Here’s the lens calibration chart from my last two cannons (I’ve been shooting Canon since 1968). As you can see, almost every lens benefitted from correction, and the majority of these are L series glass.
Some folks may not want to get their lenses/body calibrated to as sharp as possible and that’s ok with me. There is a failsafe method to do this that is easy and only requires you to print out a target and follow instructions. It is called the dot tune method. Here is a link to an easy to follow video
Your camera must support calibration and must have a live view function. You need a decent tripod too In my canon 7D MKII microfocus calibration will allow you to adjust upper and lower end on a zoom. Or you can do one adjustment for a prime. I did a calibration today using my 7DMKII and 100-400L original series. I was doing this because I was unhappy for two years with this combination at 400mm It’s my bird setup. I had noticed that it was always a little off focus in general and attributed that to user error on my part. OMG. At 400 I had to go to +16 and at 100 to -8. It is extremely sharp now and I am pleased beyond compare. I’m going to do this next with my 6DMKII and 300 L f4 prime
The chart is very interesting because the only correction I ever had to make (as I mentioned) was the 100-400 II mounted on a 5D III. Thanks for posting. WJH
The chart is very interesting because the only correction I ever had to make (as I mentioned) was the 100-400 II mounted on a 5D III. Thanks for posting. WJH
Yep, it really matters on long teles, and in my experience adding a TC (which adds another set of tolerances to the stack up) can change things substantially. What I should have added was a column for max acuity and the aperture it occurs at since my cal application (FoCal) also provides acuity vs aperture. Hint: it isn’t always 2 stops down from wide open.