JimH123 Loc: Morgan Hill, CA

If willing to use something other than Nikon, such as a Sony model, it is rather easy to have the UV-IR filter removed and a new one inserted that includes the 656nm wavelenghts.

I suggest Sony since I don't know how much experience is out there on modifying Nikon Z bodies. Maybe this is being done. But I haven't read about it anywhere.

I actually have two bodies I like to use for this. One is a Sony A6300 in which I had the CFA and UV-IR removed making it a mono full spectrum. I can then use whatever filter I want to use. I use a slide in filter holder which accepts 48mm filters. The other is an Olympus EM5ii which had just the UV-IR filter removed, but not the CFA. And I can pick the appropriate filter for this too. One filter that is useful is a UV-IR filter that includes the 656nm band giving it the same bandpass as the D810A.

I particularly like using the mono sensor A6300 in that I can pick a filter, and since there is no CFA, all pixels participate. There is a noticeable sensitivity improvement. Also, with capturing a tight wavelength, the sharpness is improved too. And there is no CA problem either.

BobHartung Loc: Bettendorf, IA

You always have "Live View"

JBRIII

Both Canon and Nikon have made cameras with allow more H-alpha thru. This in the red area and cameras see it fine, sensor wise, but it is blocked by the hotfilter as camera sensors are too senstive compared to the human eye with respect to red. This is the same filter removed for UV and IR conversions. Places like Kolari and Lifeline can do this on most any camera. Canon still makes the Ra (a for astro). The 20Da and 60Da are not longer made. My experience is that the makers make then for a time, then stop for years, then try again, market fills?, thus the big skippage between models. The Nikon got great reviews, costs I think $4500+. The Nikon was said to be unsuitable for normal photography, but a UV-IR blocking filter fixed the 60Da fine.

Something not mentioned, at least, I did not see it, is physically spacing between sensor and telescope to reach focus, I believe is it called backfocus? Not all systems can be put together even with adapters. I'm sure your scope maker could tell, they may even have a list. A piece of advice I got from a seller no less, is get a C-mount adaper for whatever camera(s) you have and start there.

I have read a lot, but done little, but suggest searching the web for astro photography and checking amazon for books. There are many ways this is done special astro (monochrome, color, video), with filter wheels, with DSLRs. A DSLR is probably easier and simplier to start and definitely cheaper if you have one or more, lock the mirror and use bulb mode to reduce vibrations. It can get really complicated, both physically and processing wise with flats, dark frames, multiple images to combine in multiple wavelenghts, etc., so reading up and starting simple seems wise at least for me.
Good luck;
Jim

JimH123 Loc: Morgan Hill, CA

JBRIII

I agree about the scope, just didn't know if camera can also be a problem.

A story, my grad advisor used one as a camera lens. He had a photo of a caterpillar on a leaf at night and perfectly lite. I congratualled him and he just laughted. Shot in bright data light, but something about the attachment was wrong.

Good luck;
Jim

dbrugger25 Loc: Raleigh, NC

The best astrophotography rigs have two telescopes and two cameras. One camera focuses on one star in the region you are photographing. With the star focused on a few pixels of the camera, it commands the tracking mount to keep that star on the same set oof pixels.

The other camera is the imaging camera. By precisely controlling the motions of the mount, long exposures can be taken with no apperant motion of the object being photographed. That system doesn't work on planets, the Sun or the Moon but they are bright enough to allow very short exposure times.

Remember that we are on a revolving planet that is also on an orbital path around the Sun. There is a smartphone app called Sky Safari Pro that is extremely informative and will use your Earth Coordinates to give you an accurate image of the sky from your location. The app comes in several versions. The highest level can control the movement of your mount and can even direct the mount to center your telescope or camera on any visible object in the sky. Sky Safari is available through your phone's app store. It isn't that expensive.

Architect1776 Loc: In my mind

Have you tried live view on your DSLR?

Sidwalkastronomy Loc: New Jersey Shore

Put that scope on a tracking mount for astrophotography not camera tripod. The celestron AVX would do it but astrophotography is very difficult and look into it before buying g anything. Drive mount, guiding scope, mirror lock up if you gave mirror, remote release. All help