... Because it's main added feature is some sort of automated bounce!

To me, the Canon 430EX-RT III (with radio triggering capabilities) would be more useful. It even costs a little less.

If not interested in multi-flash setups, an even smaller, lighter 270EX II might be a good choice for travel.

Lenses:

Did your 80D come with the EF-S 18-135mm IS USM? That's a good general purpose "walk around" lens.

For scenic shots and architectural interiors, you might want a wider lens such as the compact, lightweight, inexpensive Canon EF-S 10-18mm IS STM.

If you plan to do some portraiture, you may want a "faster" short telephoto lens such as the compact, lightweight, very affordable EF 50mm f/1.8 STM.

Unless you anticipate some wildlife photos or attending some sporting events, you may not need a longer lens such as the Canon EF-S 55-250mm IS STM or EF 70-300mm IS USM "II" (Avoid the inexpensive Canon EF 75-300mm "III". It's nowhere near as good lens... falls short both in performance and image quality.)

If you are planning to do a lot of wildlife photography, you might consider a more powerful telephoto such as Canon's very good EF 300mm f/4L IS USM or excellent but pricier, larger, heavier EF 100-400L IS USM "II" (both lenses with or without 1.4X teleconverter)... Or Tamron's slightly more compact 100-400mm (with it's separately sold tripod mounting ring).

Rather than taking a dedicated macro lens, if you anticipate wanting some close-up photos... closer than you can accomplish natively with your lenses... get and take a set of Kenko Macro Extension Tubes. Those can be used to make any lens closer focusing. They're affordable, well made, compact and light weight, and can make any lens you have in your camera bag able to focus closer.

Other stuff:

Many Canon lenses don't include the lens hood. I always get and use the matched hood, if not provided with the lens.

For scenic shots and possibly some other things, I'd want a Circular Polarizing filter (or filters... if needed). I would also probably take "protection" filters, just in case they're needed (I don't leave them on my lenses all the time). Get good quality, multi-coated (B+W XS-Pro and F-Pro C-Pols are a really good value... their other types of filters are good, but not as favorably priced.)

Whatever you get... flashes, lenses and accessories.... do so as soon as possible so you can practice a bit with them and be comfortable using them before going on your trip.

You'll also want to arrange some method of carrying them. Personally I use LowePro backpacks... A pack is healthier than a shoulder bag (but you and/or travel companions have to "watch your back"). One I use fits in an airplane overhead bin.

I'd NEVER put most of my camera gear in checked baggage. I have gotten by sending a tripod in a checked bag. But other gear I've been forced to put in checked bags has gotten destroyed.

If needed, I'll ship things ahead in advance, to meet me at my destination.... rather than check them in baggage.

Often when I travel I wear a photo vest (actually a fishing vest... same thing, half the price!) to carry small items.

Spare batteries? Chargers that will work at your destination?

Got plenty of memory cards, means of downloading them and archive your images for safe keeping?

Have a great trip!

lpeck

Thank you very much. If the quality and versatility is there i would rather spend the money on a higher quality flash now vs replacing a lesser quality flash in a year or two spending more money overall.

rmorrison1116 Loc: Near Valley Forge, Pennsylvania

The Canon 470 speedlite, as I previously stated, is a quality flash. But is it the right flash for your river trip? Of my flashes, the Canon 470 is probably not the flash I would use as my primary flash on a trip like the one you will be taking. I would use the 470 for indoor photography in areas with normal height ceilings, places where bouncing the light works. For outdoors and large open indoor shots I would use something with more power, something like my Canon 580 EX II or my Yongnuo YN680 EX-RT. The Canon speedlites are some of the best flash units available but they are pricey. A good alternative is Yongnuo. They have a full line of well made, relatively inexpensive flash units that rival the performance of Canon flash units.

miked46 Loc: Winter Springs, Florida

I have traveled the Danube a few times, and the best overall lens is the 18-135 mated to the 80D. The Flash will come in handy at night, as you progress through some of the locks, depending on what part of the river you are trans-versing.

Resqu2 Loc: SW Va

Be sure to check their compatibility charts as the AI part only works with certain camera models by the way I understand it.

khorinek

I use the Canon 470 EX II for all my flash needs. You can get the newer AI version, but it's not necessary. If you can't bounce flash, (outdoors or high ceilings) the AI will be of no use.
The EF 28-135 & EF-S 18-135 3.5 - 5.6 would be a good all around lens to consider for the 80D

Architect1776 Loc: In my mind

DJphoto Loc: SF Bay Area

I don't do very much flash photography, but I've been shooting with my 80D for almost 3 years. I use a Canon 270EXII flash and am satisfied with it. I actually bought it originally for use on my Canon SX40 HS. While it isn't as capable as their higher end flashes, it does a good job, is compact and has a fairly rapid refresh rate. It's a little closer to the lens than the other larger flashes, so there is a greater occurrence of red-eye. However, that's an easy fix in Lightroom. In addition to being inexpensive and compact, it uses two AA batteries, so spares are easy.

We went on a Viking Ocean cruise to Norway, Scotland and London last year and I used my EF-S 18-135 for over 90% of my photos. We were close enough to shore that I only used my EF 70-300 one day of the 14 we were on the ship, and it was on a shore excursion; after about 3 days I left it in the safe in our cabin. I used my EF-S 10-18 IS STM some as well, but the short end of the 18-135 was all I usually needed. We're going to Spain in a few months and then a cruise from Venice to Barcelona a couple of months after that and I'm considering leaving my EF 70-300 at home.

nadelewitz Loc: Ithaca NY

For a real nice deal and very capable flash, look for a used 430 EX II. It's not giant-sized, easier to carry and hold onto if attached to the camera hot shoe.
Not the latest & "greatest" bells and whistles, but does a nice job. Verrryy fast, silent charging. I just got hold of a pair of them for cheap and feel like I want to look for opportunities to do flash shooting because of them.

By the way, I happened on a Canon Service Notice: Caution Concerning Use of Lithium Batteries that says AA Lithium batteries CANNOT be used with any Speedlite or Macrolite product because they may, in rare cases, become extremely hot during usage.

How about that?

DJphoto Loc: SF Bay Area

I use Eneloop NiMH as my primary batteries, with non-rechargeable alkalines as a back-up.