Durbar Square, a term often used in South Asian countries, refers to the central plaza located in the historical cities of Nepal, India, and Bhutan. These squares serve as the heart of ancient kingdoms and are known for their rich cultural and architectural heritage. Kathmandu Durbar Square, also known as Hanuman Dhoka, is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site located in the capital city of Nepal. It holds immense historical, cultural, and religious importance. It is not just a physical space but a repository of Nepal's history, culture, and spirituality. The square was once the royal palace complex of the Malla kings, who ruled over the Kathmandu Valley from the 12th to the 18th century, and part of that complex was still there when we visited. As the heart of the ancient city, Durbar Square served as the venue for royal ceremonies, festivals, and important events.

One of the most captivating aspects of Kathmandu Durbar Square is the presence of the Sadhus, whom I showed in my previous post. They add a unique dimension to Durbar's charm, offering visitors a glimpse into the spiritual traditions of the region. As described then, they are holy men, or ascetics, who have renounced worldly pursuits and chosen a life of spirituality. They are often adorned with colored ash, wear minimal clothing, and have long matted, greasy hair. These ascetics dedicate their lives to meditation, yoga, and the pursuit of enlightenment. They are revered by both locals and tourists, who seek blessings from them and admire their austere way of life.

The Sadhus in Durbar Square are an integral part of the religious fabric of the city. They can often be found meditating near ancient temples, performing rituals, or engaging in conversations with passersby seeking spiritual guidance. Some of them spoke English quite well, and we had interesting conversations … particularly when I told them I was Jewish.

As I wrote in that previous post, Nepal experienced a catastrophic earthquake about eight years ago with an unimaginable magnitude of 7.8. This earthquake had a profound impact on the country, as it certainly would on any, causing widespread destruction of infrastructure, cultural heritage sites, and countless lives lost. Kathmandu Durbar Square was not spared from the disaster and, in fact, due to its fragile infrastructure, was particularly badly hit.

The earthquake caused severe damage to the ancient temples and structures in the Square. Many of the centuries-old temples collapsed or suffered significant structural damage. The iconic nine-story Basantapur Tower, a landmark of the square, was reduced to rubble. The destruction was not just physical but also emotional, as the Nepalese people mourned the loss of their cultural heritage.

Nepal is a very poor country. When we were there about twenty years ago, long before that earthquake, Nepal’s GDP was about thirteen billion dollars. New York City’s mayor at the time, Mike Bloomberg, had a net worth of over seventeen billion. (Now it’s past a hundred billion.) So this one person, who I used to see all the time, as I live only a few blocks from him, was actually worth more than the whole of Nepal. How was this poor country worth less than one particular person going to pay for reconstruction?

In the aftermath of the earthquake, a spirit of resilience and determination swept across Nepal. The government, international organizations, and volunteers collaborated to initiate the restoration and reconstruction of Kathmandu Durbar Square, along with other of Kathmandu’s many cultural sites. The priority was to preserve the historical and cultural significance of the site while ensuring its safety for future generations.

The restoration efforts faced various challenges, including funding constraints and the delicate nature of working with ancient structures. Nevertheless, progress is being made, and step by step, the square started to regain some of its lost glory. The restoration also served as a symbol of hope and unity for the Nepalese people who came together to rebuild their heritage with pride. The fact that Durbar Square, along with many other Nepalese sites is a UNESCO site, made getting the money for this from international sources a lot easier.

While the earthquake of 2015 brought immense devastation, it also highlighted the resilience and determination of the Nepalese people to protect and preserve their precious heritage. As the reconstruction efforts continue, and it is my understanding that they still have a long way to go, Kathmandu Durbar Square stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of a nation and the significance of safeguarding all our cultural treasures for generations to come.

As a traveler, when people ask me where I’ve been, I always like to kid around and tell them that I’ve been to Timbuktu, Kathmandu, and Easter Island. Unfortunately, since I’ve visited these remote places, two of the three have since been nearly destroyed.