Photos of welders
Oct 20, 2012 18:00:59 #
I am working on a project for a junior college and trade school. I need to shoot in the welding department but I'm worried about the digital sensor. This will involve very intense UV rays as anyone who has worked in that environment knows. Just wondering if anyone has dealt with this. I did the same work years ago with film and had some good shots. I'm just trying to make sure my camera is OK. Me? What the hell. I've had enough UV at high altitudes and at the beach that I'm probably well done anyways. :roll: :lol: :thumbup:
Oct 20, 2012 18:11:47 #
pounder35 wrote:
I am working on a project for a junior college and... (show quote)
I worked on a video several years ago on a new welding process for a research lab, using tube cameras (pre-digital) that were highly susceptible to burning (much like a retina) a spot. We positioned the bright flare to be shielded by either the welder or the piece being welded. That's what I would recommend.
Oct 20, 2012 18:24:54 #
LoneRangeFinder wrote:
quote=pounder35 I am working on a project for a j... (show quote)
Makes sense. Let the welders body block the main source and still capture some of the arcs coming off the metals. Just got to keeping from burning my eyes up. I can always buy a new camera. Eyeballs are very expensive even on ebay. :roll: :lol: I've done welding and have the equipment to keep me safe but I was worried about the cameras. :thumbup:
Oct 21, 2012 06:42:20 #
Hi pounder,what type of welding is it ? mig welding ordinary glasses can stop a flash .Tig welding braizing no sparks,electric arc( ac) lots of sparks have you thought about using a filter cokin ,hunter Or an actual welding lens they are actually graded similar to filters because as the years go by the welders eyes would become weakened so they could not see through the darkest lens .I wouldnt worry about a flash today they use cream years ago 2 days in a darken room with tea bags on your eyes!
Oct 21, 2012 07:38:22 #
lighthouse
Loc: No Fixed Abode
I'd be worried about 2 things first.
The sensor, do you have some ND filters? A 10 stop?
That should protect the sensor.
Then I'b be concerned about the 10 stop and the front piece of glass on the lens.
Does the trade dept there have a piece of clear 2mm acrylic or perspex sheet to shoot through? It could let you get way closer without worrying about being burned.
Next I'd worry about my eyes (and I'd think sh!t, I should have thought of them first) - use live view and don't look directly at the welding area while the boys have a hot stick.
Hope this helps a little.
The sensor, do you have some ND filters? A 10 stop?
That should protect the sensor.
Then I'b be concerned about the 10 stop and the front piece of glass on the lens.
Does the trade dept there have a piece of clear 2mm acrylic or perspex sheet to shoot through? It could let you get way closer without worrying about being burned.
Next I'd worry about my eyes (and I'd think sh!t, I should have thought of them first) - use live view and don't look directly at the welding area while the boys have a hot stick.
Hope this helps a little.
Oct 21, 2012 09:33:21 #
big d wrote:
Hi pounder,what type of welding is it ? mig weldin... (show quote)
It'll be "stick" welding. I have a welding helmet with a flip up lens. I think what I'll do is set up on a tripod and let the camera trigger on the self timer. I've got a couple of guys I know in the welding class and they willhelp out. Just need a couple of shots in each department for publication. I know how to protect my eyes I just wasn't sure how a digital sensor would hold up. I guess I'll find out. :roll: :lol:
Oct 21, 2012 09:39:44 #
lighthouse wrote:
I'd be worried about 2 things first. br The sensor... (show quote)
:thumbup: I'll use a tripod and small zoom to be far enough away to not have to worry about any damage to the lens. Might throw on a UV filter just for the heck of it. I normally don't use them. Pre-focus and let her rip. If the sensor doesn't survive I'm looking at a new body anyways and it'll give me excuse to buy it. :lol:
Oct 21, 2012 09:59:06 #
Just get a regular welding hood lens, and tape it securely over your camera lens. Maybe a lighter colored one, but not too light. The camera will be able to see the welding going on, and for a little distance away where it is still bright. You won't be able to see anything while no welding is going on though. That's what I did while photographing an eclipse because I was worried about the direct sun on my sensor over that much time, and it worked like a charm. Camera is still perfect. Any welding hood lens that will protect your eyes, should protect your sensor just the same...
Oct 21, 2012 10:48:00 #
achammar wrote:
Just get a regular welding hood lens, and tape it ... (show quote)
I had thought of that but thought it would be overkill. I have a #12 lens from my welding helmet that I replaced with a #9. I don't think it's big enough to cover the front of the lens I'll be using but might try it. I've got a few weeks to get it right and experiment. Thanks! :thumbup:
Oct 21, 2012 11:39:28 #
Send a PM to Silvertone. He has done some great shots of welding. It's been a recurrent theme in his work.
Oct 21, 2012 12:07:01 #
RMM wrote:
Send a PM to Silvertone. He has done some great shots of welding. It's been a recurrent theme in his work.
Thanks! I'll try that. :thumbup:
Oct 21, 2012 12:16:12 #
remember the story, its not about the flame/arc its about the people and the work they are doing. Sell the sizzle not the steak. I am sure you will discover many moments to capture the subjects, wishing you a successful assignment.
Oct 21, 2012 12:44:41 #
pounder35 wrote:
I am working on a project for a junior college and... (show quote)
You will be fine as long as you don't do a mirror lockup and aim directly at the welding while close up. If you want to record close up welding you need to put welding glass in front of the lens.
Oct 21, 2012 16:04:05 #
jeep_daddy wrote:
quote=pounder35 I am working on a project for a j... (show quote)
I intend to shoot from a slight distance with most likely a 75-300. Short exposure and try to capture the person in a semi- silhouette. Is that even a word. :roll:
Oct 21, 2012 18:18:05 #
Every camera has a UV/HotMirror (IR) filter built in.
http://www.kolarivision.com/hotmirror.html
Adding one UV on the end of the lens. Please see:http://photo.net/equipment/filters/
Interesting are the comments regarding name brand and off brand filters looking like the same transmission curves. But back to the case at hand, protecting the camera sensor. If you add one, UV is about 50% cut below 375nm.. curve drops quickly to lesser transmission. Lets say you put two filters on, little visual blocking will occur, however below 375nm 50% of 50% will be transmitted or 25% and as the shift is more toward UV (lower nm #) the transmission will be cut off drastically... of course it depends on the filter... the article mentions greater UV adsorption with warming filters. Give it a read.. Science is not a thing of opinion rather of fact... given a choice... go with the facts...
http://www.kolarivision.com/hotmirror.html
Adding one UV on the end of the lens. Please see:http://photo.net/equipment/filters/
Interesting are the comments regarding name brand and off brand filters looking like the same transmission curves. But back to the case at hand, protecting the camera sensor. If you add one, UV is about 50% cut below 375nm.. curve drops quickly to lesser transmission. Lets say you put two filters on, little visual blocking will occur, however below 375nm 50% of 50% will be transmitted or 25% and as the shift is more toward UV (lower nm #) the transmission will be cut off drastically... of course it depends on the filter... the article mentions greater UV adsorption with warming filters. Give it a read.. Science is not a thing of opinion rather of fact... given a choice... go with the facts...
If you want to reply, then register here. Registration is free and your account is created instantly, so you can post right away.