joecichjr
Loc: Chicago S. Suburbs, Illinois, USA
billnikon wrote:
Your exposures were off. You need to meter any green tree or grass under the same lighting conditions as the bird is being exposed for. Most green objects reflect 18% of the light reaching them, same as a gray card, so metering a green tree or grass will give you a very accurate exposure reading.
Use manual, then raise your camera to the sky and shoot the birds.
Your most likely using auto and your camera meter is reading the sky and saying to itself, " boy that is bright, I need to stop down". Then you get underexposed images.
Use my method and your bird shots will improve.
Your exposures were off. You need to meter any gre... (
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OMG
Just to show you what kind of decorator I am, I immediately thought of the beautiful room wallpaper this shot would make
In spite of putting this shot to a misguided use, I think whatever you did to it is now absolutely a stunner π―π―π―π―π―
prcb1949 wrote:
Took the following shots this morning against very grey skies. I have done some PP on each of the originals. I am also including some image info as per windows 10 photo editor.
prcb1949 (1948 was also a very good year; that is when I began my life), I very much liked what you captured. Flyinng birds are tough subjects.
I downloaded your third photo, cropped it, adjusted contrast and brightness, and used sharpness and applied a median filter with level 5 to get rid of jpeg artifacts, as necessary. All of this was done with a freeware program called IrfanView. If you do bot have it, get it and give it a try. I'd be glad to share what I have learned from using it if you get stuck.
The first picture is what I was able to get by applying the post-processing that I have described above to your third image.
The second photo is where I took my first revision and enlarged both the horizontal and vertical dimensions by 2X and applying some sharpening and median filter. --Richard
profbowman wrote:
prcb1949 (1948 was also a very good year; that is when I began my life), I very much liked what you captured. Flyinng birds are tough subjects.
I downloaded your third photo, cropped it, adjusted contrast and brightness, and used sharpness and applied a median filter with level 5 to get rid of jpeg artifacts, as necessary. All of this was done with a freeware program called IrfanView. If you do bot have it, get it and give it a try. I'd be glad to share what I have learned from using it if you get stuck.
The first picture is what I was able to get by applying the post-processing that I have described above to your third image.
The second photo is where I took my first revision and enlarged both the horizontal and vertical dimensions by 2X and applying some sharpening and median filter. --Richard
prcb1949 (1948 was also a very good year; that is ... (
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I like what you have done with them thanks for your advice and comments!
I shoot a lot of wildlife always in manuel and auto ISO. Set the AE to single point, Joy stick to group focus. Use single for bears, moose any subject that's slow. Joy stick for all fast moving subjects. Give it a try works great.
joecichjr
Loc: Chicago S. Suburbs, Illinois, USA
profbowman wrote:
prcb1949 (1948 was also a very good year; that is when I began my life), I very much liked what you captured. Flyinng birds are tough subjects.
I downloaded your third photo, cropped it, adjusted contrast and brightness, and used sharpness and applied a median filter with level 5 to get rid of jpeg artifacts, as necessary. All of this was done with a freeware program called IrfanView. If you do bot have it, get it and give it a try. I'd be glad to share what I have learned from using it if you get stuck.
The first picture is what I was able to get by applying the post-processing that I have described above to your third image.
The second photo is where I took my first revision and enlarged both the horizontal and vertical dimensions by 2X and applying some sharpening and median filter. --Richard
prcb1949 (1948 was also a very good year; that is ... (
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Excellent ββπ₯ββ
prcb1949 wrote:
Was using a D500 and a Sigma 150-600 Contemporary.
That is excellent equipment. I would recommend reading Steve Perry's books on the Nikon DSLR autofocus system. His advice is tailored to wildlife photographers.
Back button focus, shooting manual with auto-ISO (max set to 3200-6400 with the D500), group AF or D25 for BIF shots, are techniques I learnt from Steve's book and applied extensively to improve my wildlife shots.
BTW, a pic taken at ISO 6400 with the D500 can be quite noisy. Topaz DeNoise AI - the Standard setting with all defaults works well for me - will be your friend in those situations. π
srsincary wrote:
That is excellent equipment. I would recommend reading Steve Perry's books on the Nikon DSLR autofocus system. His advice is tailored to wildlife photographers.
Back button focus, shooting manual with auto-ISO (max set to 3200-6400 with the D500), group AF or D25 for BIF shots, are techniques I learnt from Steve's book and applied extensively to improve my wildlife shots.
BTW, a pic taken at ISO 6400 with the D500 can be quite noisy. Topaz DeNoise AI - the Standard setting with all defaults works well for me - will be your friend in those situations. π
That is excellent equipment. I would recommend rea... (
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Thanks for you input - I have Steveβs books just need to get into them!π
taffspride
Loc: Originally Wales, now the Sunshine State
the tail feathers seem to be the sharpest, I think you have a depth of field issue,what lens were you using and how far was the subject.
imagemeister wrote:
Your biggest problem is under exposure and the other problem is you are too far away for your focal length. As mentioned, expensive softwares application can help. If you shot raw, that can also help.
.
Second this. Shoot raw. Fill the frame (get closer) to maximize sensor pixels on the subject. And yes a bit underexposed.
Bird's are jittery creatures. You'd think 1/2000s would be high enough shutter speed but you are probably still getting some motion blur affecting sharpness in the face (it is fine where you see it in the wings).
This all adds to one fact. You need better light or a wider aperture since you don't want to increase ISO or lower your shutter speed.
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