Fran Loc: Northeast, United States

I used my 50mm 1.8 last night and some of the pictures were out of focus even though the camera focused on the face. Other pictures focused fine. The lens took a spill a few months back and I think it might now have issues. How do I tell if it's me or the lens?

HarryBinNC Loc: Blue Ridge Mtns, No.Carolina, USA

Fran -
There is a simple procedure used by a lot of experienced photographers that would cure 99% of peoples' focus problems. This requires a camera that will allow you to confine the focus to the single center focus sensor.

Are you using a Canon? If so, since I am a Nikon shooter I can't give you the specific buttons/menu items/terminology, but I am sure there are plenty of Canonites here that can help you with that if you can't get it from the manual.

Anyway, once you have set the center spot as your focus point, place that center point on what you want to be in focus (that would typically be the nearest eye if you are doing a portrait). Now, press the shutter release half way down and wait for the focus affirmation beep or whatever other indicator your camera provides. If you want to recompose the shot to get the eye you focused on somewhere else in the frame (rule of thirds?), keep the shutter button 1/2 pressed to maintain the focus, move the camera to recompose, then press the shutter down the rest of the way to take the shot. This becomes 2nd nature with very little practice.

Even if you don't end up using the "focus and recompose" procedure regularly, it is good to know how to do it because it will quickly indicate whether the lens and/or camera truly has a focusing issue. In your case, I would bet that the lens is just fine, and that the camera is just getting confused and focusing on the Christmas Tree instead of the young woman.

I don't care how sophisticated modern camera focus systems are, the best of them focus on the wrong thing now and then, blow the exposure, etc - they can't know what you want, they can only guess. That is why a lot of experienced photographers ignore 90% of the automation in modern cameras and use manual settings most of the time. Being able to do this gives YOU the control over your camera rather than leaving the critical decisions to a faceless engineer somewhere in Asia.

I hope this helps - Let us know if and how this works out for you.

Birdguide Loc: Ormond Beach, FL

Wow, this is why I love UHH, a long detailed answer that even the newest of photographers can understand. Kudos to you.

JR1 Loc: Tavistock, Devon, UK

I have never ever used all focus points, all but the centre one is turned off, I know it sounds silly but do you check the lit ones when shooting to see where the focus is as you should, if you do you will see which are on the subject.

You don't say anything about what gear you have so we can say what to do to adjust it

LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field

The first two are focused on the tree-- whether from the spill or from "operator error".

If your camera has the option of selecting spot focus and moving this spot in the frame, you might give it a go.

Using this technique, there is no need to use the "focus & recompose" method. As you depress the shutter, the camera/lens will lock focus. You may also want to select "lock focus" so the shutter is prevented from firing unless focus is achieved.

What camera model?

Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA

I completely concur with Harry & JR1. Both of my DSLRs are set to small central spot A-F.
I focus on subject, the move camera to compose.

HarryBinNC Loc: Blue Ridge Mtns, No.Carolina, USA

For me, it is almost always easier (and faster) to "focus and recompose" than it is to move the focus point around the screen. The only time I move the focus point is when I am shooting from a tripod, where it is inconvenient and time consuming to move the camera around to focus. Unfortunately, even on a tripod, I often find that there will not be a focus sensor that covers what I am trying to zero in on, so I end up moving the camera anyway. And I probably do handheld vs. tripod about 50/50.

Fran Loc: Northeast, United States

Thank you this is great information. Clearly explained!!!

Fran Loc: Northeast, United States

I'm using a canon 7D. I selected the AF Point Expansion mode. This mode has one main AF point. The red box is on the girl's face. I double checked it in the canon software and it confirms that the focus point is on her face. It is really strange that the sharpness is on the tree rather than the girl. I'm sure it's operator error. I'll select single spot focus and see what I end up with. Thanks everyone.

Fran Loc: Northeast, United States

I suspect I was the issue. I changed the focus point to spot and didn't encounter the issue.

alycrom Loc: Aberdeen Scotland

Anyway, once you have set the center spot as your focus point, place that center point on what you want to be in focus (that would typically be the nearest eye if you are doing a portrait). Now, press the shutter release half way down and wait for the focus affirmation beep or whatever other indicator your camera provides. If you want to recompose the shot to get the eye you focused on somewhere else in the frame (rule of thirds?), keep the shutter button 1/2 pressed to maintain the focus, move the camera to recompose, then press the shutter down the rest of the way to take the shot. This becomes 2nd nature with very little practice.

Even if you don't end up using the "focus and recompose" procedure regularly, it is good to know how to do it because it will quickly indicate whether the lens and/or camera truly has a focusing issue. In your case, I would bet that the lens is just fine, and that the camera is just getting confused and focusing on the Christmas Tree instead of the young woman.

I don't care how sophisticated modern camera focus systems are, the best of them focus on the wrong thing now and then, blow the exposure, etc - they can't know what you want, they can only guess. That is why a lot of experienced photographers ignore 90% of the automation in modern cameras and use manual settings most of the time. Being able to do this gives YOU the control over your camera rather than leaving the critical decisions to a faceless engineer somewhere in Asia.

I hope this helps - Let us know if and how this works out for you.[/quote]

Thank you for this very understandable explanation - very helpful! i never really grasped what 'focus then recompose' meant, now i do!

DaveMM Loc: Port Elizabeth, South Africa

Instead of the 'focus and recompose' option, consider 'Back button focus' (search UGG for some posts on this, and look at your camera manual - on the T2i it comes under 'Custom functions C.Fn-9 - Shutter/AE lock' function)

MaryRose Loc: East Texas

:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

clixpix Loc: Surprise, Arizona

I use a Canon 50D for some hummingbird photos over the past few days. The pics were coming out a little soft as you can see on the ones I posted a couple of days ago. I use the back button focus but I discovered that I was too quick to press the shutter. I did not let the IS fully engage to stabilize the lens. The last few photos I took, I engaged the shutter as the bird was coming to the feeder and the IS had stabilized the lens so when the shot was taken, the lens was stabilized. Photos are much better after I did this procedure. Might give that a try.

marcomarks Loc: Ft. Myers, FL

Nothing is wrong with your lens. On the first two shots your focus is perfect - on the tree but not the person. On the last shot your focus is also perfect - on the person but not the tree.

As others have said, you could use spot focus and that would assure the subject you see the focus indicator on through the viewfinder would be what's in focus (in this case, the person).

Another option would be to shoot in aperture priority mode, choose a fairly high f/8 or f/11 aperture number on your lens, and the person AND tree (as well as stuff in front of the person and behind the tree) would more likely BOTH be in focus because of an increased "depth of field."