lmTrying Loc: WV Northern Panhandle

On Tuesday, Alps1962 asked the question, "What's a good tripod?" I have read and re-read the entire thread. And just like many other threads, the majority indicate that a Ball Head is the thing to have. My question is, Why?

Now I totally understand the advantage, concept and functioning of a Wimberly head, even on a monopod, for it's balanced movement and ability to stay put on any position.

And, having one, I can understand the advantage and operation of a 3-way head.

But it confounds me how it is an advantage to loosen a ball head, by any means, and have it move every direction not wanted. Seems to me that making a panorama shot would be near impossible with a Ball Head.

What am I missing? What do I not understand about the magic of a Ball Head? And which is better, pistol grip or twist lock? Which is better, low Ball or high Ball?

I would like to know. And I imagine that there are a lot others who would like to know.

BassmanBruce Loc: Middle of the Mitten

Well I can only speak for myself, but a ballhead is fast, accurate, versatile and safe at framing almost any shot.
For me it is the go to set up for anything not at the tele end of of shooting.
Fwiw, I use a RRS BH40.
Edit: I almost never go out shooting without one.

davidrb Loc: Half way there on the 45th Parallel

You seem to be missing the point. A ball-head is simply a tool used in the making of photographic images. It has specific functions and uses the operator can apply in his/her efforts. There are many different types of heads and the ball type is just one. If it doesn't fit your needs move on to one that will. Check the cataloge for Manfrotto, they make many different types including geared heads for precision movement. All these heads allow the photographer to connect their rig to a stationary mount. There are many, many different ways to do that.

wide2tele Loc: Australia

I could suggest why people may recommend a ball head but I don't want to spend the rest of my weekend defending myself against the angry replies.

Depends what you shoot ultimately but for a general purpose head, the 3-way is the better option imo.

Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States

Key operator: it depends on how you shoot.
(and what <lens> you shoot with)
(I prefer a three-way also. Have a ball head, I don't use it.)

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

I would like to dispel a myth. The following were done with an Arca Swiss Z1 ball head:

_DSC1933-NIKON D800-3064517-(25-10-17)-Pano by Gene Lugo, on Flickr

_DSC2196-NIKON D800-3064517-(03-11-17)-Pano-Edit by Gene Lugo, on Flickr

_DSC2139-NIKON D800-3064517-(01-11-17)-Pano-Edit by Gene Lugo, on Flickr

_DSC9742-Pano by Gene Lugo, on Flickr

_DSC7858-Pano-Edit by Gene Lugo, on Flickr

It is easy enough to do. Level the tripod with a reliable bubble level, then use the azimuth feature in the camera to level the camera on the ball head. From that point forward, leveling the camera will automatically level the camera if you don't change the vertical angle of the camera.

I can't think of a support system that allows the freedom of movement of a ball head yet allows the camera, as you put it, to provide "balanced movement and ability to stay put on any position". My ball head is super rigid when locked down, but I rarely use it that way. I prefer to take advantage of the "sweet spot" - where you fine tune the drag on the ball, allowing movement when pushed but remaining in place when you take your hands away. With the right length rail a camera can be balanced. A gimbal is no different - it requires a long rail to balance the camera. However, I can balance a 24mm lens and a 600mm lens. It may not be immediately apparent, but the 600mm lens is easy on a ball head - the dovetail is in line with the lens axis and attached to the lens using a tripod collar. But the 24mm lens has no collar, and would rely on a tripod plate or L bracket to attach to the head - and that plate is usually 90° off the lens axis. Yes, there are some plates that are square, allowing inline or right angled attachment, but these are less desirable than the longer plates or L brackets.

It is important to understand that not all ball heads are created equally. Cheap ball heads have notoriously small "sweet spots", can have rough movement, or as in the case of ball heads with really small balls or pistol-grip style heads - incapable of being locked in such a way as to prevent the camera from moving at all - without the risk of tightening the friction on the ball to the point of stripping something.

Here is a video where I mounted a D810 and a Sigma 150-600 on a Sirui K30X ball head, adjusted the friction, and adjusted the camera position with a single hand, illustrating the proper drag setting to best take advantage of the sweet spot.

Nowadays I use a DIY zero parallax pano head for stitched panoramas - an essential tool for close quarter panos like real estate or architectural. I also alternated between a gimbal and my Z1 ball head - when shooting with my 600mm F4.

Attached file:
(Download)


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(Download)

ecurb Loc: Metro Chicago Area

You either love ball heads or hate them. I hate them. I'd take a pan/tilt or fluid head any day.

lmTrying Loc: WV Northern Panhandle

First, let me say these are all beautiful images you posted.
I'm not real sure what you are trying to show me, unless these are all stitched pano images.
I guess the main point that I have missed about Ball Heads is the drag feature that has to be adjusted, for the camera rig in use, to hold everything in place but allows movement when pushed, pulled, or nudged. I have been under the impression that the Ball was either locked or flopping. Now it makes more sense. I can understand how a well made (more expensive) large diameter Ball Head will out perform a less expensive small diameter unit.
I still don't understand how a Ball Head can be say, swung left or right without the vertical changing also. I know that a 3-way head can be moved in one plane without effecting another plane of movement. I guess I need someone to show me a Ball Head in action.
Thank you for your response. I am beginning to understand.

lmTrying Loc: WV Northern Panhandle

Right now, I am with you.

lmTrying Loc: WV Northern Panhandle

Aww, but I do understand that a Ball head is just a tool to attach the camera rig to the tripod be used. I know how a 3-way operates, and a gimbal. I did not understand the fine points of a Ball head until Gene talked about setting the drag and using a rail.

lmTrying Loc: WV Northern Panhandle

For now, I agree with your opinion. I guess it's the mechanical part of my brain over riding.

lmTrying Loc: WV Northern Panhandle

Yea, I don't really want to buy something that will just sit if I don't like it. A cheap one would just tick me off. 😒 An expensive one that would not do what I want would REALLY tick me off.😬

Orphoto Loc: Oregon

Another vote for a beefy, strong ball head. For landscape work they allow you to quickly move and change.

Most larger ball heads feature a panorama base, a separate screw control that allows only pivoting sideways. Assuming your legs are level, panos are a breeze.

I'm right handed. By grasping the ball with left hand I can make minute adjustments and then easily lock it all down. 30 years experience says pan/tilt is a lot more work.

And for goodness sake, look at the arca/swiss quick release system.

jim quist Loc: Missouri

A ball head isn't going to slip on you, it will hold your camera where you angle it.

wide2tele Loc: Australia

If after this thread you buy a ball head, please come back and let me know what you think about it even if by PM. I would be fascinated.