Motion, Moments, and Memories... are what I shoot.
Nov 5, 2011 03:09:20 #
I've been shooting for about 40 years, but didn't start to get really serious about it or start making money from my photography, until about a dozen years ago. Though I have some landscapes & such, most of my non-sports action work are close ups of critters (head shots... or in motion).
My specialty is motion - sports action is always fun & interesting. People or critters. I enjoy shooting a wide variety of things on land and in the water. Basketball, Football, Track, Equine Events, Motor Cross, Paragliding, Zip Lining, White Water Rafting, Scuba diving, etc.
I usually shoot ambient light, freehand about 80 to 90% of the time, unless doing studio work on still objects or underwater. I shoot primarily canons... but have over 20 different cameras (currently a half dozen are Canon dSLR's). I've owned over 100 different cameras over the years. I bought my first 'digital' in 1988... one of the first in the USA, definitely in my area. Worked great for the net, but sucked anything larger than 4x6 back then.
I refuse to shoot weddings, though I'd probably shoot divorces, and would consider conceptions (that's a joke... but, it normally ends family & friends from trying to talk me into shooting weddings). A) I've had a couple (weddings), and the divorce rate is way to high, B) I don't have the right personality required to do that type of hand-holding & babying... and one-time sales, and C) critters & athletes are more fun for me to shoot than wedding parties. So, I just don't do them. I'd rather shoot a funeral! Koodo's to those that enjoy that type of shooting... I hope y'all are making bank, and enjoying it. I have a couple friends I refer that stuff to when asked, and they love it .
If interested, some of my work can be seen at: TerryMercer.com
Some things I'm still figuring out, sales wise. I've had stuff published in text books, magazines, news papers, posters, puzzles, greeting cards, t-shirts, etc. over the years. Permanent displays in a few museums, travel visitors centers, and a whole lot of web sites, brochures, and other marketing materials. The upside is it's helped me justify some nice equipment over the years. The downside is that it's my secondary business & income source, not primary as I'd hoped (those damn weddings, not doing them is costly, LOL).
My specialty is motion - sports action is always fun & interesting. People or critters. I enjoy shooting a wide variety of things on land and in the water. Basketball, Football, Track, Equine Events, Motor Cross, Paragliding, Zip Lining, White Water Rafting, Scuba diving, etc.
I usually shoot ambient light, freehand about 80 to 90% of the time, unless doing studio work on still objects or underwater. I shoot primarily canons... but have over 20 different cameras (currently a half dozen are Canon dSLR's). I've owned over 100 different cameras over the years. I bought my first 'digital' in 1988... one of the first in the USA, definitely in my area. Worked great for the net, but sucked anything larger than 4x6 back then.
I refuse to shoot weddings, though I'd probably shoot divorces, and would consider conceptions (that's a joke... but, it normally ends family & friends from trying to talk me into shooting weddings). A) I've had a couple (weddings), and the divorce rate is way to high, B) I don't have the right personality required to do that type of hand-holding & babying... and one-time sales, and C) critters & athletes are more fun for me to shoot than wedding parties. So, I just don't do them. I'd rather shoot a funeral! Koodo's to those that enjoy that type of shooting... I hope y'all are making bank, and enjoying it. I have a couple friends I refer that stuff to when asked, and they love it .
If interested, some of my work can be seen at: TerryMercer.com
Some things I'm still figuring out, sales wise. I've had stuff published in text books, magazines, news papers, posters, puzzles, greeting cards, t-shirts, etc. over the years. Permanent displays in a few museums, travel visitors centers, and a whole lot of web sites, brochures, and other marketing materials. The upside is it's helped me justify some nice equipment over the years. The downside is that it's my secondary business & income source, not primary as I'd hoped (those damn weddings, not doing them is costly, LOL).
Nov 5, 2011 11:49:05 #
The 1st one is very interesting. Is that real or, what were you thinking??
I like them!!
I like them!!
Nov 5, 2011 12:13:03 #
LOL - Absolutely real... I have a full set of that butterfly (and another) 'eating' off the dead fish. Seems that is where the butterflies get extra minerals & nutrients, and though I'd never seen it before then... I've seen it a couple times since.
Nov 5, 2011 12:13:44 #
Nov 5, 2011 12:19:36 #
foghornleg90 wrote:
LOL - Absolutely real... I have a full set of that butterfly (and another) 'eating' off the dead fish. Seems that is where the butterflies get extra minerals & nutrients, and though I'd never seen it before then... I've seen it a couple times since.
:thumbup:
Nov 5, 2011 12:32:57 #
Nov 5, 2011 14:13:35 #
Nov 6, 2011 02:09:02 #
Nov 6, 2011 02:37:02 #
How to get a great lightening shot... hummm... settings, practice, and some luck. But, it's usually re-creatable in any good storm, so luck has much less to do with it.
First, you've gotta have some great lightening. There needs to be some predictability in WHERE the lightening will strike. Like ocean waves, or dragon flies patrolling their territory, or Osprey's fishing to feed their young, there is usually some predictability. There are usually some 'sets' or timing to pay attention to, and get figured out. In the shot above, note the 'dark wall' cover above?!?! All the lightening came from that. Usually, lightening storms have multiple flashes in the same general area, or same 'set' of cloud cover... focus on those, pay attention to the winds, and the movement of those clouds - because that is where the lightening will be going.
Second, weather/water proof your camera (don't want anyone getting their camera ruined). They make some great covers, with one or both hand holes... that are 'tripod ready.' If you can, a porch or covered deck is great... better without any glass in the way (which will spot up if you aren't careful).
Third, I normally set the focus to manual & infinity... and tweak it from there. Usually fairly wide angle, seldom over 100mm, and seldom under 50mm. You don't want to crop too much, because you might want to blow it up to poster size or bigger. At the same time, too light isn't great for some applications (like advertizing, which needs copy space).
Forth, I usually try to set the aperature to a broad DoF (narrow) f8 or above to get the greatest distance potential.
Fifth, I try to set the shutter speed as slow as possible... which means that it needs to be on a tripod. 30 seconds, or sometimes even a shutter lock if it's dark enough. I never use the 'screen' during the shooting or focusing, only the preview to make sure things are in focus & sharp enough. If you have shutter lock... a really cool trick is to lock it open, and when the lightening occurs, slide a black board or card in from of the lens and unlock it. Double check your focus & settings, and lock it back up for the next shot...
Sixth, for lightening (and long shutters), I almost always use a wired remote trigger... less camera shake... none if your tripod is weighted & balanced correctly. Stability for long shutter speed & locks is vital.
Seventh, low ISO (100 usually... because a higher ISO will blow out the shot if the strike is too bright or close).
The settings for the shot above:
ISO 100
55mm
f/14
30s (30/1)
I've never YET shot any tornado funnels... but that's my hope, goal, and plan in the near future. And I'll be getting some more lightening strikes. They are surprisingly popular, especially if there are some clouds showing, or it's 'seen' hitting a tree, or building, or over a city.
First, you've gotta have some great lightening. There needs to be some predictability in WHERE the lightening will strike. Like ocean waves, or dragon flies patrolling their territory, or Osprey's fishing to feed their young, there is usually some predictability. There are usually some 'sets' or timing to pay attention to, and get figured out. In the shot above, note the 'dark wall' cover above?!?! All the lightening came from that. Usually, lightening storms have multiple flashes in the same general area, or same 'set' of cloud cover... focus on those, pay attention to the winds, and the movement of those clouds - because that is where the lightening will be going.
Second, weather/water proof your camera (don't want anyone getting their camera ruined). They make some great covers, with one or both hand holes... that are 'tripod ready.' If you can, a porch or covered deck is great... better without any glass in the way (which will spot up if you aren't careful).
Third, I normally set the focus to manual & infinity... and tweak it from there. Usually fairly wide angle, seldom over 100mm, and seldom under 50mm. You don't want to crop too much, because you might want to blow it up to poster size or bigger. At the same time, too light isn't great for some applications (like advertizing, which needs copy space).
Forth, I usually try to set the aperature to a broad DoF (narrow) f8 or above to get the greatest distance potential.
Fifth, I try to set the shutter speed as slow as possible... which means that it needs to be on a tripod. 30 seconds, or sometimes even a shutter lock if it's dark enough. I never use the 'screen' during the shooting or focusing, only the preview to make sure things are in focus & sharp enough. If you have shutter lock... a really cool trick is to lock it open, and when the lightening occurs, slide a black board or card in from of the lens and unlock it. Double check your focus & settings, and lock it back up for the next shot...
Sixth, for lightening (and long shutters), I almost always use a wired remote trigger... less camera shake... none if your tripod is weighted & balanced correctly. Stability for long shutter speed & locks is vital.
Seventh, low ISO (100 usually... because a higher ISO will blow out the shot if the strike is too bright or close).
The settings for the shot above:
ISO 100
55mm
f/14
30s (30/1)
I've never YET shot any tornado funnels... but that's my hope, goal, and plan in the near future. And I'll be getting some more lightening strikes. They are surprisingly popular, especially if there are some clouds showing, or it's 'seen' hitting a tree, or building, or over a city.
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