ABJanes Loc: Jersey Boy now Virginia

I have a Nikon D7100 with the 18-140MM f/3.5-5.6 kit lens. I love the close ups I get while shooting at 140MM f/5.6 (close distances) but was thinking it would be fun to clip on this diopter lens on occasion. From what I read in your Macro Section this would be my best choice due to the shallow DoF of the dcr 250 lens. The calculators confuse me, any idea what the magnification ratio would be on this combination? 140MM + the Raynox dcr 150. Sorry for being such a dumb "azz"
I do have the Kenko (3) piece extension tubes but they are not quick to install and uninstall when out and about with random shoots or traveling. Slow to commit on the Sigma 105MM f/2.8 Macro fearing I won't use it enough but it sure gives me serious GAS.

Thanks so much!
Allyn "Bruce" Janes
"A Jersey Boy" living in VA

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kpmac Loc: Ragley, La

Nice images. Go for the macro lens. You'll love using a real macro lens.

Mark Sturtevant Loc: Grand Blanc, MI

The Raynox 150 magnifies by 1.5x, while the 250 does 2.5x. At least that is my what I had read somewhere.
I don't know how to figure your magnification with your lens either except by testing it with a ruler. Your camera has a 22.5mm wide sensor. So what you do is attach your Raynox to it, and look at a millimeter ruler at its closest focus. Carefully count the number of millimeters that you can see across the field of view, and then divide 22.5 by that #. The resulting value is a statement of how much magnification you have.

If you see 22.5 millimeters, then 22.5/22.5 =1, and you are getting 1 : 1 mag. This is 'true macro'.
If you see half of that (call it ~ 11 mm), then 22.5/11 ~ 2. And your magnification is about 2 : 1.

Here is a description of the same method, only with a full-frame sensor so they are using 36 mm not 22.5 mm. http://seeinginmacro.com/macro-photography-magnification-ratio-calculation/

Cwilson341 Loc: Central Florida

I can't really answer your questions but I love these photos. Very nice work.

Mark Sturtevant Loc: Grand Blanc, MI

This flow chart will help you in the decision about buying a macro lens.

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ABJanes Loc: Jersey Boy now Virginia

Very funny......thank you!

I have the money, I just hate to see it sitting in the bag gathering dust.

GAS is addictive and I need to "Measure 5 times cut once, not literally but rather analytically"

Mark Sturtevant Loc: Grand Blanc, MI

I understand. In truth, you can get a good macro lens for less. There are older model lenses that are still excellent, with many used copies out there. Most macro lenses focus out to infinity, and so are good for other things besides close up photography. A shorter focal length macro (50, 60mm) will work for most close up applications, cost less, and they will get a good boost in mag with extension tubes or with your Raynox. Meanwhile they are great as a wider angle prime lens for all sorts of other situations. A macro lens can be pretty versatile.

There is a rather bewildering array of manual macro lenses made by Chinese and Korean manufacturers. Fully manual, but optically they are excellent. There is Meike, Neewer, Venus/Laowa, Oshira, Opteka... and I'm probably forgetting a couple. Here is a random example: https://www.amazon.com/Aspherical-Telephoto-Portrait-Capability-Digital/dp/B076GXCQDS/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=meike+macro+lens+for+Nikon&qid=1621215468&sr=8-5

ABJanes Loc: Jersey Boy now Virginia

I am working on a Macro Presentation for my Williamsburg Photography Meetup with one of my associates and I have carved out Super/Extreme Macro for my studies. Pretty amazing what some creative photographers are doing to get closer and closer. Thanks this is helpful. One of our birders has taken some very interesting macro shots with her 200-600MM lens as well.

ABJanes Loc: Jersey Boy now Virginia

I am working on a Macro Presentation for my Williamsburg Photography Meetup with one of my associates and I have carved out Super/Extreme Macro for my studies. Pretty amazing what some creative photographers are doing to get closer and closer. Thanks this is helpful. One of our birders has taken some very interesting macro shots with her 200-600MM lens as well.

fetzler Loc: North West PA

If you want know what magnification that you can get with your lens with the Raynox 250 attached, set your lens to is closest focus, attach the raynox lens, photograph a millimeter ruler.

If you have a FF frame sensor the width of the sensor is 36mm. If your image shows the image width to be 36mm you have 1 x magnification. If the width of the image is 72mm then you have 0.5x. Adjust accordingly for other sensor sizes.

Macro lenses have excellent edge sharpness and almost no barrel or pincushion distortion. If you have a 3D subject you will likely not notice barrel or pincushion distortion of your lens. Zooms often have significant distortion that varies with focal length.

ABJanes Loc: Jersey Boy now Virginia

Hi Mark: I am trying the Raynox dcr 150 on my 18-140MM f/3.5-5.6 clipping it on. Is there anyway to eliminate the "looking through a telescope vignette"? Trying to show our club members other ways to put their toe in the water with less expensive macro alternatives i.e. diopter lens & extension tubes. Thanks, Bruce Janes

Mark Sturtevant Loc: Grand Blanc, MI

Very sorry for the late reply. I've been awol around here due to work.
I'm not sure how to eliminate vignetting with this lens + the R 150. But you can play around with the focal length to see what gives less vignetting. You've probably done that though. ...
It may be that you will need to either (a) crop (and actually a strong crop can still produce a decent picture. I often crop heavily), or (b) get the Raynox 250. There will be less vignetting, but I don't know if it will go away. Another solution is to (c) reverse the Raynox lens and see about adapting that to your lens. A reversed Raynox will give more power and like the R250 you will then be using more of the center of the main lens. So less vignetting plus more mag. To experiment with this option, hold the Raynox lens in reverse directly in front of your main lens. Work over a soft towel while you do this, please, and it would be good if the camera was steadied on a tripod. This should allow you to focus closer and so get more mag. But also less vignetting.
If that works, and you think it the way to go, they you can unscrew the Raynox from its surrounding clamp and look into getting a filter adapter that goes between your Raynox and the main lens.