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Nikon 28-300mm Lens
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Jul 14, 2021 08:18:14   #
Kmgw9v Loc: Miami, Florida
 
dmeyer wrote:
Not sure I could have pulled that off--impressed that you did 5x3 on a ball head! My second Manfrotto tripod didn't have a leveling bubble (odd, because the first one did), so I think that's where the challenge with pano's started, that and not using an L-bracket. I had never heard of a leveling bowl until I starting looking into the Acratech heads.

What I love seeing is your development of the RAW image into the final product! Something I have so often wanted to see on UHH is more of the before and after. When I was first learning to PP from RAW, I really had a hard time taking the process far enough. I felt the RAW was the reality and the drastic change to anything close to what I do now seemed garish in contrast to the original capture. I can appreciate why it's hard for a lot of people to change to RAW capture--trusting yourself to know when you have got it 'right' instead of letting the camera JPEG decide for you takes a leap of faith...not to mention a lot more time.

Stunning image!!!
Not sure I could have pulled that off--impressed t... (show quote)


Not to interfere, but every image needs some degree of post processing. Knowing when the image is right is the hard part—that involves experience and TALENT.

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Jul 14, 2021 08:29:49   #
dmeyer Loc: Marion, NC
 
Gene51 wrote:
Edge and corner sharpness is the 28-300's weakness, so no, a 36mp sensor is going to reveal that. The high resolution of the camera exceeds the resolution of the lens.


So is the weakness mitigated by all my DSLR's being only 24MP?

BTW, Gene, is there any accuracy to the 'Field Map' in Sharpness in the Measurements section of DXOMark? Are the results based on theory or testing, do you know?

This may blow up this post, but I took a look at Nikon's DX VRII 55-200mm f/4-5.6G ED for my D5300. It appears to be extremely sharp corner to corner even at 200mm @ f/8--destroys the 18-200mm VR at the same settings. I have seen some reviewers that use this particular model 55-200mm as the best lens available in the focal range for non-professional use. And the combo weight is practically featherweight compared to the 28-300mm on the D750. (If I carry two bodies, I would put the VR 24-85mm on the D750.) What the light weight backup wouldn't give me is the focal range once I leave the car and set out on foot, so, school's still out on that matter. But what are your thoughts on trusting the mapping in DXOMark?

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Jul 14, 2021 08:31:22   #
dmeyer Loc: Marion, NC
 
Kmgw9v wrote:
Not to interfere, but every image needs some degree of post processing. Knowing when the image is right is the hard part—that involves experience and TALENT.



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Jul 14, 2021 10:55:37   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
dmeyer wrote:
Not sure I could have pulled that off--impressed that you did 5x3 on a ball head! My second Manfrotto tripod didn't have a leveling bubble (odd, because the first one did), so I think that's where the challenge with pano's started, that and not using an L-bracket. I had never heard of a leveling bowl until I starting looking into the Acratech heads.

What I love seeing is your development of the RAW image into the final product! Something I have so often wanted to see on UHH is more of the before and after. When I was first learning to PP from RAW, I really had a hard time taking the process far enough. I felt the RAW was the reality and the drastic change to anything close to what I do now seemed garish in contrast to the original capture. I can appreciate why it's hard for a lot of people to change to RAW capture--trusting yourself to know when you have got it 'right' instead of letting the camera JPEG decide for you takes a leap of faith...not to mention a lot more time.

Stunning image!!!
Not sure I could have pulled that off--impressed t... (show quote)


Thanks!

I used a torpedo level (from construction) to level the top of the tripod. Then I turn on the level indicator (azimuth) in the camera. The whole setup takes less than 2 mins if you have a leveling base, and a little longer if you don't. I overlap about 50% with the horizontal (rows), and I just sight something that is at the edge and move the camera until it is in the middle and repeat. For the verticals I do the same thing, first overlapping the first row with the next, then repeating the same for each image in the row, and so on. Yes, an L bracket is pretty much essential, since I do my panos with the camera in portrait mode.

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Jul 14, 2021 11:01:38   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
dmeyer wrote:
So is the weakness mitigated by all my DSLR's being only 24MP?

BTW, Gene, is there any accuracy to the 'Field Map' in Sharpness in the Measurements section of DXOMark? Are the results based on theory or testing, do you know?

This may blow up this post, but I took a look at Nikon's DX VRII 55-200mm f/4-5.6G ED for my D5300. It appears to be extremely sharp corner to corner even at 200mm @ f/8--destroys the 18-200mm VR at the same settings. I have seen some reviewers that use this particular model 55-200mm as the best lens available in the focal range for non-professional use. And the combo weight is practically featherweight compared to the 28-300mm on the D750. (If I carry two bodies, I would put the VR 24-85mm on the D750.) What the light weight backup wouldn't give me is the focal range once I leave the car and set out on foot, so, school's still out on that matter. But what are your thoughts on trusting the mapping in DXOMark?
So is the weakness mitigated by all my DSLR's bein... (show quote)


What most who look at DXO Mark don't get at first is that it is probably the worst tool to compare one lens to another. The numbers in the results are not absolute. What they report is how a particular lens on a given camera does compared to a theoretically flawless lens. The genius in this approach is that you can save some $$ by not buying the most expensive and sharpest lens on the market for your camera if all of that benefit will never be realized due to sensor size and resolution. That's why the same lens will test differently on various bodies. It is a good metric to consider, but by no means the only one.

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Jul 14, 2021 11:34:43   #
dmeyer Loc: Marion, NC
 
Gene51 wrote:
What most who look at DXO Mark don't get at first is that it is probably the worst tool to compare one lens to another. The numbers in the results are not absolute. What they report is how a particular lens on a given camera does compared to a trallheoretically flawless lens. The genius in this approach is that you can save some $$ by not buying the most expensive and sharpest lens on the market for your camera if all of that benefit will never be realized due to sensor size and resolution. That's why the same lens will test differently on various bodies. It is a good metric to consider, but by no means the only one.
What most who look at DXO Mark don't get at first ... (show quote)


When looking at the Field Mapping, I am applying specific lenses to specific camera bodies. For instance, I compared the 28-300mm on the D750 to the 55-200mm on the D5300, at all f/stops but paying most attention to f/11 and f/8, respectively. (For me, a way to determine comfort vs versatility.) The sharpness is comparable, though I realize other factors like light transmission, distortion and fringing contribute to the overall lens score. Those lens aspects can mostly be managed in LR, the sharpness/detail not so much. (One thing that isn't a real problem in my world is weather sealing...I am just not in those situations unless I know ahead that I will be in a bad environment and take precautions...think Antelope Canyon.) With all this said, would it be safe to make decisions based on Mapping?

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Jul 14, 2021 11:35:27   #
dmeyer Loc: Marion, NC
 
Gene51 wrote:
Thanks!

I used a torpedo level (from construction) to level the top of the tripod. Then I turn on the level indicator (azimuth) in the camera. The whole setup takes less than 2 mins if you have a leveling base, and a little longer if you don't. I overlap about 50% with the horizontal (rows), and I just sight something that is at the edge and move the camera until it is in the middle and repeat. For the verticals I do the same thing, first overlapping the first row with the next, then repeating the same for each image in the row, and so on. Yes, an L bracket is pretty much essential, since I do my panos with the camera in portrait mode.
Thanks! br br I used a torpedo level (from constr... (show quote)



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Jul 14, 2021 14:28:05   #
VABob
 
A very nice image.

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