nicksr1125 Loc: Mesa, AZ

Can any of our experts who do focus stacking suggest a tutorial? I'm looking at getting a focus rail & potentially Helicon software.

Drbobcameraguy Loc: Eaton Ohio

Steve Perry has a great package on focus stacking for Nikon DSLR and mirrorless. From shooting to post processing. Not sure if that helps.

jscorbin Loc: Woodinville, WA

Here is the link. https://backcountrygallery.com/video-workshop-focus-shift-shooting-nikon/

Although examples are with Nikon equipment, much of the video applies to other cameras as well. The cost is well worth it.

Harry0 Loc: Gardena, Cal

My quicky ...
Start up youtube, search for "focus stacking affinity photo"

TonyReynolds Loc: Granville, OH

You definitely want Helicon and Helicon remote. The remote version does the rail function via the software. There's several tutorials out there showing how to use and what it does. Much better than trying to do it with PS.

nicksr1125 Loc: Mesa, AZ

I would consider Helicon except that I'm shooting a Sony A7RIII. The Helicon Remote & FB Tube are only available for Nikon & Canon. Zerene Stacker has been recommended. I've picked out a focusing rail at B&H. Just have to save a few more pennies & I'll pull the trigger.

lamiaceae Loc: San Luis Obispo County, CA

I would have a similar issue, I shoot Pentax. But I manually do the mechanical camera/lens part of the stack with a focus rail or just refocus the lens many times on a tripod, and process the image files with Ps. Another specialty stacking program like Zerene might work better - I have not tried one. But unless I were doing macro stacks nearly daily the cost of an entire system would not be feasible. And for me, my stacks are essentially close-ups and not macros as the subjects are far larger than the sensor format.

fetzler Loc: North West PA

There are several ways to do focus bracketing and the best way to do depends on the image magnification.

If you are shooting landscapes you can adjust the focus manually is suitable steps. Usually 2-4 exposures are required.

If you are shooting with a macro lens then having a program adjust the focus of the lens using the focus motor is good to 1:1 magnification. Helicon remote does this but not for your camera.

Beginning with 1:1 magnification using an automatic rail like WeMacro Rail is the way to go. Raynox lenses offer a good way to achieve magnifications > 1:1 with your macro lens. Focus motor adjustments will be unsatisfactory at these magnifications.


I have Nikon and Olympus cameras. For macro work I prefer the Olympus cameras. Olympus cameras have built in
"focus bracketing" and "focus stacking". The former is more useful as it is more flexible but requires software like Helicon to do the stacking. Collection of the images only requires 1 press of the shutter button. Focus bracketing works well from landscapes to 1:1 magnification. Again a rail is necessary for greater magnifications and a automatic one will keep you sane.

Read your SONY manual to see if focus bracketing is available. It takes a hard read of many manuals to determine which cameras are best for certain tasks.

1grumpybear

I have a COGNISYS for sale. Live in Tempe, Arizona. Used it once ended up buying a Nikon D850. If you like we can meet at Tempe Camera and you can check it out.

1grumpybear

I have use Helicon Focus 7 and has worked well for me.

bwana Loc: Bergen, Alberta, Canada

I use Zerene Stacker and Affinity Photo for focus stacking work; both work well.

bwa

sippyjug104 Loc: Missouri

I stage a focus stacking session nearly every day using a variety of gear at various degrees of magnification up to 10X.

YouTube is rich with focus stacking tutorials and there several ways to accomplish taking the stack of images. One is a manual focus rail (a low profile screw driven one works best), a digital motorized focus rail for the most consistent ultra small increments of advancing the camera, and focus shifting of the camera lens with the camera's built in focus shift ability and autofocus lens or Helicon's focus tube for compatible camera and lens.

Don't underestimate the necessity to have a rock-solid vibration free base for mounting focus rail and never ever touch the camera when taking a shot and allow a second or two between shots. My tabletop setup is a 300+pound base isolated on the concrete basement floor and all processes are automated and I turn out the lights and leave the room for the session to run through its hundreds of shots in the stack.

Also, take a look at Zerene Stacker Pro focus stacking software. Rick Littlefield is the developer and he is an extreme macro photographer and technician here in the U.S. He supports his software whereas Helicon is an offshore written program and although customer support is good, it's not the same as having someone who is highly regarded in the field who created the program helping you with any questions. Here's the link:

https://zerenesystems.com/cms/home

DWU2 Loc: Phoenix Arizona area

There's a lot of Helicon tutorials on Youtube.

SteveHmeyer Loc: Cincinnati OH USA

Check Hejnar Photo for a focusing rail I have two and they are great and the price, while not cheap is fair and the quality is top notch.

www.hejnarphotostore.com

Attached is a photo of the rail I use. All stainless and machined aluminum, acra-swiss clamp with a scale on the knobs that indicates travel distance with rotation. If it fits your budget I highly recommend it. FYI - I am a customer of Hejnar and receive nothing for this recommendation. .


I use Zerene Stacker and find it fast, easy to use and get good results. The down side is that it does not support Raw files.

I do all my focus stacking manually. Of course if you are thinking of hundreds of frames automatic is a better choice.

All my FS is done outside with natural light I do nothing in studio. With the automatic rail there is just too much stuff to carry and set up on location.

Have fun with F-stacking it can be tedious but the rewards are great.

sippyjug104 Loc: Missouri

I thought that I would include a picture of my tabletop setup in addition to my previous reply to share my perspective of approaching focus stacking sessions. The platform is mounted on vibration isolators resting on and cemented to a 1-inch thick granite slab with isomode vibration pads under it, set on top of a 1-inch thick synthetic acid resistant granite laboratory cabinet isolated from the concrete basement floor.

The focus rail is a digital motorized WeMacro rail with a LeFoto manual screw drive focus rail for tuning distance of the camera. On top of that is a Novoflex bellows which has manual macro travel for fine tuning of focus distance.

The subject also has the ability to move forward and back, left and right and up and down before the camera. The subject is then mounted on a pin stuck into plasticine modeling clay stuck on to a 3/4-inch ball bearing that rotates with pitch and yaw to position the subject as desired before the camera. Illumination for the sessions is constant LED diffused in various manners based on the subjects needs of color, brightness and reflectiveness.

(Download)