I believe most recent cameras warn against using a linear polarizer, as it affects the auto-focus mechanism (or the auto exposure). Circular polarizers apparently are OK.
These are all very useful replies. Can a CPL help when photographing people on bright, sunny days? Thanks.
mjb wrote:
These are all very useful replies. Can a CPL help when photographing people on bright, sunny days? Thanks.
Do they wear glasses, or anything reflective, then yes.
dms
Loc: Livermore, CA
I shoot a lot of photos in Yosemite. I almost always use a rotating polarizing filter. I use it because it intensifies the skies, clouds, and river scenes. A great tool for me.
If you are shooting wildlife or landscapes a polarizer is a must. It is not just about skies (where it helps) but it is about reducing glare on such things as antlers, horns, water,metal, ice and snow, leaves grass, even dirt and sandy pathways.
Probably the most important filter you will ever use.
mjb wrote:
These are all very useful replies. Can a CPL help when photographing people on bright, sunny days? Thanks.
Use a diffuser to reduce harsh light on sunny days or put your subject in open shade.
When light reflects off a surface at an angle, it is partially polarized. That means that the brightness of the partially doubly polarized image that strikes the metering sensors can be less than that of the singly polarized image that strikes the sensor, leading to overexposure. A significant inconvenience, but manageable in reality.
As far as focusing goes, any polarizing filter introduces loss of image brightness, just like an extender does. That loss could be as much as two stops, just like a 2X extender, although it is probably less than that, and low loss polarizers introduce much less than 2 stops of loss.
Have always had a CPL for each lens. Very useful for bluer skies and reduced reflections on water or glass. Have found Hoya HD3 filters very useful. Resist fingerprints and easier to clean.
larryepage wrote:
When light reflects off a surface at an angle, it is partially polarized. That means that the brightness of the partially doubly polarized image that strikes the metering sensors can be less than that of the singly polarized image that strikes the sensor, leading to overexposure. A significant inconvenience, but manageable in reality.
As far as focusing goes, any polarizing filter introduces loss of image brightness, just like an extender does. That loss could be as much as two stops, just like a 2X extender, although it is probably less than that, and low loss polarizers introduce much less than 2 stops of loss.
When light reflects off a surface at an angle, it... (
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A few people have mentioned that the cpl takes up to 1-2 stops of light..... But, ttl meeting will overcome that. No need to set a +ev.
lev29
Loc: Born and living in MA.
David in Dallas wrote:
I believe most recent cameras warn against using a linear polarizer, as it affects the auto-focus mechanism (or the auto exposure). Circular polarizers apparently are OK.
Not necessarily. I recently created a Topic that attempts to address this matter.
https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-603962-1.html
Helpful video. Steve is a great resource to have on UHH
frankraney wrote:
A few people have mentioned that the cpl takes up to 1-2 stops of light..... But, ttl meeting will overcome that. No need to set a +ev.
Yes. For a circular polarizer, no adjustment is needed, because circularly polarized light behaves differently. There will be an error with a linear polarizing filter which the metering system cannot correct. Could range from insignificant to major. But should still be manageable with experimentation and manual corrections. The image in the viewfinder should give a pretty good clue of how much correction will need to be dialed in, with some practice and experience.
And the light loss I'm talking about is the loss that takes an f5.6 lens to an f11 lens. Not much way that doesn't impact autofocus, at least most of the time.
A CPL (or linear polarizer in a pinch - I use one all the time and it works great!) is one of the only two filters you really need in digital. The other is a neutral density filter to achieve really slow shutter speeds in brighter light (for example, to blur water falls or crashing waves). This is one effect you cannot replicate in Lightroon/Photoshop.
For those of us who do not want to use post possessing their images, filters add a small edge to the images. So in our case, yes a Polor filter will be used within specific images and kept on the 100mm lens at all times.
David in Dallas wrote:
I believe most recent cameras warn against using a linear polarizer, as it affects the auto-focus mechanism (or the auto exposure). Circular polarizers apparently are OK.
Speaking as a Physicist, All photographic polarizers are linear. The only circular thing about them is the mounting to make it possible to rotate it to the best angle.
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