Bear Canyon Wa State
I can't seem to get a good focus on leaves and pine tree needles in my nature pics. Shot at f22, 1/200, iso 400. Didn't have any support, so maybe it's just shaky on my part. I tried about 4 pics of the same place, and all are the same. Any help
or advice would be appreciated. I cropped this a little, and added
a small amount of sharpening to try to help, but didn't help! Also,
focal length was 22mm.
Bear canyon--Naches, Wa.
If your camera was in auto-focus, you could be focusing closer than you think.
Also, if you want us to see the actual photo, you'll have to click (store original) so we can see it blown up.
Nice photo composition but maybe those bushes right to the right are affecting your focus.
Sarge69
You could be right Sarge---The red bush on the right might be the culprit. I should have used manual focus maybe. Thanks for the help.....Jim
It sure is a nice enough photo, Pathfinder, but Sarge is right: for us to view and evaluate properly we need to be able to view it larger. Try posting it again on this thread but check the "Store Original" box before clicking "Send".
Right on---should have done this to begin with.
Bear canyon--Naches, Wa.
Also, f/22 is not good for sharpness as you are in diffraction territory. Try at an aperture of say f/8 or f/11
Wickspics
Loc: Detroits Northwest Side. Cody High School.
Like the photo and agree with the guys here but have my own thought. If you don't have a tri-pod; I use the door on my car. ( Shut Off engine, camera shakes ) Open door and use top of door to keep you stable. When riding a motorcycle it's even easier, position bike and use seat for tri-pod. just stuff I do;
Lots of cameras have focus indicators, either in the viewfinder and/or on the LCD screen. Depending on your camera, press the shutter release halfway, wait for the camera to focus and look for green squares (for example), and that will tell you on what your camera has focused. If your camera has this feature check the point of focus before finishing the shot. If the camera has focused on something other than your target you will need to try again, or perhaps change the focus point in the camera's menu. Many people select "Spot" focus instead of a "matrix" to finetune the focus point.
mdeman
Loc: Damascus, Maryland
I don't find anything total sharp. Either the aperture is too fine or you've got some vibration. 1/200 should have been fast enough for that lens. Doesn't look like normal motion blur, so I'd go with diffraction error.
FilmFanatic wrote:
Also, f/22 is not good for sharpness as you are in diffraction territory. Try at an aperture of say f/8 or f/11
You know, I read about the diffraction problem quite a while ago, and really never gave it much thought. But I think that this may just be the problem. I'll go back up this morning, and try the
same exact pic, only shoot it at F/11.....Thanks, all the way from
New Zealand & FilmFanatic! Isn't the world shrinking at an alarming pace? I'll post the new pic right away. By the way, what good is f/22 for?
sarge69 wrote:
If your camera was in auto-focus, you could be focusing closer than you think.
Also, if you want us to see the actual photo, you'll have to click (store original) so we can see it blown up.
Nice photo composition but maybe those bushes right to the right are affecting your focus.
Sarge69
Beautiful photo - amazing colors! I think Sarge is right; the red bush to the right appears to be very sharply focused.
I agree that 1/200 should have taken care of any camera shake in this shot. But one trick you might want to use when shoting at a slower speed is to use burst mode.. Taking several shots very fast should give you one that isn't blurred.
Tom Hudson
Manual focus is not the answer. Using a single point focus is what you need. I don't think you will ever get all of this foliage in focus because of the distance separating each subject. If this were me I'd focus use singe point focus on several subjects i.e. the close bush, a mid distance tree and so on. I'd also experiment with f/stop selection. Some lenses aren't very sharp at f22 some are. If your's isn't, then f11 to f8 may be better. A lens with IS or VR is helpful and finding something to steady the camera on as mentioned is also a good idea.
I feel as most of us do that your problem is focus. There may be other possibilities but when a subject has depth, either focus or depth of field are the most likely culprits. Automatic settings work fantastic 50% of the time, ok 25% of the time and cause issues the rest of the time. Most scenics don't require real small aperatures (high f numbers). Manual focus will work fine. Auto focus set on spot with the focus lock on will also work just as good. Just remember the relationship between your focal point and depth of field is approximately 1/3 into your subject.
Here's a new pic taken about 10 AM this morning. Notice the snow is melted off the far peak. Shot at f/8 @1/800sec. Looks a lot better to me. What think thee?
New Bear canyon pic.reduced file size
If you want to reply, then
register here. Registration is free and your account is created instantly, so you can post right away.