CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

Alas, you should have stored your film in the fridge from the day it arrived. Too late to change that, but get up and put it all in the fridge tonight before going to bed. Tomorrow, make decisions about what you're likely to shoot in the next few weeks. Keep those rolls in the fridge and move the rest to the freezer.

The Ektra I'd give +0.3 EC, either via the camera's EC or overriding the film DX code down to ISO-80.

I like +1-stop to Portra 400 & 800, so your Portra 800 I'd load as ISO-400, overriding the DX code. Then, treat as fresh film maybe adding +0.3 or +0.6 EC based on the shooting situation.

I don't have experience with the E100.

I've been shooting TMAX 400 and 100 this summer for the first time regularly in a few years. I've decide TMAX 100 is better with colored filter than without. Some of my favorite B&W images come from TMAX 400 at box speed. Today, I'd load as a DX override of ISO-320 and shoot anywhere from ISO-320 to ISO-200 (+0.3 to +1-stop EC). The less I'm not in bright sunshine, the more I'd 'compensate' to give the film more exposure.

The comments are intended to give 'bright' images with a minimal risk of under-exposed film grain. I shoot to have the film scanned and edited in LR, so above +0.3, maybe I'm shooting more for editing than just to achieve a minimal grain / shadow details / etc.

Aloysius Loc: Tampa, FL

Thanks for the thorough set of exposure tips.
“One more unto the breach. . . .”

Alafoto Loc: Montgomery, AL

Paul, do you process and print yourself, or send out?

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

Send it out. I've used the DarkRoom in the past. Now for 5+ years I've been with North Coast Photo in Carlsbad, CA. There's still 20+ places for mail order service. I've only glanced their various price lists to see how the pricing is. They all have a mix n match of who pays the postage, how much for developing, how much for scanning, what resolution for the JPEGs, etc. Because the postage is the same whether you send 1 roll or 10, I tend to store my shot rolls in the fridge until I get to about 10 and then get the processing, that's about 6-months at a time for some of the older rolls when I get them back.

Aloysius Loc: Tampa, FL

Bonnie at NCPS is the best—wish there were stores like that in FL.

Alafoto Loc: Montgomery, AL

Thanks for the response. We have a local "Pro Lab" here. Capitol Filmworks. The original owner who founded the business with his father was killed in an accident a few years ago and his wife and her son are running it now and the quality has slowly slipped into the mire. Since I haven't shot film since I closed my studio and finished the last couple of weddings on the books I've had no need for a lab, but I do have some negs that I'd like to get put on discs. I'll give your guys a try later on, the thought being that I'd do some landscapes on my RB and have them processed and scanned.

Aloysius Loc: Tampa, FL

North Coast does a great job with scanning negs and transparencies—highly recommended.

Alafoto Loc: Montgomery, AL

Thanks, appreciate the response.

elee950021 Loc: New York, NY

You will be OK for several years beyond the expiration date especially if you refrigerate the film. Read more about this below.

Back in the film days, when Ilford Photo of film and photographic paper fame was first introduced to the United States by independent photo reps. They represented and sold top brands to photo stores, labs and related businesses in need of cameras, equipment and photo supplies at wholesale. At a meeting with Ilford who had previously printed on their film boxes an expiration date of 7-8 years (under normal heat and storage conditions). They were told for marketing purposes and to increase sales, to reduce the expiration date to under 3 years to increase their volume! All the film OEMs including Kodak treated dating in the same manner! But color transparency film was a different story!

From 40 years of personal and photo business experience, I found this to be true. In my early photographic career when things, especially dollars were tight, my business purchased "short-dated" film and paper from several local businesses that handled government surplus. All turned out to be properly handled and stored and at 40% off.

Eventually with enough volume, my business bought wholesale directly from Kodak through their supply catalogs and reps (in NYC, there were 10 reps alone). When B&H first moved from Chambers Street in lower Manhattan to 17th Street and 6th Avenue, we bought less and less from Kodak because B&H was able to buy in huge quantities and got better than Kodak wholesale prices. And their store was only several hundred feet away across the
avenue from our business!

Be well! Ed

Aloysius Loc: Tampa, FL

Thanks for the thoughtful response. The film in question (expires in a few months) is now safely stored inside a sealed bag in my very cold(42degrees) refrigerator.

I commented earlier that I also have a cache of film that expired in 2015. Until 2012 it was refrigerated, & since then has been inside a sealed bag inside a dark closet in an air conditioned room. It’s a combo of slide, color negative, and B&W.

Since I have the color film processed & scanned at NCPS in CA, they opined that any color shifts due to age can be corrected in the scan process. Does that sound right?
As far as the B&W is concerned, would I simply overexpose the film to compensate for age?

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

You can get almost any color balance you want from color negative film, just like you can get almost any white balance you want from a raw digital file. A good lab will aim for neutral white balance in your digital scans if they supply JPEG or TIFF files.

Aloysius Loc: Tampa, FL

Thank you sir!

Hanson

Now how about some long expired photographic paper (B/W enlarging paper), developer and fixer. They are not frozen nor in the fridge in the past 30 years.

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

Try it. You'll probably find heat fog on the paper, and the developer may be very weak and lack contrast. Are they powder in pouches or cans, or concentrate in bottles?

Many of us use scanners or cameras to digitize our film, then adjust the images digitally and print them digitally as well.

elee950021 Loc: New York, NY

DOTS: Depends On The Situation! Maybe half a "stop" of additional exposure if there's a suspected loss of speed.
A test clip would be advisable if the film images are important. See below.

Depending on the age and speed of the film, at worst, it might take on a slight or even a heavy base fog especially if it's an aged roll 400 ISO or higher or to be developed in a high-energy developer. Back in the day, we might do a film clip, a 6-inch piece of film from the front of the roll in question and develop it normally and compare with a previously normally developed clip. If the clip showed some fog, we used some Edwal Anti-fog solution or Kodak's Anti-fog #1, a tablet that contained 0.45 grain (0.03 grams) of Benzotriazole.

Be well! Ed