Camera grip pad glue
Sep 9, 2019 05:53:10 #
I had the same problem with my Olympus EM1 MkII. This occurred where the grip rubber abutted with the remote cable terminal cover. After several unsuccessful attempts to glue this down, I noted that corner of the grip that was the problem was raised slightly above the rubber of the terminal cover. So, after regluing the grip I then shaved it down with a sharp knife so that the two pieces of rubber were flush. This has solved the problem.
Sep 9, 2019 06:34:46 #
Pro's use Pliobond. Ace Hardware. My choice for 3 decades' or more' on many camera grip refurbs.
Sep 9, 2019 06:53:27 #
One of the most highly rated adhesives is E6000. I just discovered it recently myself. I glued the sole of a shoe back on and then tried to pull it off after the stuff cured. It would not come off, I was impressed. It is flexible, never hardens, and believe it or not it says you can mount photos with it, and will not harm the photo. The bad part is it smells bad. I apply it outside and let it cure somewhere I am not. As an update, their website says it is now available in odorless....https://www.amazon.com/E6000-230010-Craft-Adhesive-Ounces/dp/B007TSYNG8/ref=sxin_0_ac_d_rm?ac_md=0-0-ZTYwMDA%3D-ac_d_rm&gclid=CjwKCAjw8NfrBRA7EiwAfiVJpRggRAkmgi8APrbOauxuJj2fMFsu5oEJ0iuN9tn78HXbcqjOIzWnaRoCT4kQAvD_BwE&hvadid=241629231339&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9052281&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=17124701959678824836&hvtargid=kwd-41487866&hydadcr=26610_9892136&keywords=e6000&pd_rd_i=B007TSYNG8&pd_rd_r=c5d3cf27-cb1d-402d-878f-4bfe87d38760&pd_rd_w=IMCs4&pd_rd_wg=BdX40&pf_rd_p=404c4843-2c96-4d0d-a5fe-2b0598693e61&pf_rd_r=G9D6CXY896CYYG7ENV1Z&qid=1568026467&s=gateway
Sep 9, 2019 07:07:26 #
Sep 9, 2019 09:39:30 #
When the Canon produced the 60D it originally had a problem with peeling skins, unfortunately I was the unfortunate owner of one of these cameras. Somehow I found a number for Canon parts and was able to get a re-skinning kit directly from Canon for under $50. The kit came with all the rubber parts, some of them very small but also with the double sided tape used when applying the skin.
Bottomline is that it worked perfectly and made an raggedly looking camera new again.
Bottomline is that it worked perfectly and made an raggedly looking camera new again.
Sep 9, 2019 10:06:53 #
Picture Taker
Loc: Michigan Thumb
I would think rubber glue would work and be able to remove for repair.
Sep 9, 2019 10:42:22 #
larryepage
Loc: North Texas area
I refurbished a D300 a couple of years ago. That required removing and replacing grips. It became obvious that there were two problems with the old grips...they were now unstuck, and they had expanded over time so that they no longer would fit correctly even if I could "stick" them back on. Moisture, oil, and temperature leads to both failures.
I ended up ordering a 3rd party grip replacement set, mainly because they were no longer available from Nikon. Mounting with the double-sided adhesive tape is far superior to any applied adhesive, even though the grips are slightly less than a perfect fit.
I'd be likely to try to follow that approach if I had to replace grips again.
I ended up ordering a 3rd party grip replacement set, mainly because they were no longer available from Nikon. Mounting with the double-sided adhesive tape is far superior to any applied adhesive, even though the grips are slightly less than a perfect fit.
I'd be likely to try to follow that approach if I had to replace grips again.
Sep 9, 2019 11:09:07 #
Pliobond and generic rubber cement are almost identical... and applied the same way...and can be identical. Some rubber cements are optimized for easy peel-off, some are a bit tougher. At the two extreme ends of the spectrum think about the goo that sticks your new credit card to a mailer, vs. the rubber cement you normally find at the hardware counter.
Sep 9, 2019 14:26:52 #
Sep 9, 2019 14:31:37 #
amfoto1
Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA
Pliobond is good for the leather or leatherette coverings of many cameras. I've used it a lot for those.
However, for a rubber grip that gets a lot of handling, I'd either use contact cement or Shoe Goo.
If it's a small area and backed up by something rigid, I'd use contact cement. But it can harden quite a bit with age.
Shoe Goo remains more pliable (it's primary use it so repair the soles of shoes). It also comes in different colors, including black as is usually needed for cameras, so can be used to "rebuild" a small damaged area if needed.
With any of these adhesives, be a little careful what's underneath the rubber grip area. Some have access holes to screws or adjusters, etc. You don't want to fill those or accidentally get glue inside a camera. Some cameras have thin metal plates covering access ports hidden under the coverings, too. Before permanently gluing the cover on, make sure those are still in the correct location.
Don't use adhesives like epoxy that make it impossible to remove the covers or that will cause the cover to be damaged during removal. If the camera ever needs disassembly for servicing or repair, those covers may need to be removed.
Double stick tapes usually won't work on areas that get a lot of handling or are fitted around curved surfaces. I've used it to install pieces of flat leatherette on cameras, but most of it has too weak hold.
Stronger double stick tapes are available, such as the tapes used to install trim on cars. But many of those are just too thick for use on cameras. I did find a 3M double stick tape that worked well to reinstall some wood trim parts in my car that had come loose.... black and about the thickness of electrical tape. So far it's held, even through hot weather when some tapes might give up! That was some time ago, though... and I don't recall the name of the tape I used.
However, for a rubber grip that gets a lot of handling, I'd either use contact cement or Shoe Goo.
If it's a small area and backed up by something rigid, I'd use contact cement. But it can harden quite a bit with age.
Shoe Goo remains more pliable (it's primary use it so repair the soles of shoes). It also comes in different colors, including black as is usually needed for cameras, so can be used to "rebuild" a small damaged area if needed.
With any of these adhesives, be a little careful what's underneath the rubber grip area. Some have access holes to screws or adjusters, etc. You don't want to fill those or accidentally get glue inside a camera. Some cameras have thin metal plates covering access ports hidden under the coverings, too. Before permanently gluing the cover on, make sure those are still in the correct location.
Don't use adhesives like epoxy that make it impossible to remove the covers or that will cause the cover to be damaged during removal. If the camera ever needs disassembly for servicing or repair, those covers may need to be removed.
Double stick tapes usually won't work on areas that get a lot of handling or are fitted around curved surfaces. I've used it to install pieces of flat leatherette on cameras, but most of it has too weak hold.
Stronger double stick tapes are available, such as the tapes used to install trim on cars. But many of those are just too thick for use on cameras. I did find a 3M double stick tape that worked well to reinstall some wood trim parts in my car that had come loose.... black and about the thickness of electrical tape. So far it's held, even through hot weather when some tapes might give up! That was some time ago, though... and I don't recall the name of the tape I used.
Sep 9, 2019 16:24:25 #
Sep 9, 2019 16:31:32 #
mwsilvers wrote:
I've never had to replace grips on any of my Canon cameras. Usually the areas that do peel of are the one's my thumb slides over the most going from control to control near the edge of the grip. Its only happened a few times in the past 11 years and I have never needed to redo it. I can see it being more problematic depending on heat, humidity and the amount of sweat on one's hands.
Sep 9, 2019 18:50:38 #
imagemeister wrote:
Most camera repair people use "Pliobond" for this .....I have used it also
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Whatever glue you use, wear latex gloves. You don't want glue on your skin. >Alan
Sep 9, 2019 21:11:01 #
Pliobond or Barge cement. Barge is commonly used by shoe repairmen, so if hard to find where you live got to the shoe repair shop.
If both are hard to find, try Walther's Goo, from a model train shop.
All of these are contact cement, generally identical, or could be the same stuff in different bottles.
Rubber cement, as in the office supply store, isn't contact cement, and is intended to be not permanent. I would consider it a waste of time.
If both are hard to find, try Walther's Goo, from a model train shop.
All of these are contact cement, generally identical, or could be the same stuff in different bottles.
Rubber cement, as in the office supply store, isn't contact cement, and is intended to be not permanent. I would consider it a waste of time.
Sep 9, 2019 22:43:04 #
I have used both Pliobond and E6000 for various repairs. I found that it was substantially easier to control the application of E6000 than Pliobond, since the E6000 is slightly thicker and thus less likely to run.
Also, Pliobond is applied to both surfaces, and must be allowed to dry before the surfaces are pressed together.
E6000 can be applied to one surface and does not need to dry before assembly.
Also, Pliobond is applied to both surfaces, and must be allowed to dry before the surfaces are pressed together.
E6000 can be applied to one surface and does not need to dry before assembly.
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