Sigma 105 macro for portraiture
Dec 6, 2012 16:16:07 #
elandel
Loc: Milan, Italy
Hi all.
I have a Sigma 105 macro for Nikon and this weekend will have to take some portatrits of my daughter. Wondering if this lens is good for this type of photography. I also have a 50 f/1.8 afd and Tamron 28-75 f/2.8 thay maybe I could use.
I haven't much experince in portraits so I'm just asking. I read that the 85 af is also a great lens but honestly don't want to buy another lens yet just for some shots.
I'll use a D700 and would also appreciate some tips on settings. It should be a snowy day (maybe) and Sunday seems to be sunny - thats what the weathwer broadcast says anyway.
Thanks.
I have a Sigma 105 macro for Nikon and this weekend will have to take some portatrits of my daughter. Wondering if this lens is good for this type of photography. I also have a 50 f/1.8 afd and Tamron 28-75 f/2.8 thay maybe I could use.
I haven't much experince in portraits so I'm just asking. I read that the 85 af is also a great lens but honestly don't want to buy another lens yet just for some shots.
I'll use a D700 and would also appreciate some tips on settings. It should be a snowy day (maybe) and Sunday seems to be sunny - thats what the weathwer broadcast says anyway.
Thanks.
Dec 7, 2012 01:32:23 #
For an FX-format camera, your 105-mm is a bit long for tradional portrait work. You will need a bit of distance from subject to capture full body, and a bit closer for bust photos & head-&-shoulder. The only real difference will be more output needed if fill light is camera-mounted.
Dec 7, 2012 02:53:17 #
Pepper
Loc: Planet Earth Country USA
I use the 105mm on my D90 for portraits and love it. It allows me to be a bit further from my subject which tends to be less intimidating.
Dec 7, 2012 03:46:47 #
elandel
Loc: Milan, Italy
Today dull light. Any tips? To use fill flash do I have to use particular settings or i-ttl will automatically do it? I have a sb600.
Dec 7, 2012 04:12:04 #
elandel wrote:
I suggest that you bounce your SB-600 of off a 45-degree reflector card, attached above speedlight. Or a diffuser, similar to a Gary Fong (which are pricey).Today dull light. Any tips? To use fill flash do I have to use particular settings or i-ttl will automatically do it? I have a sb600.
Dec 7, 2012 04:14:53 #
elandel
Loc: Milan, Italy
Nikonian72 wrote:
elandel wrote:
I suggest that you bounce your SB-600 of off a 45-degree reflector card, attached above speedlight. Or a diffuser, similar to a Gary Fong (which are pricey).Today dull light. Any tips? To use fill flash do I have to use particular settings or i-ttl will automatically do it? I have a sb600.
I'll use a reflector card. Thanks
Dec 7, 2012 07:42:22 #
105mm is a very good focal length for portraits as at f/8 the background does go soft and the images have a good feel about them. Use a good reflector and ambient light without flash to get some contrast in the lighting
Dec 7, 2012 08:51:59 #
"Dull" light is about as good as you can get for portraits. If you need fill light I would recommend a reflector. If you don't have one you can use a car window sun shade or take a piece of cardboard and rumble up some tin foil and put it on the cardboard. Your 105 is a great length for head and shoulder. I would open it wide open so you can get super good bokeh in the background. On most shots you will want to have her body at an angle to the camera. Even skinny girls look like football players when they have their bodies square with the camera. I would spend some time looking on the net at Photographers Web pages for some ideas on posing. - Dave
Dec 7, 2012 09:53:56 #
elandel
Loc: Milan, Italy
Now it's snowing so I go out tomorrow with my daughter and see what I get. If there is snow around I suppose I should adjust the exposure, am I right?
Dec 7, 2012 11:15:55 #
elandel wrote:
If there is snow around I suppose I should adjust the exposure, am I right?
If you are just shooting head & shoulders and not including the snow in the photo, no compensation is needed. When you include a lot of light area like snow, sand or sky in the photo, you will probably need to compensate for the brighter areas.
Frame the face only, no hair, w/o any of the background showing and see what the meter reads. You may need to open up about a stop from there.
Dec 7, 2012 13:19:12 #
elandel
Loc: Milan, Italy
GoofyNewfie wrote:
quote=elandel If there is snow around I suppose I... (show quote)
Thanks, I'll try that ;)
Dec 7, 2012 13:32:00 #
I concur with GoofyNewfie.
I suggest manual settings, so snow does not over-influence your cameras meter. Shoot raw, which has better latitude than just JPG.
View your LCD for proper exposure of subject's face. Use a HoodLoupe, so outside lighting will not detract from viewing your LCD.
I suggest manual settings, so snow does not over-influence your cameras meter. Shoot raw, which has better latitude than just JPG.
View your LCD for proper exposure of subject's face. Use a HoodLoupe, so outside lighting will not detract from viewing your LCD.
Dec 7, 2012 14:02:41 #
Nikonian72 wrote:
I concur with GoofyNewfie.
I suggest manual settings, so snow does not over-influence your cameras meter. Shoot raw, which has better latitude than just JPG.
View your LCD for proper exposure of face. Use a HoodLoupe, so outside lighting will not detract from viewing your LCD.
I suggest manual settings, so snow does not over-influence your cameras meter. Shoot raw, which has better latitude than just JPG.
View your LCD for proper exposure of face. Use a HoodLoupe, so outside lighting will not detract from viewing your LCD.
[i[HoodLoupe[/i]...still need to get one.
Thanks for the reminder.
Dec 7, 2012 18:53:38 #
Dec 7, 2012 19:49:56 #
Bram boy
Loc: Vancouver Island B.C. Canada
Your in the ball park with the 105 . I prefered it to the 85 mm when i was
Full frame in the film days
Full frame in the film days
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