Ugly Hedgehog - Photography Forum
Home Active Topics Newest Pictures Search Login Register
Main Photography Discussion
Zoom Vs. Prime
Page <<first <prev 3 of 3
Aug 2, 2019 14:31:36   #
rick_n_wv Loc: Charleston WV
 
I use both. I like to use a prime at times. Use mostly zooms though. Using good zooms means sharpness has little to do with it. In today world not sure you could tell the difference between a good zooms versus a good prime. Most of the time it will be a perspective, situation or convenience based decision.

Reply
Aug 2, 2019 14:33:41   #
PHRubin Loc: Nashville TN USA
 
Mister H wrote:
...Basically enlarging the 35mm shot to equal the 55mm. Do I end up with something just as good or better. .


NO! By enlarging you are cropping. By cropping you are throwing away pixels. The result of a 35 to 55 crop leaves only 40.5% of the pixels. (35/55 in both height and width).

Reply
Aug 2, 2019 15:14:00   #
SuperflyTNT Loc: Manassas VA
 
The 18-55 is a good kit lens. Unless you need the extra light from a faster lens, I don’t think cropping the 35 would give you any appreciable difference. BUT... though my normal walk around lens is an 18-200 zoom, if I’m just going out to shoot with no real objective, I love to just use the 35. It takes my back to my film days when all I had was that 50mm lens. It makes you move around more and you see things differently. You “see” shots more. I think that rather than shooting in manual mode, (I can have just as much control shooting in AP and using EC), will really help make you a better photographer.

Reply
 
 
Aug 2, 2019 15:32:11   #
Najataagihe
 
PHRubin wrote:
NO! By enlarging you are cropping. By cropping you are throwing away pixels. The result of a 35 to 55 crop leaves only 40.5% of the pixels. (35/55 in both height and width).


We throw away pixels every time we print or use a monitor, unless you are trying to print 32" X 40" and view it from close enough to make your eyes cross.

The key question is, "For what display medium is the shot intended?".

Unless you are going to print HUGE prints viewed from close distances, how many pixels you throw away is moot.

If all you are going to do is view them with a computer or something even smaller, cropping a 35mm focal length to 50, 85, 100 or even 200 is not going to result in any discernable difference IN THE FINAL VIEWING FORMAT.

With any camera over 10 megapixels, there is NO degradation under most viewing conditions.

Best computer viewer in the world - MAYBE 5 megapixels.

MOST computer viewers - 2 megapixels.


If you are extremely particular about your final results on a computer monitor, the formula is simple:

C/V=R

C = Camera resolution

V = Viewing resolution

R = Maximum zoom Ratio by cropping.


So with today's 2 megapixel computer monitors and a 35mm lens on a 24 MP camera, 24/2=12, so 35X12 is 420.

IF you get the cropping EXACTLY right, you could crop to a 420mm equivalent.

Keep it under that for more wiggle room.


Cropping 35mm to 200mm is not going to show any difference under most viewing conditions.

On extremely large prints, you are not going to see a difference unless you are too close to see the entire print.


If you want the ULTIMATE in resolution UNDER LABORATORY CONDITIONS, shoot RAW, never crop your photos and ALWAYS use a camera with more than 50 megapixels in its sensor.


Bottom line: Today's cameras are so good, worrying about throwing away pixels is a waste of time.

They expose more pixels than you can use, anyway.

Take the camera out, make the shot, crop-zoom all you want and see if you like the results.


As much as musicians and photographers try to quantify what they are doing in the false hope of finding a formula that will result in perfection, every time, both activities are ART and follow no hard, fast rules.


Some of my best solos and best photographs break all the "rules", but result in something different that my audience likes.


As I tell my students over and over, again, YOUR opinion is irrelevant.

The only opinion that counts is that of your audience.

If you are your audience, fine - make yourself happy.


Remember, it is your audience who determines whether or not you are producing art or garbage - not you.


Pixel, schmixel.

Do THEY like it, or not?

If they like it, will they pay you to do it, again?

8)

Reply
Aug 2, 2019 15:45:38   #
DirtFarmer Loc: Escaped from the NYC area, back to MA
 
In the early days of zoom lenses there were definite compromises that made prime lenses distinctively better. Things have improved, and current zoom lenses are very good. Pixel peepers will see differences but a good zoom lens will give you good results.

The superzooms may be another consideration. I have a 28-300 for my Nikon and it is fine for casual shots but I wouldn't use it for paid work. I do use the 24-70, 70-200, and 200-500 for important shots. Photos of my vacations and family, I can live with a little soft focus.

Reply
Aug 2, 2019 16:18:32   #
srt101fan
 
Najataagihe wrote:
We throw away pixels every time we print or use a monitor, unless you are trying to print 32" X 40" and view it from close enough to make your eyes cross.

The key question is, "For what display medium is the shot intended?".

Unless you are going to print HUGE prints viewed from close distances, how many pixels you throw away is moot.

If all you are going to do is view them with a computer or something even smaller, cropping a 35mm focal length to 50, 85, 100 or even 200 is not going to result in any discernable difference IN THE FINAL VIEWING FORMAT.

With any camera over 10 megapixels, there is NO degradation under most viewing conditions.

Best computer viewer in the world - MAYBE 5 megapixels.

MOST computer viewers - 2 megapixels.


If you are extremely particular about your final results on a computer monitor, the formula is simple:

C/V=R

C = Camera resolution

V = Viewing resolution

R = Maximum zoom Ratio by cropping.


So with today's 2 megapixel computer monitors and a 35mm lens on a 24 MP camera, 24/2=12, so 35X12 is 420.

IF you get the cropping EXACTLY right, you could crop to a 420mm equivalent.

Keep it under that for more wiggle room.


Cropping 35mm to 200mm is not going to show any difference under most viewing conditions.

On extremely large prints, you are not going to see a difference unless you are too close to see the entire print.


If you want the ULTIMATE in resolution UNDER LABORATORY CONDITIONS, shoot RAW, never crop your photos and ALWAYS use a camera with more than 50 megapixels in its sensor.


Bottom line: Today's cameras are so good, worrying about throwing away pixels is a waste of time.

They expose more pixels than you can use, anyway.

Take the camera out, make the shot, crop-zoom all you want and see if you like the results.


As much as musicians and photographers try to quantify what they are doing in the false hope of finding a formula that will result in perfection, every time, both activities are ART and follow no hard, fast rules.


Some of my best solos and best photographs break all the "rules", but result in something different that my audience likes.


As I tell my students over and over, again, YOUR opinion is irrelevant.

The only opinion that counts is that of your audience.

If you are your audience, fine - make yourself happy.


Remember, it is your audience who determines whether or not you are producing art or garbage - not you.


Pixel, schmixel.

Do THEY like it, or not?

If they like it, will they pay you to do it, again?

8)
We throw away pixels every time we print or use a ... (show quote)


Pixel hoarders will have trouble agreeing with you, but your comments are instructive and people should give them serious consideration.

Reply
Aug 2, 2019 16:38:22   #
G Brown Loc: Sunny Bognor Regis West Sussex UK
 
A prime lens focuses with a full depth of field at its length.
A zoom lens has a variable depth of field depending upon where it is focussed.....so distant shots zoomed in will have a shallow depth of field - can look flat...but this 'dissapears' the closer you are to the subject and therefore using 'less zoom'.

Your eyes focus on various points of 'view' so that you can distinguish relative distances 'in focus'....lenses are set ......so that a known dof is achieved.....whether you like it or not....or can actually see the subtle differences this causes.

have fun by getting to know 'which' of your lenses gives you the image you want.

a tool is a tool is a tool, the craftsman decides which to use and why.

Reply
 
 
Aug 2, 2019 18:19:42   #
lightchime Loc: Somewhere Over The Rainbow
 
rehess wrote:
Faster lenses have 2 purposes:
1. Low light photography
2. Very thin DOF

My Pentax KP has excellent high ISO performance, so I no longer have need of the first purpose. I really prefer showing the context of the subject, so personally I avoid the second purpose also.




Do faster lenses also offer more light for focusing?

Reply
Aug 2, 2019 18:39:30   #
Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States
 
Najataagihe wrote:
We throw away pixels every time we print or use a monitor, unless you are trying to print 32" X 40" and view it from close enough to make your eyes cross.

The key question is, "For what display medium is the shot intended?".

Unless you are going to print HUGE prints viewed from close distances, how many pixels you throw away is moot.

If all you are going to do is view them with a computer or something even smaller, cropping a 35mm focal length to 50, 85, 100 or even 200 is not going to result in any discernable difference IN THE FINAL VIEWING FORMAT.

With any camera over 10 megapixels, there is NO degradation under most viewing conditions.

Best computer viewer in the world - MAYBE 5 megapixels.

MOST computer viewers - 2 megapixels.


If you are extremely particular about your final results on a computer monitor, the formula is simple:

C/V=R

C = Camera resolution

V = Viewing resolution

R = Maximum zoom Ratio by cropping.


So with today's 2 megapixel computer monitors and a 35mm lens on a 24 MP camera, 24/2=12, so 35X12 is 420.

IF you get the cropping EXACTLY right, you could crop to a 420mm equivalent.

Keep it under that for more wiggle room.


Cropping 35mm to 200mm is not going to show any difference under most viewing conditions.

On extremely large prints, you are not going to see a difference unless you are too close to see the entire print.


If you want the ULTIMATE in resolution UNDER LABORATORY CONDITIONS, shoot RAW, never crop your photos and ALWAYS use a camera with more than 50 megapixels in its sensor.


Bottom line: Today's cameras are so good, worrying about throwing away pixels is a waste of time.

They expose more pixels than you can use, anyway.

Take the camera out, make the shot, crop-zoom all you want and see if you like the results.


As much as musicians and photographers try to quantify what they are doing in the false hope of finding a formula that will result in perfection, every time, both activities are ART and follow no hard, fast rules.


Some of my best solos and best photographs break all the "rules", but result in something different that my audience likes.


As I tell my students over and over, again, YOUR opinion is irrelevant.

The only opinion that counts is that of your audience.

If you are your audience, fine - make yourself happy.


Remember, it is your audience who determines whether or not you are producing art or garbage - not you.


Pixel, schmixel.

Do THEY like it, or not?

If they like it, will they pay you to do it, again?

8)
We throw away pixels every time we print or use a ... (show quote)



(My philosophy. I've made great 8x10s from a 5Mp camera.)

Reply
Aug 2, 2019 20:03:00   #
dandi Loc: near Seattle, WA
 
Longshadow wrote:

(My philosophy. I've made great 8x10s from a 5Mp camera.)


My prints from Nikon D70 (6mp) still look very good.

Reply
Aug 2, 2019 21:35:36   #
LWW Loc: Banana Republic of America
 
srt101fan wrote:
You might also want to consider lens speed (max aperture) in your deliberations. My walk-around lens is a 18-300 zoom. But my Nikon DX 35mm is considerably faster and better suited for low light photography.


Ditto.

Reply
 
 
Aug 2, 2019 22:22:50   #
ronpier Loc: Poland Ohio
 
Mister H wrote:
I have a Nikon D3400 with the two kit lenses. I also have a Nikon D80 I purchased from a member and still trying to learn that one (a bigger challenge). I generally use my 18-55mm lens on the D3400 for most of my shots. It covers the range most of the time. So my question is to the quality of a shot when using the zoom at 55mm or a prime 35mm lens. Aside from sharpness (based on what I think I've learned here), can the 35mm shot be cropped to equal what the 55mm got. Basically enlarging the 35mm shot to equal the 55mm. Do I end up with something just as good or better. Like many here, depending on the situation, I don't want to carry to much if possible. Sometime I can take everything. Hope I explained this properly. Thanks to this site, I kept my camera in manual mode yesterday for every shot for the first time (about 40) and overall did well. Need more practice, but I'm finally comfortable with manual mode.
I have a Nikon D3400 with the two kit lenses. I al... (show quote)


Instead of the 18-55 kit lens I use a Tamron 28-75 f2.8 constant aperture. If I need to go wider I use a Tamron 17-50 f2.8 also constant aperture. Both lenses are very sharp, fast focus and great in low light. Both also work well with my D90.

Reply
Aug 3, 2019 05:19:54   #
RWR Loc: La Mesa, CA
 
lightchime wrote:
Do faster lenses also offer more light for focusing?

Yes indeed, a fast lens is easier to focus in low light.

Reply
Aug 3, 2019 10:42:46   #
Mister H Loc: Michigan
 
Mister H wrote:
I have a Nikon D3400 with the two kit lenses. I also have a Nikon D80 I purchased from a member and still trying to learn that one (a bigger challenge). I generally use my 18-55mm lens on the D3400 for most of my shots. It covers the range most of the time. So my question is to the quality of a shot when using the zoom at 55mm or a prime 35mm lens. Aside from sharpness (based on what I think I've learned here), can the 35mm shot be cropped to equal what the 55mm got. Basically enlarging the 35mm shot to equal the 55mm. Do I end up with something just as good or better. Like many here, depending on the situation, I don't want to carry to much if possible. Sometime I can take everything. Hope I explained this properly. Thanks to this site, I kept my camera in manual mode yesterday for every shot for the first time (about 40) and overall did well. Need more practice, but I'm finally comfortable with manual mode.
I have a Nikon D3400 with the two kit lenses. I al... (show quote)


As with any question of this sort you get a lot of different answers and/or opinions. Combined, they made for a great learning experience for me. I want to thank everyone who answered, commented or outlined their knowledge on the subject. Love being part of this group and the knowledge that can be gained as well. Of course the photos are a plus.

Reply
Page <<first <prev 3 of 3
If you want to reply, then register here. Registration is free and your account is created instantly, so you can post right away.
Main Photography Discussion
UglyHedgehog.com - Forum
Copyright 2011-2024 Ugly Hedgehog, Inc.