jackm1943 Loc: Omaha, Nebraska

I just purchased this...
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002782567460.html?src=google&src=google&albch=rmkt&acnt=576-373-4425&albcp=11070649823&albag=107255372623&slnk=&trgt=aud-996274596607&plac=thehill.com&crea=547793342153&netw=d&device=c&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_rmkt&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3tn7xrSL9AIVCTIBCh2o0AuYEAEYASACEgK0rPD_BwE&aff_fcid=6959a96d6ed74734809358769a556426-1636465471444-06853-UneMJZVf&aff_fsk=UneMJZVf&aff_platform=aaf&sk=UneMJZVf&aff_trace_key=6959a96d6ed74734809358769a556426-1636465471444-06853-UneMJZVf&terminal_id=07f3a327cc3745fe8807cf9e24d12989
It's a 10X AmScope microscope objective fixed to a Canon adapter of some sort. I have extension tubes, an inexpensive bellows, a good manual rail, and decent lighting. Is there anything else I need or need to know for this thing to work on my 6D2? It's supposed to arrive in January.
Thanks, JackM

leftj Loc: Texas

Wow! I would think you would do your research before ordering it.

jackm1943 Loc: Omaha, Nebraska

It's only 30 bucks. I remember reading somewhere that lenses of this type work best at a certain distance from the sensor but I was unable to find anything to confirm that. That's why I'm asking here.

ecobin Loc: Paoli, PA

10x will require rock steady shots and dof will be a few microns. Unless you have an automated rail you won’t be able to do stacks. Even experienced macro photographers don’t use 10x until they have mastered 5x.
Gary will likely weigh in and hopefully help you.

jackm1943 Loc: Omaha, Nebraska

Thanks Elliot. I do have a large heavy tripod and a good manual rail that will allow 0.01 mm movements, but no automated rail (yet). In any event, I hope to have fun trying and at least to get my 30 bucks worth. 😃
JackM

JBRIII

Appears they sell a 4x objective if you need to start lower as some suggest, $12. They also sell it in a kit of four which goes to 100x.

jackm1943 Loc: Omaha, Nebraska

Thanks JBR. I noticed that and probably should have ordered one at the same time. I already have a 4-4.5X lens that works fairly well but the AmScope lens may be better, I don't know, but for 12 bucks why not.
JackM

naturepics43 Loc: Hocking Co. Ohio - USA

Two things I would like to mention. First, after reading the description on the link you provided, it appears to me that you will only get the adapter. Scroll down on the page to "Packing List". Second thing, You will get quicker delivery on Amscope products if ordered from their site. As to the extension needed, it should be either 160mm or 200mm from sensor to the front of the adapter. Hope this helps.

sippyjug104 Loc: Missouri

jackm1943, the AmScope microscope objectives are well respected and they are a real price point bargain.

The illustration on the link you provided is misleading in that this microscope objective is a "finite" objective that requires being mounted 160mm from the "tip" of the objective to the sensor plane of the camera. It does not mount directly to the camera as shown in the picture.

According to the picture of the link, this 10X objective has an "NA" (numerical aperture) of 0.25 which equates to a depth of field of 0.0087 mm (8.7 microns). IF...I had a hair on my head, it would be between 30 to 50 microns to put this in perspective.

I have this AmScope 10X objective along with the 4X which has a NA 0.10 which has a depth of field of 0.055 (55-microns). They are both achromatic and they make good focus stacking lenses and I've used them on both DSLR and mirrorless cameras. If you are using a DSLR, I strongly recommend that you tether your camera to a PC so that you can watch the areas of focus in the live view. Digicam is a free program that allow you to control all of the aspects of your camera via a PC and it is what I used when I focus stacked with the Nikon D810. It also works with Canon and it is truly, "the cat's meow". Here's the link...did I mention that it is FREE..!!

http://digicamcontrol.com/download

Now...here's something to think about. I know that you have seen pictures of people using a microscope before and perhaps you have used one yourself. Well...think about how close the tip of the microscope objective is to the glass slide being looked at. It's pretty darn close and so will it be when mounted on your camera for the camera will for all purposes be the 'microscope'. There is nothing wrong with this for the movement of the camera toward the subject will be measured in microns, even when taking hundreds of images in the stack it will appear that the camera is not moving forward at all.

Where the magic comes to play is getting diffused light on the subject that is so close to the tip of the microscope objective. I've attached a picture of how I use my AmScope microscope objectives for microphotography. I use translucent plastic drink cups, ping-pong balls, and vellum tracing paper in addition to just about anything that will diffuse light in my pursuit of diffused lighting. - Enjoy the adventure, Sippy

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jackm1943 Loc: Omaha, Nebraska

According to the receipt there are three pieces, one of which is a screw mount adapter which I will have no use for. Thanks for the 160/200 mm info, that's what I was looking for. I have a bellows extension so hopefully can manage that. Will have good fun for $30 at the least. 😊
JackM

jackm1943 Loc: Omaha, Nebraska

Thanks for all the information and recommendations Sippy. Don't know how far I'll get with this but it will be fun trying. I assume that Digicam Control works like the Canon tether program by refocusing the lens, not by moving the camera. Since this thing I'm buying has no focus adjustment, I'm not sure how the Digicam could work. I do have a fairly decent rail that will do 0.01 mm increments, I'll have to see if that is fine enough. I do have a $300 Amazon gift certificate burning a hole in my pocket, I might have to use it on a starter motorized rail.
JackM

naturepics43 Loc: Hocking Co. Ohio - USA

That you will. $30 for many hours of fun can't be beat. Enjoy your new "toys".

sippyjug104 Loc: Missouri

The Digicam program does not move the camera. It does put a large live view on your PC screen and it allows you to control all of the camera functions...and...it acts as a remote shutter release. I cannot speak more highly of it and, did I mention that it is "Free"?. It is not nag-ware and it will be of great value for you can adjust all of the camera settings via the PC without touching the camera other than adjusting your macro focus rail.

This is a common ground cricket's rear leg claw taken with the 10X AmScope microscope objective to give you an idea of what you will be able to do when you get yours.

Now...for a digital motorized focus rail, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND the WeMacro. I've had mine so a few years now and it is a true workhorse and a great bang for the buck. https://www.wemacro.com/?product=wemacro-rail

It sells for $299 and William of WeMacro is a super guy and he will answer any question you may have as well as provide any support that you may need. It is a commonly used motorized rail among micro photographers. I started out with manual-operated rails and it didn't take me long to realize that digital motorized rails were the way to go for consistent movement shot after shot. The entire process of moving, stop, shoot, move, stop shoot is all automated with the WeMacro rail and its software. Here's what my rig looks like.

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jackm1943 Loc: Omaha, Nebraska

Thanks again Sippy. I will definitely look into Digicam and WeMacro. If things work out well I will probably want to upgrade my bellows also, the inexpensive one I have may not be sturdy enough for this type of work.
JackM

sippyjug104 Loc: Missouri

Jackm1943, I use a really old Nikon F bellows and really old Novoflex bellows. The bellows are just a means of extending the objective (or a lens) to the desired or required distance to produce the magnification. The same can be done with extension tubes although they are not as "adjustable". Any bellows that you can adapt to your camera will work as long as there are no tears or pinholes in the bellow material. The bellows itself is mostly a "set it and forget it" part of the setup. Again, any means or method that you can use to get the tip of the microscope objective to be 160mm from the sensor of the camera is all that is required.

Now, for some real fun and a lot more working distance between the end of the lens and the subject, use an old enlarger lens. Not only are they razor-sharp corner to corner, but they are also variable in the amount of magnification that they produce. Retracting or extending the bellows changes the resulting magnification. My go-to enlarger lenses are a 50mm f/2.8 and a 28mm f/4 and they compliment my arrangements with the 4X and 10X microscope objectives and my other macro lenses that I play with.

This is my 50mm enlarger lens that I have mounted on extension tubes and a picture of how I use it with translucent plastic drink cups (two of them stacked inside each other with a piece of tracing paper between them)

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