I'd try taking the full image but cropping so the figure is moved left of center and looking down the wave to create some off center tension with the line of action moving diagonally top right to lower left to increase the dynamic effect of the photo. I'd move the medium crop figure also to the right so he's looking down to the left. Same reasons. The tight crop is great but he's looking out of the frame and leads the eye out of the action too quickly. What happens if you make the frame horizontal instead of vertical?
obviously they all look great... I do prefer the first version... In my eyes it brings the action right up front and in your face.... Always enjoy your surfing shots...
I like the Tight "A" image because the subject is more important than the wave to me. The image is somewhat over-cooked for my taste and as such causes a distraction when I view it in the Full "C" version which would otherwise be a great image but for the weird water particles that seem unnatural to me.
I'm sharing a rather dynamic photo I took today to ask your opinion on which way to crop. Tight (A), Medium (B), or full image (C)
I agree with pixelstan, less is more. If I knew the settings, camera, lens, etc. I could further evaluate the shots. As it were I like the third one, gives the surfer somewhere to go. Sharpening is to much for my taste, I like a more natural look. I look at shots at 100%. Still good work. How much cropping from the in the camera did you do? The more cropping the more problems.