BuzzyJames Loc: Western New York

Hi everyone this is my first post. I finally started to dig in to my LUMIX zs60. Manual mode, shooting in RAW, etc. I want to move up from a compact camera but still want good built in zoom( I don’t want to carry around a bunch of lenses). I’ve heard a lot of good things about the LUMIX fz300. Any comments on this camera? I know it still has a small sensor but cameras with one inch trade off on the zoom. I’ve come to realize everything with a camera is a trade off.

Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States

Welcome to the forum.

LXK0930 Loc: Souh Jersey

The Lumix FZ300 has a very good constant aperature f2.8 lens. It is also weather sealed. I was looking at it a while ago, but decided it was too big and heavy for me.
If this is not an issue, go for it. Also, the lighter FZ200 has similar features, but lacks weather sealing. Check reviews on both for details.

R.G. Loc: Scotland

If you can afford it, go for something with a bigger sensor. You may be able to find a second hand Sony RX10 mk3 (or higher) or a Lumix FZ1000 or FZ2000.

Don't worry about not having the full 720mm equivalent that your used to. The times when you'll miss that extra zoom will be very rare, plus a good camera gives you realistic (i.e. usable) cropping options.

ABJanes Loc: Jersey Boy now Virginia

To learn more about getting off of auto, I would suggest "Stunning Digital Photography" by Tony & Chelsea Northrup in print for <$20.00 with 17 hours of videos plus access to their website. You won't be sorry!

Notorious T.O.D. Loc: Harrisburg, North Carolina

Yes every camera is a set of compromises...

photoman43

Google Exposure Triangle. Or understanding Exposure Triangle. That way you will see the interrelationships among shutter speed, f stop and ISO. Then google depth of field to understand what happens when different f stops are set.

I shoot in Aperture priority 99.9% of the time.

Consider these as starters:

https://photographylife.com/what-is-exposure-triangle

https://photographylife.com/what-is-depth-of-field

PHRubin Loc: Nashville TN USA

If zoom is more important than the constant f/2.8 lens, you should consider the DC-FZ80. It has a better sensor (18 MP vs 12) and more than twice the zoom range (20-1200 vs 25-600). But the touchscreen isn't articulated. All for $100 LESS! You can compare it to the 300 here:
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/compare/Panasonic_DMC-FZ300_vs_Panasonic_DC-FZ80/BHitems/1188237-REG_1329682-REG

As you may already know, bridge cameras with 1/2.3" sensors have unbeatable zoom range.

Earnest Botello Loc: Hockley, Texas

Welcome to the Hog, James, enjoy.

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

Let's see, the fz300 has a 24X optical zoom equivalent to 25 to 600mm (on full frame), made possible by using a tiny little 1/2.3" image sensor. Lens is actually a 4.5mm to 108mm, so it's the tiny sensor's 5.6X "lens factor" that makes the zoom seem so powerful. Sensor is also only 12MP. But the camera is selling for under $400.

You don't mention what you shoot. That should be a major, determining factor what lens and sensor size would be best for you. If you shoot small wildlife and birds from a distance, you might want that 600mm-equivalent zoom. But if most of your shots are landscapes or portraits, you would have virtually no need for it and could opt for a larger, better sensor and a much less extreme zoom.

Yes, learn to shoot RAW and post-process your images. You can up your game by doing that, though there's a learning curve to get good at post-processing.

And if you are talking about getting out of the "super" Auto mode that many cameras provide, that too is a good thing. This is more than just an auto exposure mode. It automates a lot of things and is more of a "point n shoot" mode that leaves very few decisions to the photographer. In addition to the exposure mode, it also often dictates the way your AF system works, the type of file you can save (JPEGs only?), and various other camera settings. It leaves little control up to the user. It's more like using a camera phone than using a "real" camera!

But also don't be too enamored with "manual" exposure. Strictly manual exposure is great... when you can use it. But fully manual mode isn't always wise or even possible. There are times and places that the auto exposure modes shutter priority, aperture priority and manual with auto ISO are helpful or even necessary. For example, fully manual exposure can often be done and may even be desirable when shooting more sedentary and deliberate subjects such as scenics, still life or posed portraits. On the other hand, some form of auto exposure is often needed for sports, wildlife, candid portraits and other fast action photography. (And, yes, manual with auto ISO is an auto exposure mode. Don't be one of those people who keep their camera set to M + auto ISO and talk about "always shooting in manual mode".... cause that ain't what's being done!)

Learn to use the different exposure modes... not just manual. They all have their purposes. Program might be the least useful... at least it is for me. I also avoid using auto ISO with anything other than manual mode. I see no need for it in conjunction with the other auto exposure modes. Using it with them would make some sort of an "auto-auto" mode that might be unpredictable.

BuzzyJames Loc: Western New York

Thanks for all your replies! I used to wonder why people had more than one camera! The more I get into this, I'm starting to think I'm falling into a common trap ( better golf clubs will make me a better golfer, better guitar will make me a better player) you know how it is. The smart thing for me to do is to learn all I can from this camera. That will let me know what I'm lacking. I mostly takes pics of birds(hence zoom) and macro shots of flowers and insects. I still can't PP a RAW pic properly. My JPEGS straight out of the camera look better. The camera has the potential. Sometimes I luck out and get great shots (even in low light). A real photographer that knew what they were doing could probably take pics with this camera that would blow me away. I have to practice and improve to make a wise decision. That's the logical me. The other me wants the FZ1000 ii. A better camera will make me a better photographer!

jimmol

The FZ300 is an excellent camera. I've had one for 3 or 4 years now. It's not just a super-zoom, but a good all-around camera. It's weather-sealed, has a Leica lens (not all of the Panasonic cameras do), and it's F2.8 all the way out. What I find especially useful in bird photography is that it can double the effective focal length (to 1200 mm) for JPEG. For maximum range I add an Olympus C-180 teleconversion lens, which gives a total of 2000 mm effective focal length. Auto-focus still works well under these conditions.

I've found that I don't miss raw mode at all. The camera does an excellent job of white balancing, which is often touted as an advantage of raw. The only thing I miss using P mode is that raw provides more levels in deep shadows, but that is not where the interest usually lies in an image. P mode is more useful than aperture or shutter priority because it can manipulate both. I still use exposure compensation a lot, but that is easy to do in P mode.

Go for it.

LFingar Loc: Claverack, NY

Welcome to the Hog!
One of the easiest ways to move away from AUTO mode is to get at least a basic understanding of the exposure triangle and depth-of-field and then just experiment, experiment, experiment. You can do that anyplace, any time of day, in any weather. Try the various modes and see what you get. I consider Manual to be one of the easier modes to learn because you are more aware of what is being asked of the camera.
Have fun!

BuzzyJames Loc: Western New York

I don't understand what P mode is trying to achieve. To me it seems like an adjustable Auto mode. If so, why not just use aperture or shutter mode. I'm missing something.

Bob Mevis Loc: Plymouth, Indiana

welcome. it is all about practice and lots of it. there are countless tutorials on youtube. good luck.

Bob